Unlike most other voltage transformers for Japan, PowerBright transformers can be used as either a step up "booster" transformer or a step down "reducer" transformer. This means a PowerBright transformer will work whether you're bringing a North American 120 volt appliance to Japan, or bringing a 100 volt Japanese appliance to North America. Simply select the input voltage coming from the wall outlet via a jumper on the back of the unit, and plug your appliance into the outlet on the front of the unit which matches your appliance's required input voltage.

If you are bringing a U.S. or Canadian 110-120 volt appliance to Japan, you need a step up "booster" transformer. Step up transformers take the 100 volt electricity supplied by Japanese wall outlets, and convert the voltage up to 110-120 volts for use by the North American appliance. PowerBright transformers do that.

On the other hand, if you are bringing a 100 volt Japanese appliance to the U.S. or Canada where the voltage is 110-120 volts, you need a step down "reducer" transformer. Step down transformers take the 110-120 volt electricity supplied by American and Canadian wall outlets, and convert the voltage down to 100 volts for use by the Japanese appliance. The same PowerBright transformer will do that too.

But do I need a voltage transformer? Or would a plug adapter be enough?
Well, that depends on what you need to plug in. If your appliance's voltage matches the local voltage at your destination, then a plug adapter will do just fine all by itself. But if your appliance is not compatible with the local voltage, that's when a voltage transformer comes in. Voltage transformers actually change the local voltage to a voltage that's suitable for your appliance.

Wall outlets in Japan usually supply electricity at 100 volts AC. If you're plugging in an appliance that was built for 100 volt electrical input, or an appliance that is compatible with multiple voltages, then an adapter is all you need.

But plug adapters do not change voltage, so the electricity coming through the adapter will still be the same 100 volts the wall outlet is supplying. North American outlets supply electricity at between 110 and 120 volts. Consequently, North American appliances are generally built for 110-120 volts. But that doesn't mean that your specific appliance isn't already compatible with the Japanese voltage -- it may very well be. In fact, most chargers for modern smartphones/iPhones, tablets/iPads, laptops and digital cameras are already multi-voltage compatible. Check your charger for something to the effect of "Input: 100-240V" ... voila!

On the other hand, most "conventional appliances" like kitchen items, audio/video equipment, vacuum cleaners, lamps and lights, and most bath appliances are not compatible with multiple voltages, and need to have the voltage changed by way of a voltage transformer like this one. The only way to know for sure is to check the label, or the back of the manual, and determine the specific electrical input requirements for the specific device/appliance in question.

Is this transformer big enough to support my appliance?
The transformer you buy must be capable of supporting the amps and/or watts that your appliance needs in order to operate. If the transformer is too small, you will blow the fuse. The model VC1000J supports 1000 watts. So as long as your appliance is 1000 watts or less, this transformer should be fine.

The watts and/or amps that your appliance requires can be found on a label on the appliance (usually on the bottom or back) where the brand name and model number appear. If the appliance uses a charger or AC adapter, the information will appear on the charger. Look for something like this: "Input: 120V 60Hz 100W " The "W" number is the watts. For this model transformer, that "W" number should be 1000 or below.

Sometimes the label will show amps instead of watts. In that case the information would look something like: "Input: 120V 60Hz 10.0A " If the label lists amps, you can figure out a rough approximation of the watts by multiplying the amps by the volts (the "V" number). Example: 120 volts x 10.0 amps = 1200 watts. In this case, the VC1000J would not be big enough to support the appliance. You would need to buy a transformer with a higher wattage capacity. PowerBright manufactures transformers that support up to 3000 watts!

Unlike most other voltage transformers for Japan, PowerBright transformers can be used as either a step up "booster" transformer or a step down "reducer" transformer. This means a PowerBright transformer will work whether you're bringing a North American 120 volt appliance to Japan, or bringing a 100 volt Japanese appliance to North America. Simply select the input voltage coming from the wall outlet via a jumper on the back of the unit, and plug your appliance into the outlet on the front of the unit which matches your appliance's required input voltage.

If you are bringing a U.S. or Canadian 110-120 volt appliance to Japan, you need a step up "booster" transformer. Step up transformers take the 100 volt electricity supplied by Japanese wall outlets, and convert the voltage up to 110-120 volts for use by the North American appliance. PowerBright transformers do that.

On the other hand, if you are bringing a 100 volt Japanese appliance to the U.S. or Canada where the voltage is 110-120 volts, you need a step down "reducer" transformer. Step down transformers take the 110-120 volt electricity supplied by American and Canadian wall outlets, and convert the voltage down to 100 volts for use by the Japanese appliance. The same PowerBright transformer will do that too.

But do I need a voltage transformer? Or would a plug adapter be enough?
Well, that depends on what you need to plug in. If your appliance's voltage matches the local voltage at your destination, then a plug adapter will do just fine all by itself. But if your appliance is not compatible with the local voltage, that's when a voltage transformer comes in. Voltage transformers actually change the local voltage to a voltage that's suitable for your appliance.

Wall outlets in Japan usually supply electricity at 100 volts AC. If you're plugging in an appliance that was built for 100 volt electrical input, or an appliance that is compatible with multiple voltages, then an adapter is all you need.

But plug adapters do not change voltage, so the electricity coming through the adapter will still be the same 100 volts the wall outlet is supplying. North American outlets supply electricity at between 110 and 120 volts. Consequently, North American appliances are generally built for 110-120 volts. But that doesn't mean that your specific appliance isn't already compatible with the Japanese voltage -- it may very well be. In fact, most chargers for modern smartphones/iPhones, tablets/iPads, laptops and digital cameras are already multi-voltage compatible. Check your charger for something to the effect of "Input: 100-240V" ... voila!

On the other hand, most "conventional appliances" like kitchen items, audio/video equipment, vacuum cleaners, lamps and lights, and most bath appliances are not compatible with multiple voltages, and need to have the voltage changed by way of a voltage transformer like this one. The only way to know for sure is to check the label, or the back of the manual, and determine the specific electrical input requirements for the specific device/appliance in question.

Is this transformer big enough to support my appliance?
The transformer you buy must be capable of supporting the amps and/or watts that your appliance needs in order to operate. If the transformer is too small, you will blow the fuse. The model VC3000J supports 3000 watts. So as long as your appliance is 3000 watts or less, this transformer should be fine.

The watts and/or amps that your appliance requires can be found on a label on the appliance (usually on the bottom or back) where the brand name and model number appear. If the appliance uses a charger or AC adapter, the information will appear on the charger. Look for something like this: "Input: 120V 60Hz 100W " The "W" number is the watts. For this model transformer, that "W" number should be 3000 or below.

Sometimes the label will show amps instead of watts. In that case the information would look something like: "Input: 120V 60Hz 10.0A " If the label lists amps, you can figure out a rough approximation of the watts by multiplying the amps by the volts (the "V" number). Example: 120 volts x 10.0 amps = 1200 watts. In this case, the VC3000J would in fact be big enough to support the appliance. PowerBright manufactures transformers that support up to 3000 watts!

Unlike most other voltage transformers for Japan, PowerBright transformers can be used as either a step up "booster" transformer or a step down "reducer" transformer. This means a PowerBright transformer will work whether you're bringing a North American 120 volt appliance to Japan, or bringing a 100 volt Japanese appliance to North America. Simply select the input voltage coming from the wall outlet via a jumper on the back of the unit, and plug your appliance into the outlet on the front of the unit which matches your appliance's required input voltage.

If you are bringing a U.S. or Canadian 110-120 volt appliance to Japan, you need a step up "booster" transformer. Step up transformers take the 100 volt electricity supplied by Japanese wall outlets, and convert the voltage up to 110-120 volts for use by the North American appliance. PowerBright transformers do that.

On the other hand, if you are bringing a 100 volt Japanese appliance to the U.S. or Canada where the voltage is 110-120 volts, you need a step down "reducer" transformer. Step down transformers take the 110-120 volt electricity supplied by American and Canadian wall outlets, and convert the voltage down to 100 volts for use by the Japanese appliance. The same PowerBright transformer will do that too.

But do I need a voltage transformer? Or would a plug adapter be enough?
Well, that depends on what you need to plug in. If your appliance's voltage matches the local voltage at your destination, then a plug adapter will do just fine all by itself. But if your appliance is not compatible with the local voltage, that's when a voltage transformer comes in. Voltage transformers actually change the local voltage to a voltage that's suitable for your appliance.

Wall outlets in Japan usually supply electricity at 100 volts AC. If you're plugging in an appliance that was built for 100 volt electrical input, or an appliance that is compatible with multiple voltages, then an adapter is all you need.

But plug adapters do not change voltage, so the electricity coming through the adapter will still be the same 100 volts the wall outlet is supplying. North American outlets supply electricity at between 110 and 120 volts. Consequently, North American appliances are generally built for 110-120 volts. But that doesn't mean that your specific appliance isn't already compatible with the Japanese voltage -- it may very well be. In fact, most chargers for modern smartphones/iPhones, tablets/iPads, laptops and digital cameras are already multi-voltage compatible. Check your charger for something to the effect of "Input: 100-240V" ... voila!

On the other hand, most "conventional appliances" like kitchen items, audio/video equipment, vacuum cleaners, lamps and lights, and most bath appliances are not compatible with multiple voltages, and need to have the voltage changed by way of a voltage transformer like this one. The only way to know for sure is to check the label, or the back of the manual, and determine the specific electrical input requirements for the specific device/appliance in question.

Is this transformer big enough to support my appliance?
The transformer you buy must be capable of supporting the amps and/or watts that your appliance needs in order to operate. If the transformer is too small, you will blow the fuse. The model VC500J supports 500 watts. So as long as your appliance is 500 watts or less, this transformer should be fine.

The watts and/or amps that your appliance requires can be found on a label on the appliance (usually on the bottom or back) where the brand name and model number appear. If the appliance uses a charger or AC adapter, the information will appear on the charger. Look for something like this: "Input: 120V 60Hz 100W " The "W" number is the watts. For this model transformer, that "W" number should be 500 or below.

Sometimes the label will show amps instead of watts. In that case the information would look something like: "Input: 120V 60Hz 10.0A " If the label lists amps, you can figure out a rough approximation of the watts by multiplying the amps by the volts (the "V" number). Example: 120 volts x 10.0 amps = 1200 watts. In this case, the VC500J would not be big enough to support the appliance. You would need to buy a transformer with a higher wattage capacity. PowerBright manufactures transformers that support up to 3000 watts!

Unlike most other voltage transformers for Japan, PowerBright transformers can be used as either a step up "booster" transformer or a step down "reducer" transformer. This means a PowerBright transformer will work whether you're bringing a North American 120 volt appliance to Japan, or bringing a 100 volt Japanese appliance to North America. Simply select the input voltage coming from the wall outlet via a jumper on the back of the unit, and plug your appliance into the outlet on the front of the unit which matches your appliance's required input voltage.

If you are bringing a U.S. or Canadian 110-120 volt appliance to Japan, you need a step up "booster" transformer. Step up transformers take the 100 volt electricity supplied by Japanese wall outlets, and convert the voltage up to 110-120 volts for use by the North American appliance. PowerBright transformers do that.

On the other hand, if you are bringing a 100 volt Japanese appliance to the U.S. or Canada where the voltage is 110-120 volts, you need a step down "reducer" transformer. Step down transformers take the 110-120 volt electricity supplied by American and Canadian wall outlets, and convert the voltage down to 100 volts for use by the Japanese appliance. The same PowerBright transformer will do that too.

But do I need a voltage transformer? Or would a plug adapter be enough?
Well, that depends on what you need to plug in. If your appliance's voltage matches the local voltage at your destination, then a plug adapter will do just fine all by itself. But if your appliance is not compatible with the local voltage, that's when a voltage transformer comes in. Voltage transformers actually change the local voltage to a voltage that's suitable for your appliance.

Wall outlets in Japan usually supply electricity at 100 volts AC. If you're plugging in an appliance that was built for 100 volt electrical input, or an appliance that is compatible with multiple voltages, then an adapter is all you need.

But plug adapters do not change voltage, so the electricity coming through the adapter will still be the same 100 volts the wall outlet is supplying. North American outlets supply electricity at between 110 and 120 volts. Consequently, North American appliances are generally built for 110-120 volts. But that doesn't mean that your specific appliance isn't already compatible with the Japanese voltage -- it may very well be. In fact, most chargers for modern smartphones/iPhones, tablets/iPads, laptops and digital cameras are already multi-voltage compatible. Check your charger for something to the effect of "Input: 100-240V" ... voila!

On the other hand, most "conventional appliances" like kitchen items, audio/video equipment, vacuum cleaners, lamps and lights, and most bath appliances are not compatible with multiple voltages, and need to have the voltage changed by way of a voltage transformer like this one. The only way to know for sure is to check the label, or the back of the manual, and determine the specific electrical input requirements for the specific device/appliance in question.

Is this transformer big enough to support my appliance?
The transformer you buy must be capable of supporting the amps and/or watts that your appliance needs in order to operate. If the transformer is too small, you will blow the fuse. The model VC2000J supports 2000 watts. So as long as your appliance is 2000 watts or less, this transformer should be fine.

The watts and/or amps that your appliance requires can be found on a label on the appliance (usually on the bottom or back) where the brand name and model number appear. If the appliance uses a charger or AC adapter, the information will appear on the charger. Look for something like this: "Input: 120V 60Hz 100W " The "W" number is the watts. For this model transformer, that "W" number should be 2000 or below.

Sometimes the label will show amps instead of watts. In that case the information would look something like: "Input: 120V 60Hz 10.0A " If the label lists amps, you can figure out a rough approximation of the watts by multiplying the amps by the volts (the "V" number). Example: 120 volts x 10.0 amps = 1200 watts. In this case, the VC2000J would in fact be big enough to support the appliance. PowerBright manufactures transformers that support up to 3000 watts!

This plug adapter changes the shape of an appliance's plug so that it can plug into a Type H (Israeli SI 32) wall outlet.

The receptacle side of the adapter can accept any standard household plug type from any country, except the Type M (South African SABS 1661) plug.

The plug side is a Type H (Israeli SI 32) plug with round pins, which is the current standard (changed from flat pins in 1989, but most Israeli wall outlets will accept both round pin and flat pin plugs.) The adapter's pins are 4mm in diameter and spaced 18mm apart. The plug is grounded and polarized.

Our EA Series plug adapters have recently been completely re-engineered from the inside out. It's the first significant advancement in plug adapter technology in 25 years! The redesigned internal structure makes these plug adapters the only ones on the market that meet IEC 60884-2-5 Amperage Rating / Temperature Rise standards.

Don't know what that means? We'll explain why it's incredibly important. But in the meantime, here's the short answer: It's the reason why our adapters are the only ones the US Military, the US Department of State, the US Department of Homeland Security, and 17 US Foreign Embassies trust enough to use for their mission-critical applications.

 

Be safe! Don't let this happen to you!

Oh, it happens all the time. Which is why the "Just buy an adapter when you get there, you can find them anywhere for a few bucks." comments you may have seen on travel forums are bad advice. Most adapters sold in foreign countries would be illegal to sell in the United States and Canada. Why? Because they wouldn't pass safety standards.

It's honestly frightening how little thought many people give to something that stands between them and the complete destruction of their expensive devices and appliances. Or worse yet, a fire. Electricity is a deadly serious matter. Give it the respect it deserves. Don't let a few bucks, or just plain indifference, put you in a potentially dangerous situation. Plug adapters are not "all the same." Not by a long shot.

Most plug adapters, even ones sold in the US and Canada, can only handle up to 6 amps of electricity. (As long as they're labeled as such, they're "legal" but that doesn't do you much good if you don't know or care what "amps" means.) The problem is that every household wall outlet in the world is capable of supplying at least 10 amps. In the UK, it's 13 amps. In North America, it's 15 amps. In the EU, it's 16 amps. What that means is that a generic plug adapter can easily be overloaded. An 1800-watt hair dryer draws 15 amps, for example. That's more than twice the amps a generic plug adapter can handle. What happens then? Well, first the adapter melts. Then it catches fire. Quickly. The horror stories are numerous. Don't let it happen to you!

Our EA Series adapters don't have that extremely serious problem, because they're the only adapters on the market that are rated to the full amperage of the wall outlet they're designed to plug into. (Furthermore, they're actually tested at 25% to 40% higher than that, for a full hour.) Bottom line? Our EA Series adapters simply can't be overloaded. You'd trip a breaker (or "blow a fuse" if you're of a certain age) in the building before you could ever approach any kind of overload that would cause our adapters to melt or catch fire. It's the reason why the US Military and State Department will use only our adapters.

Don't be fooled by mass-marketed knockoffs. They're unreliable at best, legitimately dangerous at worst.

Image 1 is a typical plug adapter you'd buy from a street vendor abroad. Shockingly, these are also available in US and Canadian "travel shops" at airports and online. They're bad news. They're usually not labeled to indicate their amperage/wattage ratings, and you're lucky if they support a paltry 3 amps. You might as well try to connect your device or appliance with a couple of paper clips wrapped in rubber bands. (Note: Please don't try that.) The outer shell is made of ABS plastic, which will melt and catch fire within 30 seconds if overloaded.

Image 2 is a slightly better constructed adapter, the kind you might find in an airport travel shop or online. But it still only supports 6 amps, or about half of what the outlet is capable of supplying. Worse yet, see that second receptacle on the top? These adapters are often marketed as "2 in 1" as if that's a feature. It's not a feature, it's a bug. That adapter is just begging to be overloaded. It can barely support the amps being drawn by one device or appliance, let alone two.

Images 3 and 4 are so-called "multi-adapters" or "all in one" adapters. And that seems like a good idea, at least in theory. Unfortunately, as a practical matter, they present a multitude of problems. For one thing, moving parts. Moving parts are bad. There's a reason power cords and their plugs don't have moving parts. Moving parts (or, worse yet, "floating parts" which only stay connected because they're pressed together, but aren't permanently connected) can be dangerous when those parts work themselves out of position. Especially when those parts are carrying electric current. Ever see someone hold two bare wires close together, but not touching, and there's an electrical arc that looks like a tiny lightning bolt? Yeah. That's what happens when "floating parts" aren't quite where they're supposed to be. And needless to say, that kind of situation isn't exactly ideal.

Furthermore, in an effort to keep these overly-complicated adapters as compact and lightweight (and profitable) as possible, manufacturers cut back on the materials. Less metal on the inside equals less conductivity, which results in more electrical resistance, which creates heat. Heat is bad. Especially when the outer shell of the adapter is made of cheap ABS plastic, which will melt and catch fire. Cheap materials + as little of those materials as possible + moving/floating parts = breakage. Don't even think about dropping it.

Our EA Series Plug Adapters: the only ones that are actually built the right way, with the right materials

We'll say it again: plug adapters are not "all the same." Not by a long shot. Our EA Series plug adapters are the only adapters on the market that can actually be considered safe and reliable. Why? Superior materials and engineering. No shortcuts taken, ever. It's why ours are the only adapters that can't be overloaded, won't melt, and won't catch fire.

The conductive metal parts inside our adapters are made of phosphorus copper, which is second only to silver in terms of conductivity. It's the same stuff the wires in your appliance's power cord, and the wires in the wall connected to the outlet, are usually made of. Generic adapters use brass, which is about 70% less conductive than copper. Lower conductivity is bad, because A) the adapter can't handle as much electricity, and B) lower conductivity means higher electrical resistance, which creates heat. Heat is bad!

Furthermore, all connection points inside our adapters are riveted. No moving parts, no "floating" parts. Not only does this make our adapters virtually unbreakable, this combined with the phosphorus copper is why our plug adapters are the only adapters capable of handling the full amperage of the wall outlet they're plugged into. Generic adapters use "pressed-on" connections, which is another reason they can only handle up to 6 amps. It's also why they tend to break so easily.

Meanwhile, our adapter's outer shell is made of PC V110 polycarbonate, as opposed to the ABS plastic used in generic adapters. Polycarbonate has twice the impact strength of ABS, which is why other adapters break and ours don't. Polycarbonate is also roughly twice as heat-resistant as ABS plastic, which is why our adapters don't melt. Polycarbonate is extremely flame-retardant (some engineers even consider it to be "self-extinguishing" if, for example, you were to put a torch to it) while ABS plastic ignites at a lower temperature than propane! And most importantly, polycarbonate is a far superior electrical insulator. If the most important thing inside an adapter is conductivity, the most important thing on the outside is non-conductivity.

All that is why our EA Series plug adapters are the only adapters the US Military will use. It's why our adapters are used in US foreign embassies all around the world. It's why they're used in Microsoft and Google data centers. It's why Boeing installs them in their aircraft. If they're not willing to chance it when it comes to their mission-critical applications, why would you? Be safe! Electricity is serious business. Buy your adapters from people who actually take it seriously.

This plug adapter changes the shape of an appliance's plug so that it can plug into a Type J (Swiss SEV 1011) wall outlet.

The receptacle side of the adapter can accept any standard household plug type from any country, except the Type M (South African SABS1661) plug.

The plug side is a Type J (Swiss SEV 1011) plug. Its pins are 4.0mm in diameter, same as the Europlug, but the third pin is present to allow grounded connections to Type J Swiss wall outlets. The plug is grounded and polarized.

Our EA Series plug adapters have recently been completely re-engineered from the inside out. It's the first significant advancement in plug adapter technology in 25 years! The redesigned internal structure makes these plug adapters the only ones on the market that meet IEC 60884-2-5 Amperage Rating / Temperature Rise standards.

Don't know what that means? We'll explain why it's incredibly important. But in the meantime, here's the short answer: It's the reason why our adapters are the only ones the US Military, the US Department of State, the US Department of Homeland Security, and 17 US Foreign Embassies trust enough to use for their mission-critical applications.

 

Be safe! Don't let this happen to you!

Oh, it happens all the time. Which is why the "Just buy an adapter when you get there, you can find them anywhere for a few bucks." comments you may have seen on travel forums are bad advice. Most adapters sold in foreign countries would be illegal to sell in the United States and Canada. Why? Because they wouldn't pass safety standards.

It's honestly frightening how little thought many people give to something that stands between them and the complete destruction of their expensive devices and appliances. Or worse yet, a fire. Electricity is a deadly serious matter. Give it the respect it deserves. Don't let a few bucks, or just plain indifference, put you in a potentially dangerous situation. Plug adapters are not "all the same." Not by a long shot.

Most plug adapters, even ones sold in the US and Canada, can only handle up to 6 amps of electricity. (As long as they're labeled as such, they're "legal" but that doesn't do you much good if you don't know or care what "amps" means.) The problem is that every household wall outlet in the world is capable of supplying at least 10 amps. In the UK, it's 13 amps. In North America, it's 15 amps. In the EU, it's 16 amps. What that means is that a generic plug adapter can easily be overloaded. An 1800-watt hair dryer draws 15 amps, for example. That's more than twice the amps a generic plug adapter can handle. What happens then? Well, first the adapter melts. Then it catches fire. Quickly. The horror stories are numerous. Don't let it happen to you!

Our EA Series adapters don't have that extremely serious problem, because they're the only adapters on the market that are rated to the full amperage of the wall outlet they're designed to plug into. (Furthermore, they're actually tested at 25% to 40% higher than that, for a full hour.) Bottom line? Our EA Series adapters simply can't be overloaded. You'd trip a breaker (or "blow a fuse" if you're of a certain age) in the building before you could ever approach any kind of overload that would cause our adapters to melt or catch fire. It's the reason why the US Military and State Department will use only our adapters.

Don't be fooled by mass-marketed knockoffs. They're unreliable at best, legitimately dangerous at worst.

Image 1 is a typical plug adapter you'd buy from a street vendor abroad. Shockingly, these are also available in US and Canadian "travel shops" at airports and online. They're bad news. They're usually not labeled to indicate their amperage/wattage ratings, and you're lucky if they support a paltry 3 amps. You might as well try to connect your device or appliance with a couple of paper clips wrapped in rubber bands. (Note: Please don't try that.) The outer shell is made of ABS plastic, which will melt and catch fire within 30 seconds if overloaded.

Image 2 is a slightly better constructed adapter, the kind you might find in an airport travel shop or online. But it still only supports 6 amps, or about half of what the outlet is capable of supplying. Worse yet, see that second receptacle on the top? These adapters are often marketed as "2 in 1" as if that's a feature. It's not a feature, it's a bug. That adapter is just begging to be overloaded. It can barely support the amps being drawn by one device or appliance, let alone two.

Images 3 and 4 are so-called "multi-adapters" or "all in one" adapters. And that seems like a good idea, at least in theory. Unfortunately, as a practical matter, they present a multitude of problems. For one thing, moving parts. Moving parts are bad. There's a reason power cords and their plugs don't have moving parts. Moving parts (or, worse yet, "floating parts" which only stay connected because they're pressed together, but aren't permanently connected) can be dangerous when those parts work themselves out of position. Especially when those parts are carrying electric current. Ever see someone hold two bare wires close together, but not touching, and there's an electrical arc that looks like a tiny lightning bolt? Yeah. That's what happens when "floating parts" aren't quite where they're supposed to be. And needless to say, that kind of situation isn't exactly ideal.

Furthermore, in an effort to keep these overly-complicated adapters as compact and lightweight (and profitable) as possible, manufacturers cut back on the materials. Less metal on the inside equals less conductivity, which results in more electrical resistance, which creates heat. Heat is bad. Especially when the outer shell of the adapter is made of cheap ABS plastic, which will melt and catch fire. Cheap materials + as little of those materials as possible + moving/floating parts = breakage. Don't even think about dropping it.

Our EA Series Plug Adapters: the only ones that are actually built the right way, with the right materials

We'll say it again: plug adapters are not "all the same." Not by a long shot. Our EA Series plug adapters are the only adapters on the market that can actually be considered safe and reliable. Why? Superior materials and engineering. No shortcuts taken, ever. It's why ours are the only adapters that can't be overloaded, won't melt, and won't catch fire.

The conductive metal parts inside our adapters are made of phosphorus copper, which is second only to silver in terms of conductivity. It's the same stuff the wires in your appliance's power cord, and the wires in the wall connected to the outlet, are usually made of. Generic adapters use brass, which is about 70% less conductive than copper. Lower conductivity is bad, because A) the adapter can't handle as much electricity, and B) lower conductivity means higher electrical resistance, which creates heat. Heat is bad!

Furthermore, all connection points inside our adapters are riveted. No moving parts, no "floating" parts. Not only does this make our adapters virtually unbreakable, this combined with the phosphorus copper is why our plug adapters are the only adapters capable of handling the full amperage of the wall outlet they're plugged into. Generic adapters use "pressed-on" connections, which is another reason they can only handle up to 6 amps. It's also why they tend to break so easily.

Meanwhile, our adapter's outer shell is made of PC V110 polycarbonate, as opposed to the ABS plastic used in generic adapters. Polycarbonate has twice the impact strength of ABS, which is why other adapters break and ours don't. Polycarbonate is also roughly twice as heat-resistant as ABS plastic, which is why our adapters don't melt. Polycarbonate is extremely flame-retardant (some engineers even consider it to be "self-extinguishing" if, for example, you were to put a torch to it) while ABS plastic ignites at a lower temperature than propane! And most importantly, polycarbonate is a far superior electrical insulator. If the most important thing inside an adapter is conductivity, the most important thing on the outside is non-conductivity.

All that is why our EA Series plug adapters are the only adapters the US Military will use. It's why our adapters are used in US foreign embassies all around the world. It's why they're used in Microsoft and Google data centers. It's why Boeing installs them in their aircraft. If they're not willing to chance it when it comes to their mission-critical applications, why would you? Be safe! Electricity is serious business. Buy your adapters from people who actually take it seriously.

This plug adapter changes the shape of an appliance's plug so that it can plug into a Type M (South African SABS 1661) wall outlet.

The receptacle side of the adapter can accept any standard household plug type from any country, except this same Type M (South African SABS 1661) plug.

The plug side is a Type M (South African SABS 1661) plug. The adapter's live and neutral pins are 7mm in diameter and spaced 25mm apart, and the grounding pin is 8.7mm in diameter. The plug is grounded and polarized.

Our EA Series plug adapters have recently been completely re-engineered from the inside out. It's the first significant advancement in plug adapter technology in 25 years! The redesigned internal structure makes these plug adapters the only ones on the market that meet IEC 60884-2-5 Amperage Rating / Temperature Rise standards.

Don't know what that means? We'll explain why it's incredibly important. But in the meantime, here's the short answer: It's the reason why our adapters are the only ones the US Military, the US Department of State, the US Department of Homeland Security, and 17 US Foreign Embassies trust enough to use for their mission-critical applications.

 

Be safe! Don't let this happen to you!

Oh, it happens all the time. Which is why the "Just buy an adapter when you get there, you can find them anywhere for a few bucks." comments you may have seen on travel forums are bad advice. Most adapters sold in foreign countries would be illegal to sell in the United States and Canada. Why? Because they wouldn't pass safety standards.

It's honestly frightening how little thought many people give to something that stands between them and the complete destruction of their expensive devices and appliances. Or worse yet, a fire. Electricity is a deadly serious matter. Give it the respect it deserves. Don't let a few bucks, or just plain indifference, put you in a potentially dangerous situation. Plug adapters are not "all the same." Not by a long shot.

Most plug adapters, even ones sold in the US and Canada, can only handle up to 6 amps of electricity. (As long as they're labeled as such, they're "legal" but that doesn't do you much good if you don't know or care what "amps" means.) The problem is that every household wall outlet in the world is capable of supplying at least 10 amps. In the UK, it's 13 amps. In North America, it's 15 amps. In the EU, it's 16 amps. What that means is that a generic plug adapter can easily be overloaded. An 1800-watt hair dryer draws 15 amps, for example. That's more than twice the amps a generic plug adapter can handle. What happens then? Well, first the adapter melts. Then it catches fire. Quickly. The horror stories are numerous. Don't let it happen to you!

Our EA Series adapters don't have that extremely serious problem, because they're the only adapters on the market that are rated to the full amperage of the wall outlet they're designed to plug into. (Furthermore, they're actually tested at 25% to 40% higher than that, for a full hour.) Bottom line? Our EA Series adapters simply can't be overloaded. You'd trip a breaker (or "blow a fuse" if you're of a certain age) in the building before you could ever approach any kind of overload that would cause our adapters to melt or catch fire. It's the reason why the US Military and State Department will use only our adapters.

Don't be fooled by mass-marketed knockoffs. They're unreliable at best, legitimately dangerous at worst.

Image 1 is a typical plug adapter you'd buy from a street vendor abroad. Shockingly, these are also available in US and Canadian "travel shops" at airports and online. They're bad news. They're usually not labeled to indicate their amperage/wattage ratings, and you're lucky if they support a paltry 3 amps. You might as well try to connect your device or appliance with a couple of paper clips wrapped in rubber bands. (Note: Please don't try that.) The outer shell is made of ABS plastic, which will melt and catch fire within 30 seconds if overloaded.

Image 2 is a slightly better constructed adapter, the kind you might find in an airport travel shop or online. But it still only supports 6 amps, or about half of what the outlet is capable of supplying. Worse yet, see that second receptacle on the top? These adapters are often marketed as "2 in 1" as if that's a feature. It's not a feature, it's a bug. That adapter is just begging to be overloaded. It can barely support the amps being drawn by one device or appliance, let alone two.

Images 3 and 4 are so-called "multi-adapters" or "all in one" adapters. And that seems like a good idea, at least in theory. Unfortunately, as a practical matter, they present a multitude of problems. For one thing, moving parts. Moving parts are bad. There's a reason power cords and their plugs don't have moving parts. Moving parts (or, worse yet, "floating parts" which only stay connected because they're pressed together, but aren't permanently connected) can be dangerous when those parts work themselves out of position. Especially when those parts are carrying electric current. Ever see someone hold two bare wires close together, but not touching, and there's an electrical arc that looks like a tiny lightning bolt? Yeah. That's what happens when "floating parts" aren't quite where they're supposed to be. And needless to say, that kind of situation isn't exactly ideal.

Furthermore, in an effort to keep these overly-complicated adapters as compact and lightweight (and profitable) as possible, manufacturers cut back on the materials. Less metal on the inside equals less conductivity, which results in more electrical resistance, which creates heat. Heat is bad. Especially when the outer shell of the adapter is made of cheap ABS plastic, which will melt and catch fire. Cheap materials + as little of those materials as possible + moving/floating parts = breakage. Don't even think about dropping it.

Our EA Series Plug Adapters: the only ones that are actually built the right way, with the right materials

We'll say it again: plug adapters are not "all the same." Not by a long shot. Our EA Series plug adapters are the only adapters on the market that can actually be considered safe and reliable. Why? Superior materials and engineering. No shortcuts taken, ever. It's why ours are the only adapters that can't be overloaded, won't melt, and won't catch fire.

The conductive metal parts inside our adapters are made of phosphorus copper, which is second only to silver in terms of conductivity. It's the same stuff the wires in your appliance's power cord, and the wires in the wall connected to the outlet, are usually made of. Generic adapters use brass, which is about 70% less conductive than copper. Lower conductivity is bad, because A) the adapter can't handle as much electricity, and B) lower conductivity means higher electrical resistance, which creates heat. Heat is bad!

Furthermore, all connection points inside our adapters are riveted. No moving parts, no "floating" parts. Not only does this make our adapters virtually unbreakable, this combined with the phosphorus copper is why our plug adapters are the only adapters capable of handling the full amperage of the wall outlet they're plugged into. Generic adapters use "pressed-on" connections, which is another reason they can only handle up to 6 amps. It's also why they tend to break so easily.

Meanwhile, our adapter's outer shell is made of PC V110 polycarbonate, as opposed to the ABS plastic used in generic adapters. Polycarbonate has twice the impact strength of ABS, which is why other adapters break and ours don't. Polycarbonate is also roughly twice as heat-resistant as ABS plastic, which is why our adapters don't melt. Polycarbonate is extremely flame-retardant (some engineers even consider it to be "self-extinguishing" if, for example, you were to put a torch to it) while ABS plastic ignites at a lower temperature than propane! And most importantly, polycarbonate is a far superior electrical insulator. If the most important thing inside an adapter is conductivity, the most important thing on the outside is non-conductivity.

All that is why our EA Series plug adapters are the only adapters the US Military will use. It's why our adapters are used in US foreign embassies all around the world. It's why they're used in Microsoft and Google data centers. It's why Boeing installs them in their aircraft. If they're not willing to chance it when it comes to their mission-critical applications, why would you? Be safe! Electricity is serious business. Buy your adapters from people who actually take it seriously.

This plug adapter changes the shape of an appliance's plug so that it can plug into a Type L (Italian CEI 23-16/VII) wall outlet.

The receptacle side of the adapter can accept any standard household plug type from any country, except the Type M (South African SABS 1661) plug.

The plug side is a Type L (Italian CEI 23-16/VII) plug. Its pins are 4.0mm in diameter, same as the Europlug, but the third pin is present to allow grounded connections to Type L Italian wall outlets. The plug is grounded, but not polarized.

Our EA Series plug adapters have recently been completely re-engineered from the inside out. It's the first significant advancement in plug adapter technology in 25 years! The redesigned internal structure makes these plug adapters the only ones on the market that meet IEC 60884-2-5 Amperage Rating / Temperature Rise standards.

Don't know what that means? We'll explain why it's incredibly important. But in the meantime, here's the short answer: It's the reason why our adapters are the only ones the US Military, the US Department of State, the US Department of Homeland Security, and 17 US Foreign Embassies trust enough to use for their mission-critical applications.

 

Be safe! Don't let this happen to you!

Oh, it happens all the time. Which is why the "Just buy an adapter when you get there, you can find them anywhere for a few bucks." comments you may have seen on travel forums are bad advice. Most adapters sold in foreign countries would be illegal to sell in the United States and Canada. Why? Because they wouldn't pass safety standards.

It's honestly frightening how little thought many people give to something that stands between them and the complete destruction of their expensive devices and appliances. Or worse yet, a fire. Electricity is a deadly serious matter. Give it the respect it deserves. Don't let a few bucks, or just plain indifference, put you in a potentially dangerous situation. Plug adapters are not "all the same." Not by a long shot.

Most plug adapters, even ones sold in the US and Canada, can only handle up to 6 amps of electricity. (As long as they're labeled as such, they're "legal" but that doesn't do you much good if you don't know or care what "amps" means.) The problem is that every household wall outlet in the world is capable of supplying at least 10 amps. In the UK, it's 13 amps. In North America, it's 15 amps. In the EU, it's 16 amps. What that means is that a generic plug adapter can easily be overloaded. An 1800-watt hair dryer draws 15 amps, for example. That's more than twice the amps a generic plug adapter can handle. What happens then? Well, first the adapter melts. Then it catches fire. Quickly. The horror stories are numerous. Don't let it happen to you!

Our EA Series adapters don't have that extremely serious problem, because they're the only adapters on the market that are rated to the full amperage of the wall outlet they're designed to plug into. (Furthermore, they're actually tested at 25% to 40% higher than that, for a full hour.) Bottom line? Our EA Series adapters simply can't be overloaded. You'd trip a breaker (or "blow a fuse" if you're of a certain age) in the building before you could ever approach any kind of overload that would cause our adapters to melt or catch fire. It's the reason why the US Military and State Department will use only our adapters.

Don't be fooled by mass-marketed knockoffs. They're unreliable at best, legitimately dangerous at worst.

Image 1 is a typical plug adapter you'd buy from a street vendor abroad. Shockingly, these are also available in US and Canadian "travel shops" at airports and online. They're bad news. They're usually not labeled to indicate their amperage/wattage ratings, and you're lucky if they support a paltry 3 amps. You might as well try to connect your device or appliance with a couple of paper clips wrapped in rubber bands. (Note: Please don't try that.) The outer shell is made of ABS plastic, which will melt and catch fire within 30 seconds if overloaded.

Image 2 is a slightly better constructed adapter, the kind you might find in an airport travel shop or online. But it still only supports 6 amps, or about half of what the outlet is capable of supplying. Worse yet, see that second receptacle on the top? These adapters are often marketed as "2 in 1" as if that's a feature. It's not a feature, it's a bug. That adapter is just begging to be overloaded. It can barely support the amps being drawn by one device or appliance, let alone two.

Images 3 and 4 are so-called "multi-adapters" or "all in one" adapters. And that seems like a good idea, at least in theory. Unfortunately, as a practical matter, they present a multitude of problems. For one thing, moving parts. Moving parts are bad. There's a reason power cords and their plugs don't have moving parts. Moving parts (or, worse yet, "floating parts" which only stay connected because they're pressed together, but aren't permanently connected) can be dangerous when those parts work themselves out of position. Especially when those parts are carrying electric current. Ever see someone hold two bare wires close together, but not touching, and there's an electrical arc that looks like a tiny lightning bolt? Yeah. That's what happens when "floating parts" aren't quite where they're supposed to be. And needless to say, that kind of situation isn't exactly ideal.

Furthermore, in an effort to keep these overly-complicated adapters as compact and lightweight (and profitable) as possible, manufacturers cut back on the materials. Less metal on the inside equals less conductivity, which results in more electrical resistance, which creates heat. Heat is bad. Especially when the outer shell of the adapter is made of cheap ABS plastic, which will melt and catch fire. Cheap materials + as little of those materials as possible + moving/floating parts = breakage. Don't even think about dropping it.

Our EA Series Plug Adapters: the only ones that are actually built the right way, with the right materials

We'll say it again: plug adapters are not "all the same." Not by a long shot. Our EA Series plug adapters are the only adapters on the market that can actually be considered safe and reliable. Why? Superior materials and engineering. No shortcuts taken, ever. It's why ours are the only adapters that can't be overloaded, won't melt, and won't catch fire.

The conductive metal parts inside our adapters are made of phosphorus copper, which is second only to silver in terms of conductivity. It's the same stuff the wires in your appliance's power cord, and the wires in the wall connected to the outlet, are usually made of. Generic adapters use brass, which is about 70% less conductive than copper. Lower conductivity is bad, because A) the adapter can't handle as much electricity, and B) lower conductivity means higher electrical resistance, which creates heat. Heat is bad!

Furthermore, all connection points inside our adapters are riveted. No moving parts, no "floating" parts. Not only does this make our adapters virtually unbreakable, this combined with the phosphorus copper is why our plug adapters are the only adapters capable of handling the full amperage of the wall outlet they're plugged into. Generic adapters use "pressed-on" connections, which is another reason they can only handle up to 6 amps. It's also why they tend to break so easily.

Meanwhile, our adapter's outer shell is made of PC V110 polycarbonate, as opposed to the ABS plastic used in generic adapters. Polycarbonate has twice the impact strength of ABS, which is why other adapters break and ours don't. Polycarbonate is also roughly twice as heat-resistant as ABS plastic, which is why our adapters don't melt. Polycarbonate is extremely flame-retardant (some engineers even consider it to be "self-extinguishing" if, for example, you were to put a torch to it) while ABS plastic ignites at a lower temperature than propane! And most importantly, polycarbonate is a far superior electrical insulator. If the most important thing inside an adapter is conductivity, the most important thing on the outside is non-conductivity.

All that is why our EA Series plug adapters are the only adapters the US Military will use. It's why our adapters are used in US foreign embassies all around the world. It's why they're used in Microsoft and Google data centers. It's why Boeing installs them in their aircraft. If they're not willing to chance it when it comes to their mission-critical applications, why would you? Be safe! Electricity is serious business. Buy your adapters from people who actually take it seriously.