New EA series plug adapters
A 25-year advance!
Completely re-engineered from the inside out
Just a Few of Our Valued Customers



















TEMPGUARD, the ultimate thermal protection against overload
A TEMPGUARD transformer turns itself off automatically before any damage can be done to the transformer from overload and subsequent overheating.


Mobile Locksmiths: Do not void your key cutter warranty!
Manufacturers require the use of a PURE SINE WAVE inverter to power your key cutting machine in your truck or van. Pure sine wave inverters supply power that is identical to native AC power from a wall outlet, at 2 to 5% harmonic distortion, as opposed to 30 to 50% with an ordinary inverter.
Coming Soon: PowerXchanger
Finally a practical solution for converting both voltage AND frequency! PowerXchanger is a full-featured sine wave output regenerator that produces new, clean, and constant AC power at 120VAC 60Hz.

The Good Stuff

EA7 Type G Travel Plug Adapter for the UK, Ireland (BS-1363)
EA7 Type G Travel Plug Adapter for the UK, Ireland (BS-1363)

5 Reviews
Save: 20% off
Availability : In stock
This plug adapter changes the shape of an appliance's plug so that it can plug into a Type G (British BS-1363) wall outlet.
The receptacle side of the adapter can accept any standard household plug type from any country, except the Type M (South African SABS 1661) plug.
The plug side is a Type G (British BS-1363) 13-amp plug. The adapter's live and neutral pins are 4 x 6 x 18mm, spaced 22mm apart, and the grounding pin is 4 x 8 x 23mm. The plug is polarized and grounded, but not fused.
Our EA Series plug adapters have recently been completely re-engineered from the inside out. It's the first significant advancement in plug adapter technology in 25 years! The redesigned internal structure makes these plug adapters the only ones on the market that meet IEC 60884-2-5 Amperage Rating / Temperature Rise standards.
Don't know what that means? We'll explain why it's incredibly important. But in the meantime, here's the short answer: It's the reason why our adapters are the only ones the US Military, the US Department of State, the US Department of Homeland Security, and 17 US Foreign Embassies trust enough to use for their mission-critical applications.
Be safe! Don't let this happen to you!
Oh, it happens all the time. Which is why the "Just buy an adapter when you get there, you can find them anywhere for a few bucks." comments you may have seen on travel forums are bad advice. Most adapters sold in foreign countries would be illegal to sell in the United States and Canada. Why? Because they wouldn't pass safety standards.
It's honestly frightening how little thought many people give to something that stands between them and the complete destruction of their expensive devices and appliances. Or worse yet, a fire. Electricity is a deadly serious matter. Give it the respect it deserves. Don't let a few bucks, or just plain indifference, put you in a potentially dangerous situation. Plug adapters are not "all the same." Not by a long shot.
Most plug adapters, even ones sold in the US and Canada, can only handle up to 6 amps of electricity. (As long as they're labeled as such, they're "legal" but that doesn't do you much good if you don't know or care what "amps" means.) The problem is that every household wall outlet in the world is capable of supplying at least 10 amps. In the UK, it's 13 amps. In North America, it's 15 amps. In the EU, it's 16 amps. What that means is that a generic plug adapter can easily be overloaded. An 1800-watt hair dryer draws 15 amps, for example. That's more than twice the amps a generic plug adapter can handle. What happens then? Well, first the adapter melts. Then it catches fire. Quickly. The horror stories are numerous. Don't let it happen to you!
Our EA Series adapters don't have that extremely serious problem, because they're the only adapters on the market that are rated to the full amperage of the wall outlet they're designed to plug into. (Furthermore, they're actually tested at 25% to 40% higher than that, for a full hour.) Bottom line? Our EA Series adapters simply can't be overloaded. You'd trip a breaker (or "blow a fuse" if you're of a certain age) in the building before you could ever approach any kind of overload that would cause our adapters to melt or catch fire. It's the reason why the US Military and State Department will use only our adapters.
Don't be fooled by mass-marketed knockoffs. They're unreliable at best, legitimately dangerous at worst.
Image 1 is a typical plug adapter you'd buy from a street vendor abroad. Shockingly, these are also available in US and Canadian "travel shops" at airports and online. They're bad news. They're usually not labeled to indicate their amperage/wattage ratings, and you're lucky if they support a paltry 3 amps. You might as well try to connect your device or appliance with a couple of paper clips wrapped in rubber bands. (Note: Please don't try that.) The outer shell is made of ABS plastic, which will melt and catch fire within 30 seconds if overloaded.
Image 2 is a slightly better constructed adapter, the kind you might find in an airport travel shop or online. But it still only supports 6 amps, or about half of what the outlet is capable of supplying. Worse yet, see that second receptacle on the top? These adapters are often marketed as "2 in 1" as if that's a feature. It's not a feature, it's a bug. That adapter is just begging to be overloaded. It can barely support the amps being drawn by one device or appliance, let alone two.
Images 3 and 4 are so-called "multi-adapters" or "all in one" adapters. And that seems like a good idea, at least in theory. Unfortunately, as a practical matter, they present a multitude of problems. For one thing, moving parts. Moving parts are bad. There's a reason power cords and their plugs don't have moving parts. Moving parts (or, worse yet, "floating parts" which only stay connected because they're pressed together, but aren't permanently connected) can be dangerous when those parts work themselves out of position. Especially when those parts are carrying electric current. Ever see someone hold two bare wires close together, but not touching, and there's an electrical arc that looks like a tiny lightning bolt? Yeah. That's what happens when "floating parts" aren't quite where they're supposed to be. And needless to say, that kind of situation isn't exactly ideal.
Furthermore, in an effort to keep these overly-complicated adapters as compact and lightweight (and profitable) as possible, manufacturers cut back on the materials. Less metal on the inside equals less conductivity, which results in more electrical resistance, which creates heat. Heat is bad. Especially when the outer shell of the adapter is made of cheap ABS plastic, which will melt and catch fire. Cheap materials + as little of those materials as possible + moving/floating parts = breakage. Don't even think about dropping it.
Our EA Series Plug Adapters: the only ones that are actually built the right way, with the right materials
We'll say it again: plug adapters are not "all the same." Not by a long shot. Our EA Series plug adapters are the only adapters on the market that can actually be considered safe and reliable. Why? Superior materials and engineering. No shortcuts taken, ever. It's why ours are the only adapters that can't be overloaded, won't melt, and won't catch fire.
The conductive metal parts inside our adapters are made of phosphorus copper, which is second only to silver in terms of conductivity. It's the same stuff the wires in your appliance's power cord, and the wires in the wall connected to the outlet, are usually made of. Generic adapters use brass, which is about 70% less conductive than copper. Lower conductivity is bad, because A) the adapter can't handle as much electricity, and B) lower conductivity means higher electrical resistance, which creates heat. Heat is bad!
Furthermore, all connection points inside our adapters are riveted. No moving parts, no "floating" parts. Not only does this make our adapters virtually unbreakable, this combined with the phosphorus copper is why our plug adapters are the only adapters capable of handling the full amperage of the wall outlet they're plugged into. Generic adapters use "pressed-on" connections, which is another reason they can only handle up to 6 amps. It's also why they tend to break so easily.
Meanwhile, our adapter's outer shell is made of PC V110 polycarbonate, as opposed to the ABS plastic used in generic adapters. Polycarbonate has twice the impact strength of ABS, which is why other adapters break and ours don't. Polycarbonate is also roughly twice as heat-resistant as ABS plastic, which is why our adapters don't melt. Polycarbonate is extremely flame-retardant (some engineers even consider it to be "self-extinguishing" if, for example, you were to put a torch to it) while ABS plastic ignites at a lower temperature than propane! And most importantly, polycarbonate is a far superior electrical insulator. If the most important thing inside an adapter is conductivity, the most important thing on the outside is non-conductivity.
IEC 60884-2-5 AMPERAGE RATING / OVERLOAD TEMPERATURE RISE TEST RESULTS | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Plug Adapter | for outlet type | Rated Amps | Tested Amps | Tested time | Temp Rise (Kelvin) |
EA5 | Type B North American NEMA 5-15 | 15.0 Amps | 18.8 Amps | 1 Hour | 36.3 K |
EA6 | Type A Japanese JIS C 8303 | 15.0 Amps | 18.8 Amps | 1 Hour | 36.3 K |
EA18 | North American NEMA 6-15 | 15.0 Amps | 18.8 Amps | 1 Hour | 36.3 K |
EA21 | North American NEMA 6-20 | 20.0 Amps | 25.0 Amps | 1 Hour | 43.2 K |
EA7 | Type G British BS-1363 | 13.0 Amps | 16.3 Amps | 1 Hour | 35.5 K |
EA9 | Type E/F European CEE 7/4-5 Schuko | 16.0 Amps | 20.0 Amps | 1 Hour | 36.1 K |
EA9C | Type C European CEE 7/16 Europlug | 10.0 Amps | 14.0 Amps | 1 Hour | 30.0 K |
EA11 | Type J Swiss SEV 1011 | 10.0 Amps | 14.0 Amps | 1 Hour | 32.5 K |
EA12 | Type L Italian CEI 23-16/VII | 10.0 Amps | 14.0 Amps | 1 Hour | 32.5 K |
EA16 | Type I Australian AS-3112 | 10.0 Amps | 14.0 Amps | 1 Hour | 23.8 K |
All Generic Adapters | 3 to 6 Amps | 4.2 to 8.4 Amps | 1 Hour | 44.8 to 120 K (!!!) |
All that is why our EA Series plug adapters are the only adapters the US Military will use. It's why our adapters are used in US foreign embassies all around the world. It's why they're used in Microsoft and Google data centers. It's why Boeing installs them in their aircraft. If they're not willing to chance it when it comes to their mission-critical applications, why would you? Be safe! Electricity is serious business. Buy your adapters from people who actually take it seriously.


EA7 Type G Travel Plug Adapter for the UK, Ireland (BS-1363)
Save: 20% off
Todd Systems SD-13 220-240V to 110-120V Stepdown Autotransformer (1000 Watt Capacity)
Todd Systems SD-13 220-240V to 110-120V Stepdown Autotransformer (1000 Watt Capacity)

0 Reviews
Availability : In stock
If you need to operate a North American 110-120 volt appliance in a country where the voltage supplied by the electrical outlets is 220-240 volts, you need a step down transformer. Step down transformers take the 220-240 volt electricity supplied in most countries, and convert the voltage down to 110-120 volts for use by the appliance.
- Todd Systems has been manufacturing transformers for industrial environments and the military for over 40 years.
- All Todd Systems transformers are designed and manufactured in the U.S.A.
- All Todd Systems transformers are precision wound and insulated with the latest hi-tech, insulating materials. The core laminations are of high grade annealed silicon steel, designed to keep heating to a minimum.
- All transformers are impregnated with a modified polyester heat cured varnish, which seals the transformer, thus protecting the electrical windings from moisture and contamination.
- Metal housings are baked enamel finished, and all Todd Systems transformers meet UL and IEC specifications.
- Every Todd Systems transformer is thoroughly tested, twice, and thoroughly inspected to ensure top quality. The result of this use of superior materials, advanced design, and complete 100% testing is long, trouble-free transformer life.
PLEASE NOTE: All Todd Systems products are "custom built" in that, while base models are stocked in large quantities, configuration options (such as power cord length/type, etc.) are installed on a per-order basis to suit the particular configuration desired. This is usually accomplished quickly, with the product shipping within 24 hours, but that varies from day to day based on volume. Therefore, we ask that you ALWAYS allow for at least 2 or 3 days lead time to ship.
SD-13 Configuration Options:
Model # | Cord/Plug | Outlet | TEMPGUARD | VA | Amps | Weight | Height | Width | Depth | |
SD-13G | NEMA 5-15 | NEMA 5-15 | No | 1000 VA | 8.7 A | 13-3/4 lbs | 4-5/8" | 3-7/8" | 6" | |
SD-13GTC | NEMA 5-15 | NEMA 5-15 | YES | |||||||
SD-13SC | CEE 7/7 Schuko | NEMA 5-15 | No | |||||||
SD-13SCTC | CEE 7/7 Schuko | NEMA 5-15 | YES | |||||||
SD-13UK | British BS-1363 | NEMA 5-15 | No | |||||||
SD-13UKTC | British BS-1363 | NEMA 5-15 | YES |
About TEMPGUARD, the ultimate thermal protection against overload:
- If an appliance exceeds a normal transformer's VA (wattage) rating, the transformer will eventually overheat and burn out, destroying the transformer, and potentially creating a fire hazard.
- A TEMPGUARD transformer turns itself off automatically before any damage can be done to the transformer from overload and subsequent overheating.
- After a TEMPGUARD transformer cools down, it will turn itself back on automatically.
- A TEMPGUARD transformer will continue to turn itself off and on when the thermal threshold is crossed, with no damage done.


Energizer EN180 Cup Style 12V DC to 120V AC Power Inverter (180 Watt Capacity)
Energizer EN180 Cup Style 12V DC to 120V AC Power Inverter (180 Watt Capacity)

0 Reviews
Save: 29% off
Availability : In stock
The World’s Smallest Cup Inverter™ This 180 watt inverter will allow you to power your mobile devices in your car, boat or RV. This cup inverter is ultra compact, plugs into your vehicle’s DC auxiliary power socket or attaches to a car battery, and fits securely in most vehicles' cup holders. With 4 USB ports and 1 standard North American outlet, you can run and charge up to 5 devices at once, keeping you connected wherever you go.
- 180 watts continuous / 360 watts peak power
- Powers up to 5 devices at once
- Ultra Silent (no internal fan)
- Four (4) USB charging ports provide 2.1 amps (shared)
- Tablet Charging compatible from USB ports
- Fits securely into most cup holders
- One (1) standard North American AC outlet


Energizer EN180 Cup Style 12V DC to 120V AC Power Inverter (180 Watt Capacity)
Save: 29% off
EA16 Type I Travel Plug Adapter for Australia, China (AS 3112 / CPCS-CCC)
EA16 Type I Travel Plug Adapter for Australia, China (AS 3112 / CPCS-CCC)

3 Reviews
Save: 20% off
Availability : In stock
This plug adapter changes the shape of an appliance's plug so that it can plug into a Type I (Australian AS 3112 / Chinese CPCS-CCC) or a Type I (Argentine IRAM 2073) wall outlet.
The receptacle side of the adapter can accept any standard household plug type from any country, except the Type M (South African SABS 1661) plug.
The plug side is a Type I (Australian AS 3112) plug. The adapter's blade contacts are 6.5 x 1.6mm, and the live and neutral blades are angled 30° to vertical at a nominal pitch of 13.7mm. The plug is grounded and polarized.
Our EA Series plug adapters have recently been completely re-engineered from the inside out. It's the first significant advancement in plug adapter technology in 25 years! The redesigned internal structure makes these plug adapters the only ones on the market that meet IEC 60884-2-5 Amperage Rating / Temperature Rise standards.
Don't know what that means? We'll explain why it's incredibly important. But in the meantime, here's the short answer: It's the reason why our adapters are the only ones the US Military, the US Department of State, the US Department of Homeland Security, and 17 US Foreign Embassies trust enough to use for their mission-critical applications.
Be safe! Don't let this happen to you!
Oh, it happens all the time. Which is why the "Just buy an adapter when you get there, you can find them anywhere for a few bucks." comments you may have seen on travel forums are bad advice. Most adapters sold in foreign countries would be illegal to sell in the United States and Canada. Why? Because they wouldn't pass safety standards.
It's honestly frightening how little thought many people give to something that stands between them and the complete destruction of their expensive devices and appliances. Or worse yet, a fire. Electricity is a deadly serious matter. Give it the respect it deserves. Don't let a few bucks, or just plain indifference, put you in a potentially dangerous situation. Plug adapters are not "all the same." Not by a long shot.
Most plug adapters, even ones sold in the US and Canada, can only handle up to 6 amps of electricity. (As long as they're labeled as such, they're "legal" but that doesn't do you much good if you don't know or care what "amps" means.) The problem is that every household wall outlet in the world is capable of supplying at least 10 amps. In the UK, it's 13 amps. In North America, it's 15 amps. In the EU, it's 16 amps. What that means is that a generic plug adapter can easily be overloaded. An 1800-watt hair dryer draws 15 amps, for example. That's more than twice the amps a generic plug adapter can handle. What happens then? Well, first the adapter melts. Then it catches fire. Quickly. The horror stories are numerous. Don't let it happen to you!
Our EA Series adapters don't have that extremely serious problem, because they're the only adapters on the market that are rated to the full amperage of the wall outlet they're designed to plug into. (Furthermore, they're actually tested at 25% to 40% higher than that, for a full hour.) Bottom line? Our EA Series adapters simply can't be overloaded. You'd trip a breaker (or "blow a fuse" if you're of a certain age) in the building before you could ever approach any kind of overload that would cause our adapters to melt or catch fire. It's the reason why the US Military and State Department will use only our adapters.
Don't be fooled by mass-marketed knockoffs. They're unreliable at best, legitimately dangerous at worst.
Image 1 is a typical plug adapter you'd buy from a street vendor abroad. Shockingly, these are also available in US and Canadian "travel shops" at airports and online. They're bad news. They're usually not labeled to indicate their amperage/wattage ratings, and you're lucky if they support a paltry 3 amps. You might as well try to connect your device or appliance with a couple of paper clips wrapped in rubber bands. (Note: Please don't try that.) The outer shell is made of ABS plastic, which will melt and catch fire within 30 seconds if overloaded.
Image 2 is a slightly better constructed adapter, the kind you might find in an airport travel shop or online. But it still only supports 6 amps, or about half of what the outlet is capable of supplying. Worse yet, see that second receptacle on the top? These adapters are often marketed as "2 in 1" as if that's a feature. It's not a feature, it's a bug. That adapter is just begging to be overloaded. It can barely support the amps being drawn by one device or appliance, let alone two.
Images 3 and 4 are so-called "multi-adapters" or "all in one" adapters. And that seems like a good idea, at least in theory. Unfortunately, as a practical matter, they present a multitude of problems. For one thing, moving parts. Moving parts are bad. There's a reason power cords and their plugs don't have moving parts. Moving parts (or, worse yet, "floating parts" which only stay connected because they're pressed together, but aren't permanently connected) can be dangerous when those parts work themselves out of position. Especially when those parts are carrying electric current. Ever see someone hold two bare wires close together, but not touching, and there's an electrical arc that looks like a tiny lightning bolt? Yeah. That's what happens when "floating parts" aren't quite where they're supposed to be. And needless to say, that kind of situation isn't exactly ideal.
Furthermore, in an effort to keep these overly-complicated adapters as compact and lightweight (and profitable) as possible, manufacturers cut back on the materials. Less metal on the inside equals less conductivity, which results in more electrical resistance, which creates heat. Heat is bad. Especially when the outer shell of the adapter is made of cheap ABS plastic, which will melt and catch fire. Cheap materials + as little of those materials as possible + moving/floating parts = breakage. Don't even think about dropping it.
Our EA Series Plug Adapters: the only ones that are actually built the right way, with the right materials
We'll say it again: plug adapters are not "all the same." Not by a long shot. Our EA Series plug adapters are the only adapters on the market that can actually be considered safe and reliable. Why? Superior materials and engineering. No shortcuts taken, ever. It's why ours are the only adapters that can't be overloaded, won't melt, and won't catch fire.
The conductive metal parts inside our adapters are made of phosphorus copper, which is second only to silver in terms of conductivity. It's the same stuff the wires in your appliance's power cord, and the wires in the wall connected to the outlet, are usually made of. Generic adapters use brass, which is about 70% less conductive than copper. Lower conductivity is bad, because A) the adapter can't handle as much electricity, and B) lower conductivity means higher electrical resistance, which creates heat. Heat is bad!
Furthermore, all connection points inside our adapters are riveted. No moving parts, no "floating" parts. Not only does this make our adapters virtually unbreakable, this combined with the phosphorus copper is why our plug adapters are the only adapters capable of handling the full amperage of the wall outlet they're plugged into. Generic adapters use "pressed-on" connections, which is another reason they can only handle up to 6 amps. It's also why they tend to break so easily.
Meanwhile, our adapter's outer shell is made of PC V110 polycarbonate, as opposed to the ABS plastic used in generic adapters. Polycarbonate has twice the impact strength of ABS, which is why other adapters break and ours don't. Polycarbonate is also roughly twice as heat-resistant as ABS plastic, which is why our adapters don't melt. Polycarbonate is extremely flame-retardant (some engineers even consider it to be "self-extinguishing" if, for example, you were to put a torch to it) while ABS plastic ignites at a lower temperature than propane! And most importantly, polycarbonate is a far superior electrical insulator. If the most important thing inside an adapter is conductivity, the most important thing on the outside is non-conductivity.
IEC 60884-2-5 AMPERAGE RATING / OVERLOAD TEMPERATURE RISE TEST RESULTS | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Plug Adapter | for outlet type | Rated Amps | Tested Amps | Tested time | Temp Rise (Kelvin) |
EA5 | Type B North American NEMA 5-15 | 15.0 Amps | 18.8 Amps | 1 Hour | 36.3 K |
EA6 | Type A Japanese JIS C 8303 | 15.0 Amps | 18.8 Amps | 1 Hour | 36.3 K |
EA18 | North American NEMA 6-15 | 15.0 Amps | 18.8 Amps | 1 Hour | 36.3 K |
EA21 | North American NEMA 6-20 | 20.0 Amps | 25.0 Amps | 1 Hour | 43.2 K |
EA7 | Type G British BS-1363 | 13.0 Amps | 16.3 Amps | 1 Hour | 35.5 K |
EA9 | Type E/F European CEE 7/4-5 Schuko | 16.0 Amps | 20.0 Amps | 1 Hour | 36.1 K |
EA9C | Type C European CEE 7/16 Europlug | 10.0 Amps | 14.0 Amps | 1 Hour | 30.0 K |
EA11 | Type J Swiss SEV 1011 | 10.0 Amps | 14.0 Amps | 1 Hour | 32.5 K |
EA12 | Type L Italian CEI 23-16/VII | 10.0 Amps | 14.0 Amps | 1 Hour | 32.5 K |
EA16 | Type I Australian AS-3112 | 10.0 Amps | 14.0 Amps | 1 Hour | 23.8 K |
All Generic Adapters | 3 to 6 Amps | 4.2 to 8.4 Amps | 1 Hour | 44.8 to 120 K (!!!) |
All that is why our EA Series plug adapters are the only adapters the US Military will use. It's why our adapters are used in US foreign embassies all around the world. It's why they're used in Microsoft and Google data centers. It's why Boeing installs them in their aircraft. If they're not willing to chance it when it comes to their mission-critical applications, why would you? Be safe! Electricity is serious business. Buy your adapters from people who actually take it seriously.


EA16 Type I Travel Plug Adapter for Australia, China (AS 3112 / CPCS-CCC)
Save: 20% off
EA7 Type G Travel Plug Adapter for the UK, Ireland (BS-1363)
EA7 Type G Travel Plug Adapter for the UK, Ireland (BS-1363)

5 Reviews
Save: 20% off
Availability : In stock
This plug adapter changes the shape of an appliance's plug so that it can plug into a Type G (British BS-1363) wall outlet.
The receptacle side of the adapter can accept any standard household plug type from any country, except the Type M (South African SABS 1661) plug.
The plug side is a Type G (British BS-1363) 13-amp plug. The adapter's live and neutral pins are 4 x 6 x 18mm, spaced 22mm apart, and the grounding pin is 4 x 8 x 23mm. The plug is polarized and grounded, but not fused.
Our EA Series plug adapters have recently been completely re-engineered from the inside out. It's the first significant advancement in plug adapter technology in 25 years! The redesigned internal structure makes these plug adapters the only ones on the market that meet IEC 60884-2-5 Amperage Rating / Temperature Rise standards.
Don't know what that means? We'll explain why it's incredibly important. But in the meantime, here's the short answer: It's the reason why our adapters are the only ones the US Military, the US Department of State, the US Department of Homeland Security, and 17 US Foreign Embassies trust enough to use for their mission-critical applications.
Be safe! Don't let this happen to you!
Oh, it happens all the time. Which is why the "Just buy an adapter when you get there, you can find them anywhere for a few bucks." comments you may have seen on travel forums are bad advice. Most adapters sold in foreign countries would be illegal to sell in the United States and Canada. Why? Because they wouldn't pass safety standards.
It's honestly frightening how little thought many people give to something that stands between them and the complete destruction of their expensive devices and appliances. Or worse yet, a fire. Electricity is a deadly serious matter. Give it the respect it deserves. Don't let a few bucks, or just plain indifference, put you in a potentially dangerous situation. Plug adapters are not "all the same." Not by a long shot.
Most plug adapters, even ones sold in the US and Canada, can only handle up to 6 amps of electricity. (As long as they're labeled as such, they're "legal" but that doesn't do you much good if you don't know or care what "amps" means.) The problem is that every household wall outlet in the world is capable of supplying at least 10 amps. In the UK, it's 13 amps. In North America, it's 15 amps. In the EU, it's 16 amps. What that means is that a generic plug adapter can easily be overloaded. An 1800-watt hair dryer draws 15 amps, for example. That's more than twice the amps a generic plug adapter can handle. What happens then? Well, first the adapter melts. Then it catches fire. Quickly. The horror stories are numerous. Don't let it happen to you!
Our EA Series adapters don't have that extremely serious problem, because they're the only adapters on the market that are rated to the full amperage of the wall outlet they're designed to plug into. (Furthermore, they're actually tested at 25% to 40% higher than that, for a full hour.) Bottom line? Our EA Series adapters simply can't be overloaded. You'd trip a breaker (or "blow a fuse" if you're of a certain age) in the building before you could ever approach any kind of overload that would cause our adapters to melt or catch fire. It's the reason why the US Military and State Department will use only our adapters.
Don't be fooled by mass-marketed knockoffs. They're unreliable at best, legitimately dangerous at worst.
Image 1 is a typical plug adapter you'd buy from a street vendor abroad. Shockingly, these are also available in US and Canadian "travel shops" at airports and online. They're bad news. They're usually not labeled to indicate their amperage/wattage ratings, and you're lucky if they support a paltry 3 amps. You might as well try to connect your device or appliance with a couple of paper clips wrapped in rubber bands. (Note: Please don't try that.) The outer shell is made of ABS plastic, which will melt and catch fire within 30 seconds if overloaded.
Image 2 is a slightly better constructed adapter, the kind you might find in an airport travel shop or online. But it still only supports 6 amps, or about half of what the outlet is capable of supplying. Worse yet, see that second receptacle on the top? These adapters are often marketed as "2 in 1" as if that's a feature. It's not a feature, it's a bug. That adapter is just begging to be overloaded. It can barely support the amps being drawn by one device or appliance, let alone two.
Images 3 and 4 are so-called "multi-adapters" or "all in one" adapters. And that seems like a good idea, at least in theory. Unfortunately, as a practical matter, they present a multitude of problems. For one thing, moving parts. Moving parts are bad. There's a reason power cords and their plugs don't have moving parts. Moving parts (or, worse yet, "floating parts" which only stay connected because they're pressed together, but aren't permanently connected) can be dangerous when those parts work themselves out of position. Especially when those parts are carrying electric current. Ever see someone hold two bare wires close together, but not touching, and there's an electrical arc that looks like a tiny lightning bolt? Yeah. That's what happens when "floating parts" aren't quite where they're supposed to be. And needless to say, that kind of situation isn't exactly ideal.
Furthermore, in an effort to keep these overly-complicated adapters as compact and lightweight (and profitable) as possible, manufacturers cut back on the materials. Less metal on the inside equals less conductivity, which results in more electrical resistance, which creates heat. Heat is bad. Especially when the outer shell of the adapter is made of cheap ABS plastic, which will melt and catch fire. Cheap materials + as little of those materials as possible + moving/floating parts = breakage. Don't even think about dropping it.
Our EA Series Plug Adapters: the only ones that are actually built the right way, with the right materials
We'll say it again: plug adapters are not "all the same." Not by a long shot. Our EA Series plug adapters are the only adapters on the market that can actually be considered safe and reliable. Why? Superior materials and engineering. No shortcuts taken, ever. It's why ours are the only adapters that can't be overloaded, won't melt, and won't catch fire.
The conductive metal parts inside our adapters are made of phosphorus copper, which is second only to silver in terms of conductivity. It's the same stuff the wires in your appliance's power cord, and the wires in the wall connected to the outlet, are usually made of. Generic adapters use brass, which is about 70% less conductive than copper. Lower conductivity is bad, because A) the adapter can't handle as much electricity, and B) lower conductivity means higher electrical resistance, which creates heat. Heat is bad!
Furthermore, all connection points inside our adapters are riveted. No moving parts, no "floating" parts. Not only does this make our adapters virtually unbreakable, this combined with the phosphorus copper is why our plug adapters are the only adapters capable of handling the full amperage of the wall outlet they're plugged into. Generic adapters use "pressed-on" connections, which is another reason they can only handle up to 6 amps. It's also why they tend to break so easily.
Meanwhile, our adapter's outer shell is made of PC V110 polycarbonate, as opposed to the ABS plastic used in generic adapters. Polycarbonate has twice the impact strength of ABS, which is why other adapters break and ours don't. Polycarbonate is also roughly twice as heat-resistant as ABS plastic, which is why our adapters don't melt. Polycarbonate is extremely flame-retardant (some engineers even consider it to be "self-extinguishing" if, for example, you were to put a torch to it) while ABS plastic ignites at a lower temperature than propane! And most importantly, polycarbonate is a far superior electrical insulator. If the most important thing inside an adapter is conductivity, the most important thing on the outside is non-conductivity.
IEC 60884-2-5 AMPERAGE RATING / OVERLOAD TEMPERATURE RISE TEST RESULTS | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Plug Adapter | for outlet type | Rated Amps | Tested Amps | Tested time | Temp Rise (Kelvin) |
EA5 | Type B North American NEMA 5-15 | 15.0 Amps | 18.8 Amps | 1 Hour | 36.3 K |
EA6 | Type A Japanese JIS C 8303 | 15.0 Amps | 18.8 Amps | 1 Hour | 36.3 K |
EA18 | North American NEMA 6-15 | 15.0 Amps | 18.8 Amps | 1 Hour | 36.3 K |
EA21 | North American NEMA 6-20 | 20.0 Amps | 25.0 Amps | 1 Hour | 43.2 K |
EA7 | Type G British BS-1363 | 13.0 Amps | 16.3 Amps | 1 Hour | 35.5 K |
EA9 | Type E/F European CEE 7/4-5 Schuko | 16.0 Amps | 20.0 Amps | 1 Hour | 36.1 K |
EA9C | Type C European CEE 7/16 Europlug | 10.0 Amps | 14.0 Amps | 1 Hour | 30.0 K |
EA11 | Type J Swiss SEV 1011 | 10.0 Amps | 14.0 Amps | 1 Hour | 32.5 K |
EA12 | Type L Italian CEI 23-16/VII | 10.0 Amps | 14.0 Amps | 1 Hour | 32.5 K |
EA16 | Type I Australian AS-3112 | 10.0 Amps | 14.0 Amps | 1 Hour | 23.8 K |
All Generic Adapters | 3 to 6 Amps | 4.2 to 8.4 Amps | 1 Hour | 44.8 to 120 K (!!!) |
All that is why our EA Series plug adapters are the only adapters the US Military will use. It's why our adapters are used in US foreign embassies all around the world. It's why they're used in Microsoft and Google data centers. It's why Boeing installs them in their aircraft. If they're not willing to chance it when it comes to their mission-critical applications, why would you? Be safe! Electricity is serious business. Buy your adapters from people who actually take it seriously.


EA7 Type G Travel Plug Adapter for the UK, Ireland (BS-1363)
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Todd Systems SD-13 220-240V to 110-120V Stepdown Autotransformer (1000 Watt Capacity)
Todd Systems SD-13 220-240V to 110-120V Stepdown Autotransformer (1000 Watt Capacity)

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Availability : In stock
If you need to operate a North American 110-120 volt appliance in a country where the voltage supplied by the electrical outlets is 220-240 volts, you need a step down transformer. Step down transformers take the 220-240 volt electricity supplied in most countries, and convert the voltage down to 110-120 volts for use by the appliance.
- Todd Systems has been manufacturing transformers for industrial environments and the military for over 40 years.
- All Todd Systems transformers are designed and manufactured in the U.S.A.
- All Todd Systems transformers are precision wound and insulated with the latest hi-tech, insulating materials. The core laminations are of high grade annealed silicon steel, designed to keep heating to a minimum.
- All transformers are impregnated with a modified polyester heat cured varnish, which seals the transformer, thus protecting the electrical windings from moisture and contamination.
- Metal housings are baked enamel finished, and all Todd Systems transformers meet UL and IEC specifications.
- Every Todd Systems transformer is thoroughly tested, twice, and thoroughly inspected to ensure top quality. The result of this use of superior materials, advanced design, and complete 100% testing is long, trouble-free transformer life.
PLEASE NOTE: All Todd Systems products are "custom built" in that, while base models are stocked in large quantities, configuration options (such as power cord length/type, etc.) are installed on a per-order basis to suit the particular configuration desired. This is usually accomplished quickly, with the product shipping within 24 hours, but that varies from day to day based on volume. Therefore, we ask that you ALWAYS allow for at least 2 or 3 days lead time to ship.
SD-13 Configuration Options:
Model # | Cord/Plug | Outlet | TEMPGUARD | VA | Amps | Weight | Height | Width | Depth | |
SD-13G | NEMA 5-15 | NEMA 5-15 | No | 1000 VA | 8.7 A | 13-3/4 lbs | 4-5/8" | 3-7/8" | 6" | |
SD-13GTC | NEMA 5-15 | NEMA 5-15 | YES | |||||||
SD-13SC | CEE 7/7 Schuko | NEMA 5-15 | No | |||||||
SD-13SCTC | CEE 7/7 Schuko | NEMA 5-15 | YES | |||||||
SD-13UK | British BS-1363 | NEMA 5-15 | No | |||||||
SD-13UKTC | British BS-1363 | NEMA 5-15 | YES |
About TEMPGUARD, the ultimate thermal protection against overload:
- If an appliance exceeds a normal transformer's VA (wattage) rating, the transformer will eventually overheat and burn out, destroying the transformer, and potentially creating a fire hazard.
- A TEMPGUARD transformer turns itself off automatically before any damage can be done to the transformer from overload and subsequent overheating.
- After a TEMPGUARD transformer cools down, it will turn itself back on automatically.
- A TEMPGUARD transformer will continue to turn itself off and on when the thermal threshold is crossed, with no damage done.


Energizer EN180 Cup Style 12V DC to 120V AC Power Inverter (180 Watt Capacity)
Energizer EN180 Cup Style 12V DC to 120V AC Power Inverter (180 Watt Capacity)

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Availability : In stock
The World’s Smallest Cup Inverter™ This 180 watt inverter will allow you to power your mobile devices in your car, boat or RV. This cup inverter is ultra compact, plugs into your vehicle’s DC auxiliary power socket or attaches to a car battery, and fits securely in most vehicles' cup holders. With 4 USB ports and 1 standard North American outlet, you can run and charge up to 5 devices at once, keeping you connected wherever you go.
- 180 watts continuous / 360 watts peak power
- Powers up to 5 devices at once
- Ultra Silent (no internal fan)
- Four (4) USB charging ports provide 2.1 amps (shared)
- Tablet Charging compatible from USB ports
- Fits securely into most cup holders
- One (1) standard North American AC outlet


Energizer EN180 Cup Style 12V DC to 120V AC Power Inverter (180 Watt Capacity)
Save: 29% off
EA16 Type I Travel Plug Adapter for Australia, China (AS 3112 / CPCS-CCC)
EA16 Type I Travel Plug Adapter for Australia, China (AS 3112 / CPCS-CCC)

3 Reviews
Save: 20% off
Availability : In stock
This plug adapter changes the shape of an appliance's plug so that it can plug into a Type I (Australian AS 3112 / Chinese CPCS-CCC) or a Type I (Argentine IRAM 2073) wall outlet.
The receptacle side of the adapter can accept any standard household plug type from any country, except the Type M (South African SABS 1661) plug.
The plug side is a Type I (Australian AS 3112) plug. The adapter's blade contacts are 6.5 x 1.6mm, and the live and neutral blades are angled 30° to vertical at a nominal pitch of 13.7mm. The plug is grounded and polarized.
Our EA Series plug adapters have recently been completely re-engineered from the inside out. It's the first significant advancement in plug adapter technology in 25 years! The redesigned internal structure makes these plug adapters the only ones on the market that meet IEC 60884-2-5 Amperage Rating / Temperature Rise standards.
Don't know what that means? We'll explain why it's incredibly important. But in the meantime, here's the short answer: It's the reason why our adapters are the only ones the US Military, the US Department of State, the US Department of Homeland Security, and 17 US Foreign Embassies trust enough to use for their mission-critical applications.
Be safe! Don't let this happen to you!
Oh, it happens all the time. Which is why the "Just buy an adapter when you get there, you can find them anywhere for a few bucks." comments you may have seen on travel forums are bad advice. Most adapters sold in foreign countries would be illegal to sell in the United States and Canada. Why? Because they wouldn't pass safety standards.
It's honestly frightening how little thought many people give to something that stands between them and the complete destruction of their expensive devices and appliances. Or worse yet, a fire. Electricity is a deadly serious matter. Give it the respect it deserves. Don't let a few bucks, or just plain indifference, put you in a potentially dangerous situation. Plug adapters are not "all the same." Not by a long shot.
Most plug adapters, even ones sold in the US and Canada, can only handle up to 6 amps of electricity. (As long as they're labeled as such, they're "legal" but that doesn't do you much good if you don't know or care what "amps" means.) The problem is that every household wall outlet in the world is capable of supplying at least 10 amps. In the UK, it's 13 amps. In North America, it's 15 amps. In the EU, it's 16 amps. What that means is that a generic plug adapter can easily be overloaded. An 1800-watt hair dryer draws 15 amps, for example. That's more than twice the amps a generic plug adapter can handle. What happens then? Well, first the adapter melts. Then it catches fire. Quickly. The horror stories are numerous. Don't let it happen to you!
Our EA Series adapters don't have that extremely serious problem, because they're the only adapters on the market that are rated to the full amperage of the wall outlet they're designed to plug into. (Furthermore, they're actually tested at 25% to 40% higher than that, for a full hour.) Bottom line? Our EA Series adapters simply can't be overloaded. You'd trip a breaker (or "blow a fuse" if you're of a certain age) in the building before you could ever approach any kind of overload that would cause our adapters to melt or catch fire. It's the reason why the US Military and State Department will use only our adapters.
Don't be fooled by mass-marketed knockoffs. They're unreliable at best, legitimately dangerous at worst.
Image 1 is a typical plug adapter you'd buy from a street vendor abroad. Shockingly, these are also available in US and Canadian "travel shops" at airports and online. They're bad news. They're usually not labeled to indicate their amperage/wattage ratings, and you're lucky if they support a paltry 3 amps. You might as well try to connect your device or appliance with a couple of paper clips wrapped in rubber bands. (Note: Please don't try that.) The outer shell is made of ABS plastic, which will melt and catch fire within 30 seconds if overloaded.
Image 2 is a slightly better constructed adapter, the kind you might find in an airport travel shop or online. But it still only supports 6 amps, or about half of what the outlet is capable of supplying. Worse yet, see that second receptacle on the top? These adapters are often marketed as "2 in 1" as if that's a feature. It's not a feature, it's a bug. That adapter is just begging to be overloaded. It can barely support the amps being drawn by one device or appliance, let alone two.
Images 3 and 4 are so-called "multi-adapters" or "all in one" adapters. And that seems like a good idea, at least in theory. Unfortunately, as a practical matter, they present a multitude of problems. For one thing, moving parts. Moving parts are bad. There's a reason power cords and their plugs don't have moving parts. Moving parts (or, worse yet, "floating parts" which only stay connected because they're pressed together, but aren't permanently connected) can be dangerous when those parts work themselves out of position. Especially when those parts are carrying electric current. Ever see someone hold two bare wires close together, but not touching, and there's an electrical arc that looks like a tiny lightning bolt? Yeah. That's what happens when "floating parts" aren't quite where they're supposed to be. And needless to say, that kind of situation isn't exactly ideal.
Furthermore, in an effort to keep these overly-complicated adapters as compact and lightweight (and profitable) as possible, manufacturers cut back on the materials. Less metal on the inside equals less conductivity, which results in more electrical resistance, which creates heat. Heat is bad. Especially when the outer shell of the adapter is made of cheap ABS plastic, which will melt and catch fire. Cheap materials + as little of those materials as possible + moving/floating parts = breakage. Don't even think about dropping it.
Our EA Series Plug Adapters: the only ones that are actually built the right way, with the right materials
We'll say it again: plug adapters are not "all the same." Not by a long shot. Our EA Series plug adapters are the only adapters on the market that can actually be considered safe and reliable. Why? Superior materials and engineering. No shortcuts taken, ever. It's why ours are the only adapters that can't be overloaded, won't melt, and won't catch fire.
The conductive metal parts inside our adapters are made of phosphorus copper, which is second only to silver in terms of conductivity. It's the same stuff the wires in your appliance's power cord, and the wires in the wall connected to the outlet, are usually made of. Generic adapters use brass, which is about 70% less conductive than copper. Lower conductivity is bad, because A) the adapter can't handle as much electricity, and B) lower conductivity means higher electrical resistance, which creates heat. Heat is bad!
Furthermore, all connection points inside our adapters are riveted. No moving parts, no "floating" parts. Not only does this make our adapters virtually unbreakable, this combined with the phosphorus copper is why our plug adapters are the only adapters capable of handling the full amperage of the wall outlet they're plugged into. Generic adapters use "pressed-on" connections, which is another reason they can only handle up to 6 amps. It's also why they tend to break so easily.
Meanwhile, our adapter's outer shell is made of PC V110 polycarbonate, as opposed to the ABS plastic used in generic adapters. Polycarbonate has twice the impact strength of ABS, which is why other adapters break and ours don't. Polycarbonate is also roughly twice as heat-resistant as ABS plastic, which is why our adapters don't melt. Polycarbonate is extremely flame-retardant (some engineers even consider it to be "self-extinguishing" if, for example, you were to put a torch to it) while ABS plastic ignites at a lower temperature than propane! And most importantly, polycarbonate is a far superior electrical insulator. If the most important thing inside an adapter is conductivity, the most important thing on the outside is non-conductivity.
IEC 60884-2-5 AMPERAGE RATING / OVERLOAD TEMPERATURE RISE TEST RESULTS | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Plug Adapter | for outlet type | Rated Amps | Tested Amps | Tested time | Temp Rise (Kelvin) |
EA5 | Type B North American NEMA 5-15 | 15.0 Amps | 18.8 Amps | 1 Hour | 36.3 K |
EA6 | Type A Japanese JIS C 8303 | 15.0 Amps | 18.8 Amps | 1 Hour | 36.3 K |
EA18 | North American NEMA 6-15 | 15.0 Amps | 18.8 Amps | 1 Hour | 36.3 K |
EA21 | North American NEMA 6-20 | 20.0 Amps | 25.0 Amps | 1 Hour | 43.2 K |
EA7 | Type G British BS-1363 | 13.0 Amps | 16.3 Amps | 1 Hour | 35.5 K |
EA9 | Type E/F European CEE 7/4-5 Schuko | 16.0 Amps | 20.0 Amps | 1 Hour | 36.1 K |
EA9C | Type C European CEE 7/16 Europlug | 10.0 Amps | 14.0 Amps | 1 Hour | 30.0 K |
EA11 | Type J Swiss SEV 1011 | 10.0 Amps | 14.0 Amps | 1 Hour | 32.5 K |
EA12 | Type L Italian CEI 23-16/VII | 10.0 Amps | 14.0 Amps | 1 Hour | 32.5 K |
EA16 | Type I Australian AS-3112 | 10.0 Amps | 14.0 Amps | 1 Hour | 23.8 K |
All Generic Adapters | 3 to 6 Amps | 4.2 to 8.4 Amps | 1 Hour | 44.8 to 120 K (!!!) |
All that is why our EA Series plug adapters are the only adapters the US Military will use. It's why our adapters are used in US foreign embassies all around the world. It's why they're used in Microsoft and Google data centers. It's why Boeing installs them in their aircraft. If they're not willing to chance it when it comes to their mission-critical applications, why would you? Be safe! Electricity is serious business. Buy your adapters from people who actually take it seriously.


EA16 Type I Travel Plug Adapter for Australia, China (AS 3112 / CPCS-CCC)
Save: 20% off
Electrical Plug/Outlet and Voltage Information for Germany
Electrical Plug/Outlet and Voltage Information for Germany

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Availability : Out of stock
Wall outlets in the Federal Republic of Germany are Type C (CEE 7/16 Europlug) and Type F (CEE 7/4 Schuko) and supply electricity at 230 volts AC / 50 Hz frequency. Chances are you're reading this because you're traveling there from the United States or Canada and are bringing things that will need to be plugged in there. The good news is that it's not nearly as complicated as you may think. In fact, in most cases, it's actually pretty simple. Once you've determined the electrical input requirements of the specific device(s) or appliance(s) you need to plug in abroad, you're already about 90% there. And that's also pretty simple, actually.
Note: While Type C and Type F outlets are very similar, their respective plugs' pins are different in size, and therefore ultimately they're physically incompatible and not interchangeable. Type C pins are 4.0mm in diameter, while Type F pins are 4.8mm in diameter. Outlets in any given specific building or room could be of either type, so you'll need to account for both.
Laptops, tablets / iPads, smartphones / iPhones, digital cameras and other digital-age "techie" electronic devices that run on batteries
These devices generally have chargers that are already compatible with any standard household voltage from 100 volts in Japan, to 240 volts in the UK. Simply check the charger's label and look for something to the effect of "Input: 100-240V"
If your charger says that, then stop right there! Because, guess what, you're done! Yes, it's just that easy.
Since your charger is already compatible with the 220 volt electricity coming from the European wall outlet, the only issue is changing the shape of the plug so that it can actually interface with the outlet. And that can be accomplished with a simple plug adapter. The adapter for a Type C outlet is our item #EA9C and the adapter for a Type F outlet is our item #EA9.
Hair dryers, curling irons, hair straighteners / flat irons and other bathroom appliances
As manufacturers smarten up to the fact that people tend to want to travel abroad with these things, more and more newer models are built to be dual-voltage compatible. Dual-voltage "travel models" are usually available just about anywhere you'd ordinarily buy this kind of thing, and they often don't cost any more than a regular single-voltage model.
Look for a voltage selector switch, usually somewhere on the handle. Don't worry about whether it says "110/220V" or "115/230V" or "120/240V" or "125/250V" because it's basically all the same, the specific numbers don't really matter. Simply set the switch to the higher voltage setting, attach a plug adapter (our item #EA9C or EA9 for the European Type C or Type F outlet) to the cord's plug, and you're all set.
But while dual-voltage models are widely available these days, most hair dryers, curling irons, etc. are still single-voltage. And if you plug a single-voltage (120 volts for the US and Canada) appliance into a 220-240 volt outlet, even with a plug adapter, you'll "fry" it, because 220-240 volts is just too much for the appliance to handle. You could even start a fire. If you don't see a voltage selector switch on the appliance, it's almost certainly single-voltage.
So what do you do if yours is single-voltage? Well, one option would be to buy a new one that's dual-voltage. But that can be expensive, especially if yours is fairly high-end, and/or if we're talking about a number of different appliances. And, hey, we can get attached to our particular bathroom appliances. We get it.
Another option is to use a voltage converter. Like, for example, our item #PB1650. A voltage converter will "step down" the voltage from 220-240 volts supplied by the outlet to 110-120 volts so that you can safely use the appliance without "frying" it. A voltage converter is often more economical than replacing one or more appliances, and you can use it with your hair dryer and curling iron and whatever else (one appliance at a time.) You'll also still need an adapter (item #EA9C or EA9 for a Type C or Type F European outlet) so that the voltage converter can plug into the European outlet. Outlet adapter voltage converter appliance. Problem solved!
PLEASE NOTE: While curling irons, flat irons and such are usually around 300-500 watts, hair dryers can sometimes be 1500-2000 watts! The model pictured above is actually 1875 watts, it says so right there on the side in big bold letters. Good thing it's dual-voltage, because a voltage converter wouldn't be able to handle it. Voltage converters only support up to 1600 watts. So if you have a single-voltage hair dryer that needs more than 1600 watts, you're out of luck. You'll need to buy a dual-voltage model.
CPAP and BiPAP Machines
Most newer model CPAP and BiPAP machines are multi-voltage compatible, from 100 volts in Japan to 240 volts in the UK, and therefore only need a simple plug adapter (in this case, for a Type C or Type F European outlet, that would be our item #EA9C or EA9) to change the shape of the plug so that it can interface with the foreign outlet.
To confirm this for your particular CPAP or BiPAP machine, check the label on its power supply. Most of them use a "brick" type power supply (if you're of a certain age, you may refer to this as an AC adapter) that's a lot like the kind you'd find with a laptop. Check its label and look for something to the effect of "Input: 100-240V"
If your machine's power supply says that, then just attach an adapter to its plug and you're all set!
Older models may be only compatible with a single voltage (for example, "Input: 120V") and if that's the case, then the next question is, is the "brick" power supply detachable? It probably is. If so, then you could just replace that part with one that's multi-voltage compatible. Power supplies like this are converting the AC power coming from the wall outlet to low-voltage direct current (DC) power for use by the appliance. The appliance itself runs on DC. So, for about $20, you could replace just that part with a multi-voltage equivalent. Just make sure it outputs the same DC voltage (usually 5, 12 or 24 volts DC) and amperage / wattage, and that its connector matches the connector on your CPAP or BiPAP machine. Then just attach an EA9C or EA9 adapter to the new multi-voltage power supply, and you're good to go!
Or, as a last resort, you could use a voltage transformer. A voltage transformer will convert the voltage from 220-240 volts at the outlet, to 110-120 volts at the plug, so that you can safely use your CPAP or BiPAP machine abroad. The downside is that voltage transformers can be fairly bulky and heavy. They're not exactly the most convenient things to carry around with you. But hey, if you've got no other choice, a voltage transformer will do the job.
Whatever you do, don't mistake a voltage converter for a voltage transformer. They're entirely different things, and while voltage converters like you'd use for a hair dryer are smaller and lighter, they're not suitable for electronics or devices like CPAP and BiPAP machines.
Consumer Grade Audio/Video Equipment, including Televisions, A/V Receivers, CD/DVD/Blu-Ray Players, Game Consoles, Etc.
The short answer? Don't even bother. It's probably not worth the trouble.
The somewhat longer answer: When it comes to audio/video equipment, the electrical input is probably the least of your worries. Even if you're able to properly supply electricity to the equipment, there are numerous other compatibility issues which need to be addressed. And even if you address them all, you'll probably end up in a situation where the cure is worse than the disease -- hundreds of dollars worth of gadgets and cables scattered all over the place, and conversion after conversion, each of which (assuming they even work) degrading the eventual output to the point of frustration.
The bottom line is that A/V equipment just isn't built to be taken abroad. Even if your television is 100-240V multi-voltage compatible, there are differences in scan rates (30/60/120 frames per second in North America vs. 25/50/110 frames per second in Europe, for example) and broadcast standards (PAL vs. NTSC vs. SECAM) and tuning frequencies and DVD/Blu-Ray region coding, and on and on like that. It's a mess.
You'd need to talk to an A/V expert if you're really REALLY intent on taking your A/V equipment abroad. But even then, the answer will probably be the same: it's just not worth all the trouble. Manufacturers deliberately build these various incompatibilities in specifically so that A/V equipment can't be used outside of the country / region for which it's intended to be bought, sold and used. You could try to fight The Man on this, but The Man is almost certainly going to win.
Now, you might be saying "Okay, but I'm going to be running a completely closed system when I get there. All my equipment is American, and I won't be bringing any signals in from the outside. Just my own DVDs, maybe some internet streaming like Netflix, and stuff from my PC. Shouldn't that be okay?" Maybe, but again, probably not. You could give it a shot with a voltage transformer, but even then, there will probably be issues. Voltage transformers output "modified sine wave" or "stepped wave" electricity, and A/V equipment can be particularly sensitive to that. The degree to which it degrades the picture/sound output varies depending on the equipment, but it can be a significant problem. And signals from internet streaming services like Netflix, Hulu, PS Vue, Amazon, etc. will be fed to your devices according to the local standards, which will be incompatible with the standards your equipment was built for. Again, it's a mess.
We get it, you want to conquer this thing. The best way to do that? Concede, regroup at Red Lobster, and live to fight another day.
Small Kitchen Appliances, including Mixers, Toasters, Coffee Makers, Slow Cookers, Blenders, Food Processors, Microwave Ovens, etc.
For the sake of simplicity, let's just say small kitchen appliances are "never" dual-voltage or multi-voltage. Surely there are a handful of exceptions out there somewhere, but in the US and Canada, there's basically a 100% chance that your kitchen appliances are only compatible with 110-120 volt North American electricity.
But most small kitchen appliances can be safely (albeit less-effectively) used abroad with a voltage transformer. A voltage transformer takes the 220-240 volt electricity supplied by the outlet, and changes it to 110-120 volts for use by the appliance. (For a Type C or Type F European outlet, you would also need to attach a plug adapter, our item #EA9C or EA9, to the voltage transformer's plug, so that the transformer can plug into the British outlet.)
You'll need to determine the wattage requirement for your specific appliance. Some things, like hand mixers, require relatively little wattage, while things with heating elements, like coffee makers and toasters, require a much higher amount of wattage. Check the label on the bottom or back of your appliance, where the brand name and model number appear, and locate its electrical specifications. It should look something like "Input: 120V 60Hz 240W" where W indicates the wattage. You'll need a voltage transformer that's capable of supporting that amount of wattage or greater.
Sometimes the label will list amps (A) instead of watts (W) and if that's the case, simply multiply the volts by the amps to get a reasonable approximation of the watts. For example: "Input: 120V 60Hz 2.0A" 120 volts x 2.0 amps = 240 watts.
Want to use a power strip to gain additional outlets and plug multiple appliances into a single transformer? You can do that. But the transformer's wattage rating needs to be greater than the total combined wattage of all the appliances plugged into it at the same time. So for a 500 watt mixer, and a 500 watt blender, the transformer's capacity needs to be greater than 1000 watts. Also, make sure to use a simple power strip, and not a surge protector. Voltage transformers and surge protectors don't play nice together, and in certain rare but possible circumstances, it could create a fire or electrocution hazard.
Voltage transformers can be bulky and heavy, particularly at higher wattages. A 3000 watt transformer can weigh upwards of 35 pounds! So, while you may love that 2000 watt toaster, you'll want to think about whether it's really worth the trouble of plugging it into something that weighs over 30 pounds and is larger than the appliance itself.
Appliances with motors and clocks/timers will be affected by the difference in frequency (60Hz vs. 50Hz) and unfortunately there's just no way around that. Fortunately, in most cases, it's not a very significant issue. A motor will rotate one-sixth more slowly on 50Hz as opposed to 60Hz. So your mixer will run about 17% more slowly, as will your blender or food processor. But that's usually not a big deal, it might just take a little getting used to. A slightly more significant issue might be the timer on your microwave. If you set it for 5 minutes, it's going to actually run for 6 minutes, because the difference in frequency is making the timer count one-sixth more slowly. Again, this can usually be overcome by just getting used to making some mental adjustments when using the appliance. The problem gets more significant the longer the appliance is used at a time. For example, over an 8 hour slow cooker cycle, the timer will be off by more than a full hour!
Major Household Appliances, including Refrigerators, Air Conditioners, Washing Machines, Dishwashers, etc.
Most major appliances with fractional horsepower motors (like a washing machine or dishwasher) or compressors (like a refrigerator or air conditioner) can be safely used abroad with a voltage transformer. However, these kinds of appliances require a special type of voltage transformer known as a "3-tap" or "triple-tap" transformer.
Why? Fractional horsepower motors (FHP motors) and compressors are particularly heat-sensitive to the difference in the frequency (60Hz vs. 50Hz) of the alternating current. For smaller motors like those in small kitchen appliances, it's not a very significant issue. But larger motors, particularly ones that either run non-stop (refrigerators) or that continuously stop-and-start (washing machines) will overheat and burn out in short order if the difference in frequency isn't compensated for. A triple-tap transformer is an effective workaround for that issue.
To avoid overheating these FHP motors and/or compressors, a 60Hz motor should be run at roughly 10% lower voltage when operated on 50Hz frequency. So, for example, a 115V 60Hz motor should be run at roughly 100-105V 50Hz. Normal step-down voltage transformers only output 110-120V, and will therefore allow the frequency difference to overheat and burn out the motor. On the other hand, a triple-tap transformer outputs 100-105V, compensating for the difference in frequency and protecting the motor from overheating and eventual burnout.
Exceptions to this are clothes dryers, stoves/ovens/cooktops, and US and Canadian air conditioners intended to be run on a North American 220-240 volt circuit. You're probably already aware of the fact that clothes dryers and cooking appliances (stoves/ovens) typically plug into different types of outlets to begin with, as opposed to normal household outlets. This is because those appliances run on two-phase circuits. A normal household circuit has one 120 volt phase wire and one neutral wire, whereas a circuit for a clothes dryer or stove/oven has two 120 volt phase wires. This is also different from Europe, the UK and other countries where normal household outlets are 220-240 volts, because in those countries, those circuits consist of a single 220-240 volt phase wire and a neutral wire, as opposed to two 120 volt phase wires. Bottom line? They're incompatible, even with a voltage transformer. A local electrician may be able to solve the problem, but it's going to require some re-wiring. A gadget like a voltage transformer isn't going to help.
Lamps, Lights, Wall Sconces, Chandeliers, and Other Lighting Fixtures
Okay, let's get the easy part out of the way first: Chandeliers, wall sconces, fluorescent lighting fixtures, etc. are permanently-installed and hard-wired directly to the building's electrical system. Consult with a local electrician. There's probably a solution, but it will require some re-wiring. A gadget like a voltage converter or transformer doesn't apply to this kind of situation. (Well, it might, but it would be something an electrician needs to supply and install into a wall, or in the ceiling, etc.)
Freestanding lamps may be able to be used with a voltage transformer, albeit with some associated issues which may prove to be deal-breakers.
For one thing, are you even able to easily obtain replacement bulbs? In North America, light bulbs generally have screw-type connectors, whereas abroad they usually have bayonet-type connectors. Powering a lamp via a voltage transformer is likely to shorten the lifespan of the bulbs significantly, so expect to have to change bulbs out frequently.
Fluorescent bulbs are sensitive to the difference in frequency (60Hz vs. 50Hz) which will result in an annoying flicker if the frequency isn't what the bulb was designed for. Unfortunately, there's no practical solution for the frequency issue.
And then there's the matter of voltage transformers not exactly being the prettiest things in the world. Let's say your lamp has five 100-watt bulbs. You'd need at least a 500-watt voltage transformer, which isn't exactly tiny and unobtrusive. Perhaps you could conceal it behind a couch, or a plant, or something like that. But otherwise, your beautiful lamp would have a bulky, ugly piece of machinery sitting right next to it. You'll want to ask yourself whether it's really worth it.
The other solution would be to have an electrician completely re-wire the lamp, including the bulb sockets, if it's even possible to do so given any physical limitations/barriers based on the way the lamp was originally built. The question remains: Is it really worth all the trouble?
Lately, LED string lights seem to be gaining in popularity, and these things are often shipped directly from China or Japan via marketplace web sites like eBay. If you're buying LED string lights, pay very close attention to their electrical input requirements before you buy. If the information isn't published, ask the seller, and be sure they're telling you the truth.
LED string lights are often powered by way of a "brick" type power supply or an AC adapter, similar to the kind of power supply a laptop uses. And those are often multi-voltage compatible. Check its label and look for something like "Input: 100-240V" and if it says that, then you're in luck, because you just need a simple plug adapter that matches the type of outlet you need to plug into.
Otherwise, you may end up with LED string lights which were designed for Chinese 220 volt electricity, or Japanese 100 volt electricity. And at that point, your only solution is a voltage transformer. You'll need to determine how many watts your light string requires, and select a voltage transformer that can handle the wattage required by the lights.
Power Tools and Other Shop / Factory Machines
Charging stations for many newer model cordless power tools are multi-voltage compatible. Check the label on the bottom of the charging station and look for something to the effect of "Input: 100-240V"
If that's the case for your particular tool's charging station, then the difference in voltage is irrelevant, and the only issue is changing the shape of the charging station's plug so that it can physically interface with the foreign outlet. That requires only a simple plug adapter (for a Type C or Type F European outlet, that would be our item #EA9C or EA9.) The tool itself is running on direct current (DC) power from the battery, so things like frequency (Hz) are also irrelevant. Frequency only applies to alternating current (AC) power.
Corded power tools are a different and more complicated situation, because they're running directly on the alternating current (AC) power coming from the wall outlet, and therefore things like frequency (Hz) come into play. Corded power tools built to be powered by 110-120 volt North American electricity can be safely powered abroad by way of a voltage transformer, which will change the 220-240 volt electricity coming from the wall outlet to 110-120 volt power for use by the tool.
Check the nameplate on the tool, where the brand name and model number appear, and determine the tool's wattage (W) requirement. Sometimes the nameplate will list amps (A) instead of watts (W) and if that's the case, simply multiply the volts by the amps to get a reasonable approximation of the watts. For example: "Input: 120V 60Hz 10.0A" 120 volts x 10.0 amps = 1200 watts. You'll need a voltage transformer with a wattage capacity sufficient to handle the tool's wattage load.
In normal household applications, a "regular" voltage transformer will do the job just fine. But "regular" transformers are vented, and that can be a problem if you're in a shop or factory or other "harsh environment" where, for example, there might be sawdust flying all over the place. Sawdust gets inside the transformer, stuff burns up, bad situation. Don't even get us started on the potential hazards of thrown metal shavings coming into contact with other metal which is carrying electric current. Yikes!
If you're in an industrial environment, you might want to consider one of our Todd Systems transformers instead. The outer chassis of Todd Systems transformers are sealed with a modified polyester heat-cured varnish, thus protecting the transformer's internal metal windings from moisture, airborne particulates and other contaminants. They're (quite a bit) more expensive, but not nearly as expensive as a fire. (They can also be bolted down to a workbench or sawhorse or other work surface, which can be a significant feature.)
Back to the frequency issue.... Again, with cordless power tools, frequency isn't an issue because the tool itself is actually running on direct current (DC) power from the battery, and frequency only relates to alternating current (AC) power. But when a corded tool is running directly on AC power, the difference in frequency (60Hz vs. 50Hz) will affect the performance and the lifespan of the tool's fractional horsepower (FHP) motor.
One effect may not be all that significant. The difference in frequency will cause a 60Hz motor to rotate one-sixth more slowly when powered on 50Hz. That's objectively a 17% performance degradation, but how big an issue that is depends on the work being done. It might not even be noticeable with, for example, a drill. Or it might be a slight issue, but really just something you'll need to get used to. Or the tool being used may be entirely dependent on the motor running at a precise speed, and a 17% difference might be a deal-breaker. You'll need to draw your own conclusions on that.
The second effect is potentially a lot more serious. A 60Hz FHP motor will heat up a lot more quickly when run on 50Hz. Again, the degree to which this is significant depends on the work being done. If it's a circular saw, which will make a cut for a couple minutes, then sit for a couple minutes until the next cut, chances are it's never going to get to the point where the difference in frequency causes the motor to overheat and/or potentially burn out. But if it's a band saw, which will be running continuously for hours, the difference in frequency is likely to burn out the motor pretty quickly. Again, that's an assessment you'll need to make.
As a workaround for the overheating issue, you might consider a "3-tap" or "triple-tap" transformer. To avoid overheating a long-running FHP motor, a 60Hz motor should be run at roughly 10% lower voltage when operated on 50Hz frequency. So, for example, a 115V 60Hz motor should be run at roughly 100-105V 50Hz. Normal step-down voltage transformers only output 110-120V, and will therefore allow the frequency difference to overheat and burn out the motor. On the other hand, a triple-tap transformer outputs 100-105V, compensating for the difference in frequency and protecting the motor from overheating and eventual burnout.


Electrical Plug/Outlet and Voltage Information for Greece
Electrical Plug/Outlet and Voltage Information for Greece

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Availability : Out of stock
Wall outlets in the Hellenic Republic (Greece) are Type C (CEE 7/16 Europlug) and Type F (CEE 7/4 Schuko) and supply electricity at 230 volts AC / 50 Hz frequency. Chances are you're reading this because you're traveling there from the United States or Canada and are bringing things that will need to be plugged in there. The good news is that it's not nearly as complicated as you may think. In fact, in most cases, it's actually pretty simple. Once you've determined the electrical input requirements of the specific device(s) or appliance(s) you need to plug in abroad, you're already about 90% there. And that's also pretty simple, actually.
Note: While Type C and Type F outlets are very similar, their respective plugs' pins are different in size, and therefore ultimately they're physically incompatible and not interchangeable. Type C pins are 4.0mm in diameter, while Type F pins are 4.8mm in diameter. Outlets in any given specific building or room could be of either type, so you'll need to account for both.
Laptops, tablets / iPads, smartphones / iPhones, digital cameras and other digital-age "techie" electronic devices that run on batteries
These devices generally have chargers that are already compatible with any standard household voltage from 100 volts in Japan, to 240 volts in the UK. Simply check the charger's label and look for something to the effect of "Input: 100-240V"
If your charger says that, then stop right there! Because, guess what, you're done! Yes, it's just that easy.
Since your charger is already compatible with the 220 volt electricity coming from the European wall outlet, the only issue is changing the shape of the plug so that it can actually interface with the outlet. And that can be accomplished with a simple plug adapter. The adapter for a Type C outlet is our item #EA9C and the adapter for a Type F outlet is our item #EA9.
Hair dryers, curling irons, hair straighteners / flat irons and other bathroom appliances
As manufacturers smarten up to the fact that people tend to want to travel abroad with these things, more and more newer models are built to be dual-voltage compatible. Dual-voltage "travel models" are usually available just about anywhere you'd ordinarily buy this kind of thing, and they often don't cost any more than a regular single-voltage model.
Look for a voltage selector switch, usually somewhere on the handle. Don't worry about whether it says "110/220V" or "115/230V" or "120/240V" or "125/250V" because it's basically all the same, the specific numbers don't really matter. Simply set the switch to the higher voltage setting, attach a plug adapter (our item #EA9C or EA9 for the European Type C or Type F outlet) to the cord's plug, and you're all set.
But while dual-voltage models are widely available these days, most hair dryers, curling irons, etc. are still single-voltage. And if you plug a single-voltage (120 volts for the US and Canada) appliance into a 220-240 volt outlet, even with a plug adapter, you'll "fry" it, because 220-240 volts is just too much for the appliance to handle. You could even start a fire. If you don't see a voltage selector switch on the appliance, it's almost certainly single-voltage.
So what do you do if yours is single-voltage? Well, one option would be to buy a new one that's dual-voltage. But that can be expensive, especially if yours is fairly high-end, and/or if we're talking about a number of different appliances. And, hey, we can get attached to our particular bathroom appliances. We get it.
Another option is to use a voltage converter. Like, for example, our item #PB1650. A voltage converter will "step down" the voltage from 220-240 volts supplied by the outlet to 110-120 volts so that you can safely use the appliance without "frying" it. A voltage converter is often more economical than replacing one or more appliances, and you can use it with your hair dryer and curling iron and whatever else (one appliance at a time.) You'll also still need an adapter (item #EA9C or EA9 for a Type C or Type F European outlet) so that the voltage converter can plug into the European outlet. Outlet adapter voltage converter appliance. Problem solved!
PLEASE NOTE: While curling irons, flat irons and such are usually around 300-500 watts, hair dryers can sometimes be 1500-2000 watts! The model pictured above is actually 1875 watts, it says so right there on the side in big bold letters. Good thing it's dual-voltage, because a voltage converter wouldn't be able to handle it. Voltage converters only support up to 1600 watts. So if you have a single-voltage hair dryer that needs more than 1600 watts, you're out of luck. You'll need to buy a dual-voltage model.
CPAP and BiPAP Machines
Most newer model CPAP and BiPAP machines are multi-voltage compatible, from 100 volts in Japan to 240 volts in the UK, and therefore only need a simple plug adapter (in this case, for a Type C or Type F European outlet, that would be our item #EA9C or EA9) to change the shape of the plug so that it can interface with the foreign outlet.
To confirm this for your particular CPAP or BiPAP machine, check the label on its power supply. Most of them use a "brick" type power supply (if you're of a certain age, you may refer to this as an AC adapter) that's a lot like the kind you'd find with a laptop. Check its label and look for something to the effect of "Input: 100-240V"
If your machine's power supply says that, then just attach an adapter to its plug and you're all set!
Older models may be only compatible with a single voltage (for example, "Input: 120V") and if that's the case, then the next question is, is the "brick" power supply detachable? It probably is. If so, then you could just replace that part with one that's multi-voltage compatible. Power supplies like this are converting the AC power coming from the wall outlet to low-voltage direct current (DC) power for use by the appliance. The appliance itself runs on DC. So, for about $20, you could replace just that part with a multi-voltage equivalent. Just make sure it outputs the same DC voltage (usually 5, 12 or 24 volts DC) and amperage / wattage, and that its connector matches the connector on your CPAP or BiPAP machine. Then just attach an EA9C or EA9 adapter to the new multi-voltage power supply, and you're good to go!
Or, as a last resort, you could use a voltage transformer. A voltage transformer will convert the voltage from 220-240 volts at the outlet, to 110-120 volts at the plug, so that you can safely use your CPAP or BiPAP machine abroad. The downside is that voltage transformers can be fairly bulky and heavy. They're not exactly the most convenient things to carry around with you. But hey, if you've got no other choice, a voltage transformer will do the job.
Whatever you do, don't mistake a voltage converter for a voltage transformer. They're entirely different things, and while voltage converters like you'd use for a hair dryer are smaller and lighter, they're not suitable for electronics or devices like CPAP and BiPAP machines.
Consumer Grade Audio/Video Equipment, including Televisions, A/V Receivers, CD/DVD/Blu-Ray Players, Game Consoles, Etc.
The short answer? Don't even bother. It's probably not worth the trouble.
The somewhat longer answer: When it comes to audio/video equipment, the electrical input is probably the least of your worries. Even if you're able to properly supply electricity to the equipment, there are numerous other compatibility issues which need to be addressed. And even if you address them all, you'll probably end up in a situation where the cure is worse than the disease -- hundreds of dollars worth of gadgets and cables scattered all over the place, and conversion after conversion, each of which (assuming they even work) degrading the eventual output to the point of frustration.
The bottom line is that A/V equipment just isn't built to be taken abroad. Even if your television is 100-240V multi-voltage compatible, there are differences in scan rates (30/60/120 frames per second in North America vs. 25/50/110 frames per second in Europe, for example) and broadcast standards (PAL vs. NTSC vs. SECAM) and tuning frequencies and DVD/Blu-Ray region coding, and on and on like that. It's a mess.
You'd need to talk to an A/V expert if you're really REALLY intent on taking your A/V equipment abroad. But even then, the answer will probably be the same: it's just not worth all the trouble. Manufacturers deliberately build these various incompatibilities in specifically so that A/V equipment can't be used outside of the country / region for which it's intended to be bought, sold and used. You could try to fight The Man on this, but The Man is almost certainly going to win.
Now, you might be saying "Okay, but I'm going to be running a completely closed system when I get there. All my equipment is American, and I won't be bringing any signals in from the outside. Just my own DVDs, maybe some internet streaming like Netflix, and stuff from my PC. Shouldn't that be okay?" Maybe, but again, probably not. You could give it a shot with a voltage transformer, but even then, there will probably be issues. Voltage transformers output "modified sine wave" or "stepped wave" electricity, and A/V equipment can be particularly sensitive to that. The degree to which it degrades the picture/sound output varies depending on the equipment, but it can be a significant problem. And signals from internet streaming services like Netflix, Hulu, PS Vue, Amazon, etc. will be fed to your devices according to the local standards, which will be incompatible with the standards your equipment was built for. Again, it's a mess.
We get it, you want to conquer this thing. The best way to do that? Concede, regroup at Red Lobster, and live to fight another day.
Small Kitchen Appliances, including Mixers, Toasters, Coffee Makers, Slow Cookers, Blenders, Food Processors, Microwave Ovens, etc.
For the sake of simplicity, let's just say small kitchen appliances are "never" dual-voltage or multi-voltage. Surely there are a handful of exceptions out there somewhere, but in the US and Canada, there's basically a 100% chance that your kitchen appliances are only compatible with 110-120 volt North American electricity.
But most small kitchen appliances can be safely (albeit less-effectively) used abroad with a voltage transformer. A voltage transformer takes the 220-240 volt electricity supplied by the outlet, and changes it to 110-120 volts for use by the appliance. (For a Type C or Type F European outlet, you would also need to attach a plug adapter, our item #EA9C or EA9, to the voltage transformer's plug, so that the transformer can plug into the British outlet.)
You'll need to determine the wattage requirement for your specific appliance. Some things, like hand mixers, require relatively little wattage, while things with heating elements, like coffee makers and toasters, require a much higher amount of wattage. Check the label on the bottom or back of your appliance, where the brand name and model number appear, and locate its electrical specifications. It should look something like "Input: 120V 60Hz 240W" where W indicates the wattage. You'll need a voltage transformer that's capable of supporting that amount of wattage or greater.
Sometimes the label will list amps (A) instead of watts (W) and if that's the case, simply multiply the volts by the amps to get a reasonable approximation of the watts. For example: "Input: 120V 60Hz 2.0A" 120 volts x 2.0 amps = 240 watts.
Want to use a power strip to gain additional outlets and plug multiple appliances into a single transformer? You can do that. But the transformer's wattage rating needs to be greater than the total combined wattage of all the appliances plugged into it at the same time. So for a 500 watt mixer, and a 500 watt blender, the transformer's capacity needs to be greater than 1000 watts. Also, make sure to use a simple power strip, and not a surge protector. Voltage transformers and surge protectors don't play nice together, and in certain rare but possible circumstances, it could create a fire or electrocution hazard.
Voltage transformers can be bulky and heavy, particularly at higher wattages. A 3000 watt transformer can weigh upwards of 35 pounds! So, while you may love that 2000 watt toaster, you'll want to think about whether it's really worth the trouble of plugging it into something that weighs over 30 pounds and is larger than the appliance itself.
Appliances with motors and clocks/timers will be affected by the difference in frequency (60Hz vs. 50Hz) and unfortunately there's just no way around that. Fortunately, in most cases, it's not a very significant issue. A motor will rotate one-sixth more slowly on 50Hz as opposed to 60Hz. So your mixer will run about 17% more slowly, as will your blender or food processor. But that's usually not a big deal, it might just take a little getting used to. A slightly more significant issue might be the timer on your microwave. If you set it for 5 minutes, it's going to actually run for 6 minutes, because the difference in frequency is making the timer count one-sixth more slowly. Again, this can usually be overcome by just getting used to making some mental adjustments when using the appliance. The problem gets more significant the longer the appliance is used at a time. For example, over an 8 hour slow cooker cycle, the timer will be off by more than a full hour!
Major Household Appliances, including Refrigerators, Air Conditioners, Washing Machines, Dishwashers, etc.
Most major appliances with fractional horsepower motors (like a washing machine or dishwasher) or compressors (like a refrigerator or air conditioner) can be safely used abroad with a voltage transformer. However, these kinds of appliances require a special type of voltage transformer known as a "3-tap" or "triple-tap" transformer.
Why? Fractional horsepower motors (FHP motors) and compressors are particularly heat-sensitive to the difference in the frequency (60Hz vs. 50Hz) of the alternating current. For smaller motors like those in small kitchen appliances, it's not a very significant issue. But larger motors, particularly ones that either run non-stop (refrigerators) or that continuously stop-and-start (washing machines) will overheat and burn out in short order if the difference in frequency isn't compensated for. A triple-tap transformer is an effective workaround for that issue.
To avoid overheating these FHP motors and/or compressors, a 60Hz motor should be run at roughly 10% lower voltage when operated on 50Hz frequency. So, for example, a 115V 60Hz motor should be run at roughly 100-105V 50Hz. Normal step-down voltage transformers only output 110-120V, and will therefore allow the frequency difference to overheat and burn out the motor. On the other hand, a triple-tap transformer outputs 100-105V, compensating for the difference in frequency and protecting the motor from overheating and eventual burnout.
Exceptions to this are clothes dryers, stoves/ovens/cooktops, and US and Canadian air conditioners intended to be run on a North American 220-240 volt circuit. You're probably already aware of the fact that clothes dryers and cooking appliances (stoves/ovens) typically plug into different types of outlets to begin with, as opposed to normal household outlets. This is because those appliances run on two-phase circuits. A normal household circuit has one 120 volt phase wire and one neutral wire, whereas a circuit for a clothes dryer or stove/oven has two 120 volt phase wires. This is also different from Europe, the UK and other countries where normal household outlets are 220-240 volts, because in those countries, those circuits consist of a single 220-240 volt phase wire and a neutral wire, as opposed to two 120 volt phase wires. Bottom line? They're incompatible, even with a voltage transformer. A local electrician may be able to solve the problem, but it's going to require some re-wiring. A gadget like a voltage transformer isn't going to help.
Lamps, Lights, Wall Sconces, Chandeliers, and Other Lighting Fixtures
Okay, let's get the easy part out of the way first: Chandeliers, wall sconces, fluorescent lighting fixtures, etc. are permanently-installed and hard-wired directly to the building's electrical system. Consult with a local electrician. There's probably a solution, but it will require some re-wiring. A gadget like a voltage converter or transformer doesn't apply to this kind of situation. (Well, it might, but it would be something an electrician needs to supply and install into a wall, or in the ceiling, etc.)
Freestanding lamps may be able to be used with a voltage transformer, albeit with some associated issues which may prove to be deal-breakers.
For one thing, are you even able to easily obtain replacement bulbs? In North America, light bulbs generally have screw-type connectors, whereas abroad they usually have bayonet-type connectors. Powering a lamp via a voltage transformer is likely to shorten the lifespan of the bulbs significantly, so expect to have to change bulbs out frequently.
Fluorescent bulbs are sensitive to the difference in frequency (60Hz vs. 50Hz) which will result in an annoying flicker if the frequency isn't what the bulb was designed for. Unfortunately, there's no practical solution for the frequency issue.
And then there's the matter of voltage transformers not exactly being the prettiest things in the world. Let's say your lamp has five 100-watt bulbs. You'd need at least a 500-watt voltage transformer, which isn't exactly tiny and unobtrusive. Perhaps you could conceal it behind a couch, or a plant, or something like that. But otherwise, your beautiful lamp would have a bulky, ugly piece of machinery sitting right next to it. You'll want to ask yourself whether it's really worth it.
The other solution would be to have an electrician completely re-wire the lamp, including the bulb sockets, if it's even possible to do so given any physical limitations/barriers based on the way the lamp was originally built. The question remains: Is it really worth all the trouble?
Lately, LED string lights seem to be gaining in popularity, and these things are often shipped directly from China or Japan via marketplace web sites like eBay. If you're buying LED string lights, pay very close attention to their electrical input requirements before you buy. If the information isn't published, ask the seller, and be sure they're telling you the truth.
LED string lights are often powered by way of a "brick" type power supply or an AC adapter, similar to the kind of power supply a laptop uses. And those are often multi-voltage compatible. Check its label and look for something like "Input: 100-240V" and if it says that, then you're in luck, because you just need a simple plug adapter that matches the type of outlet you need to plug into.
Otherwise, you may end up with LED string lights which were designed for Chinese 220 volt electricity, or Japanese 100 volt electricity. And at that point, your only solution is a voltage transformer. You'll need to determine how many watts your light string requires, and select a voltage transformer that can handle the wattage required by the lights.
Power Tools and Other Shop / Factory Machines
Charging stations for many newer model cordless power tools are multi-voltage compatible. Check the label on the bottom of the charging station and look for something to the effect of "Input: 100-240V"
If that's the case for your particular tool's charging station, then the difference in voltage is irrelevant, and the only issue is changing the shape of the charging station's plug so that it can physically interface with the foreign outlet. That requires only a simple plug adapter (for a Type C or Type F European outlet, that would be our item #EA9C or EA9.) The tool itself is running on direct current (DC) power from the battery, so things like frequency (Hz) are also irrelevant. Frequency only applies to alternating current (AC) power.
Corded power tools are a different and more complicated situation, because they're running directly on the alternating current (AC) power coming from the wall outlet, and therefore things like frequency (Hz) come into play. Corded power tools built to be powered by 110-120 volt North American electricity can be safely powered abroad by way of a voltage transformer, which will change the 220-240 volt electricity coming from the wall outlet to 110-120 volt power for use by the tool.
Check the nameplate on the tool, where the brand name and model number appear, and determine the tool's wattage (W) requirement. Sometimes the nameplate will list amps (A) instead of watts (W) and if that's the case, simply multiply the volts by the amps to get a reasonable approximation of the watts. For example: "Input: 120V 60Hz 10.0A" 120 volts x 10.0 amps = 1200 watts. You'll need a voltage transformer with a wattage capacity sufficient to handle the tool's wattage load.
In normal household applications, a "regular" voltage transformer will do the job just fine. But "regular" transformers are vented, and that can be a problem if you're in a shop or factory or other "harsh environment" where, for example, there might be sawdust flying all over the place. Sawdust gets inside the transformer, stuff burns up, bad situation. Don't even get us started on the potential hazards of thrown metal shavings coming into contact with other metal which is carrying electric current. Yikes!
If you're in an industrial environment, you might want to consider one of our Todd Systems transformers instead. The outer chassis of Todd Systems transformers are sealed with a modified polyester heat-cured varnish, thus protecting the transformer's internal metal windings from moisture, airborne particulates and other contaminants. They're (quite a bit) more expensive, but not nearly as expensive as a fire. (They can also be bolted down to a workbench or sawhorse or other work surface, which can be a significant feature.)
Back to the frequency issue.... Again, with cordless power tools, frequency isn't an issue because the tool itself is actually running on direct current (DC) power from the battery, and frequency only relates to alternating current (AC) power. But when a corded tool is running directly on AC power, the difference in frequency (60Hz vs. 50Hz) will affect the performance and the lifespan of the tool's fractional horsepower (FHP) motor.
One effect may not be all that significant. The difference in frequency will cause a 60Hz motor to rotate one-sixth more slowly when powered on 50Hz. That's objectively a 17% performance degradation, but how big an issue that is depends on the work being done. It might not even be noticeable with, for example, a drill. Or it might be a slight issue, but really just something you'll need to get used to. Or the tool being used may be entirely dependent on the motor running at a precise speed, and a 17% difference might be a deal-breaker. You'll need to draw your own conclusions on that.
The second effect is potentially a lot more serious. A 60Hz FHP motor will heat up a lot more quickly when run on 50Hz. Again, the degree to which this is significant depends on the work being done. If it's a circular saw, which will make a cut for a couple minutes, then sit for a couple minutes until the next cut, chances are it's never going to get to the point where the difference in frequency causes the motor to overheat and/or potentially burn out. But if it's a band saw, which will be running continuously for hours, the difference in frequency is likely to burn out the motor pretty quickly. Again, that's an assessment you'll need to make.
As a workaround for the overheating issue, you might consider a "3-tap" or "triple-tap" transformer. To avoid overheating a long-running FHP motor, a 60Hz motor should be run at roughly 10% lower voltage when operated on 50Hz frequency. So, for example, a 115V 60Hz motor should be run at roughly 100-105V 50Hz. Normal step-down voltage transformers only output 110-120V, and will therefore allow the frequency difference to overheat and burn out the motor. On the other hand, a triple-tap transformer outputs 100-105V, compensating for the difference in frequency and protecting the motor from overheating and eventual burnout.


Electrical Plug/Outlet and Voltage Information for Finland
Electrical Plug/Outlet and Voltage Information for Finland

0 Reviews
Availability : Out of stock
Wall outlets in the Republic of Finland are Type C (CEE 7/16 Europlug) and Type F (CEE 7/4 Schuko) and supply electricity at 230 volts AC / 50 Hz frequency. Chances are you're reading this because you're traveling there from the United States or Canada and are bringing things that will need to be plugged in there. The good news is that it's not nearly as complicated as you may think. In fact, in most cases, it's actually pretty simple. Once you've determined the electrical input requirements of the specific device(s) or appliance(s) you need to plug in abroad, you're already about 90% there. And that's also pretty simple, actually.
Note: While Type C and Type F outlets are very similar, their respective plugs' pins are different in size, and therefore ultimately they're physically incompatible and not interchangeable. Type C pins are 4.0mm in diameter, while Type F pins are 4.8mm in diameter. Outlets in any given specific building or room could be of either type, so you'll need to account for both.
Laptops, tablets / iPads, smartphones / iPhones, digital cameras and other digital-age "techie" electronic devices that run on batteries
These devices generally have chargers that are already compatible with any standard household voltage from 100 volts in Japan, to 240 volts in the UK. Simply check the charger's label and look for something to the effect of "Input: 100-240V"
If your charger says that, then stop right there! Because, guess what, you're done! Yes, it's just that easy.
Since your charger is already compatible with the 220 volt electricity coming from the European wall outlet, the only issue is changing the shape of the plug so that it can actually interface with the outlet. And that can be accomplished with a simple plug adapter. The adapter for a Type C outlet is our item #EA9C and the adapter for a Type F outlet is our item #EA9.
Hair dryers, curling irons, hair straighteners / flat irons and other bathroom appliances
As manufacturers smarten up to the fact that people tend to want to travel abroad with these things, more and more newer models are built to be dual-voltage compatible. Dual-voltage "travel models" are usually available just about anywhere you'd ordinarily buy this kind of thing, and they often don't cost any more than a regular single-voltage model.
Look for a voltage selector switch, usually somewhere on the handle. Don't worry about whether it says "110/220V" or "115/230V" or "120/240V" or "125/250V" because it's basically all the same, the specific numbers don't really matter. Simply set the switch to the higher voltage setting, attach a plug adapter (our item #EA9C or EA9 for the European Type C or Type F outlet) to the cord's plug, and you're all set.
But while dual-voltage models are widely available these days, most hair dryers, curling irons, etc. are still single-voltage. And if you plug a single-voltage (120 volts for the US and Canada) appliance into a 220-240 volt outlet, even with a plug adapter, you'll "fry" it, because 220-240 volts is just too much for the appliance to handle. You could even start a fire. If you don't see a voltage selector switch on the appliance, it's almost certainly single-voltage.
So what do you do if yours is single-voltage? Well, one option would be to buy a new one that's dual-voltage. But that can be expensive, especially if yours is fairly high-end, and/or if we're talking about a number of different appliances. And, hey, we can get attached to our particular bathroom appliances. We get it.
Another option is to use a voltage converter. Like, for example, our item #PB1650. A voltage converter will "step down" the voltage from 220-240 volts supplied by the outlet to 110-120 volts so that you can safely use the appliance without "frying" it. A voltage converter is often more economical than replacing one or more appliances, and you can use it with your hair dryer and curling iron and whatever else (one appliance at a time.) You'll also still need an adapter (item #EA9C or EA9 for a Type C or Type F European outlet) so that the voltage converter can plug into the European outlet. Outlet adapter voltage converter appliance. Problem solved!
PLEASE NOTE: While curling irons, flat irons and such are usually around 300-500 watts, hair dryers can sometimes be 1500-2000 watts! The model pictured above is actually 1875 watts, it says so right there on the side in big bold letters. Good thing it's dual-voltage, because a voltage converter wouldn't be able to handle it. Voltage converters only support up to 1600 watts. So if you have a single-voltage hair dryer that needs more than 1600 watts, you're out of luck. You'll need to buy a dual-voltage model.
CPAP and BiPAP Machines
Most newer model CPAP and BiPAP machines are multi-voltage compatible, from 100 volts in Japan to 240 volts in the UK, and therefore only need a simple plug adapter (in this case, for a Type C or Type F European outlet, that would be our item #EA9C or EA9) to change the shape of the plug so that it can interface with the foreign outlet.
To confirm this for your particular CPAP or BiPAP machine, check the label on its power supply. Most of them use a "brick" type power supply (if you're of a certain age, you may refer to this as an AC adapter) that's a lot like the kind you'd find with a laptop. Check its label and look for something to the effect of "Input: 100-240V"
If your machine's power supply says that, then just attach an adapter to its plug and you're all set!
Older models may be only compatible with a single voltage (for example, "Input: 120V") and if that's the case, then the next question is, is the "brick" power supply detachable? It probably is. If so, then you could just replace that part with one that's multi-voltage compatible. Power supplies like this are converting the AC power coming from the wall outlet to low-voltage direct current (DC) power for use by the appliance. The appliance itself runs on DC. So, for about $20, you could replace just that part with a multi-voltage equivalent. Just make sure it outputs the same DC voltage (usually 5, 12 or 24 volts DC) and amperage / wattage, and that its connector matches the connector on your CPAP or BiPAP machine. Then just attach an EA9C or EA9 adapter to the new multi-voltage power supply, and you're good to go!
Or, as a last resort, you could use a voltage transformer. A voltage transformer will convert the voltage from 220-240 volts at the outlet, to 110-120 volts at the plug, so that you can safely use your CPAP or BiPAP machine abroad. The downside is that voltage transformers can be fairly bulky and heavy. They're not exactly the most convenient things to carry around with you. But hey, if you've got no other choice, a voltage transformer will do the job.
Whatever you do, don't mistake a voltage converter for a voltage transformer. They're entirely different things, and while voltage converters like you'd use for a hair dryer are smaller and lighter, they're not suitable for electronics or devices like CPAP and BiPAP machines.
Consumer Grade Audio/Video Equipment, including Televisions, A/V Receivers, CD/DVD/Blu-Ray Players, Game Consoles, Etc.
The short answer? Don't even bother. It's probably not worth the trouble.
The somewhat longer answer: When it comes to audio/video equipment, the electrical input is probably the least of your worries. Even if you're able to properly supply electricity to the equipment, there are numerous other compatibility issues which need to be addressed. And even if you address them all, you'll probably end up in a situation where the cure is worse than the disease -- hundreds of dollars worth of gadgets and cables scattered all over the place, and conversion after conversion, each of which (assuming they even work) degrading the eventual output to the point of frustration.
The bottom line is that A/V equipment just isn't built to be taken abroad. Even if your television is 100-240V multi-voltage compatible, there are differences in scan rates (30/60/120 frames per second in North America vs. 25/50/110 frames per second in Europe, for example) and broadcast standards (PAL vs. NTSC vs. SECAM) and tuning frequencies and DVD/Blu-Ray region coding, and on and on like that. It's a mess.
You'd need to talk to an A/V expert if you're really REALLY intent on taking your A/V equipment abroad. But even then, the answer will probably be the same: it's just not worth all the trouble. Manufacturers deliberately build these various incompatibilities in specifically so that A/V equipment can't be used outside of the country / region for which it's intended to be bought, sold and used. You could try to fight The Man on this, but The Man is almost certainly going to win.
Now, you might be saying "Okay, but I'm going to be running a completely closed system when I get there. All my equipment is American, and I won't be bringing any signals in from the outside. Just my own DVDs, maybe some internet streaming like Netflix, and stuff from my PC. Shouldn't that be okay?" Maybe, but again, probably not. You could give it a shot with a voltage transformer, but even then, there will probably be issues. Voltage transformers output "modified sine wave" or "stepped wave" electricity, and A/V equipment can be particularly sensitive to that. The degree to which it degrades the picture/sound output varies depending on the equipment, but it can be a significant problem. And signals from internet streaming services like Netflix, Hulu, PS Vue, Amazon, etc. will be fed to your devices according to the local standards, which will be incompatible with the standards your equipment was built for. Again, it's a mess.
We get it, you want to conquer this thing. The best way to do that? Concede, regroup at Red Lobster, and live to fight another day.
Small Kitchen Appliances, including Mixers, Toasters, Coffee Makers, Slow Cookers, Blenders, Food Processors, Microwave Ovens, etc.
For the sake of simplicity, let's just say small kitchen appliances are "never" dual-voltage or multi-voltage. Surely there are a handful of exceptions out there somewhere, but in the US and Canada, there's basically a 100% chance that your kitchen appliances are only compatible with 110-120 volt North American electricity.
But most small kitchen appliances can be safely (albeit less-effectively) used abroad with a voltage transformer. A voltage transformer takes the 220-240 volt electricity supplied by the outlet, and changes it to 110-120 volts for use by the appliance. (For a Type C or Type F European outlet, you would also need to attach a plug adapter, our item #EA9C or EA9, to the voltage transformer's plug, so that the transformer can plug into the British outlet.)
You'll need to determine the wattage requirement for your specific appliance. Some things, like hand mixers, require relatively little wattage, while things with heating elements, like coffee makers and toasters, require a much higher amount of wattage. Check the label on the bottom or back of your appliance, where the brand name and model number appear, and locate its electrical specifications. It should look something like "Input: 120V 60Hz 240W" where W indicates the wattage. You'll need a voltage transformer that's capable of supporting that amount of wattage or greater.
Sometimes the label will list amps (A) instead of watts (W) and if that's the case, simply multiply the volts by the amps to get a reasonable approximation of the watts. For example: "Input: 120V 60Hz 2.0A" 120 volts x 2.0 amps = 240 watts.
Want to use a power strip to gain additional outlets and plug multiple appliances into a single transformer? You can do that. But the transformer's wattage rating needs to be greater than the total combined wattage of all the appliances plugged into it at the same time. So for a 500 watt mixer, and a 500 watt blender, the transformer's capacity needs to be greater than 1000 watts. Also, make sure to use a simple power strip, and not a surge protector. Voltage transformers and surge protectors don't play nice together, and in certain rare but possible circumstances, it could create a fire or electrocution hazard.
Voltage transformers can be bulky and heavy, particularly at higher wattages. A 3000 watt transformer can weigh upwards of 35 pounds! So, while you may love that 2000 watt toaster, you'll want to think about whether it's really worth the trouble of plugging it into something that weighs over 30 pounds and is larger than the appliance itself.
Appliances with motors and clocks/timers will be affected by the difference in frequency (60Hz vs. 50Hz) and unfortunately there's just no way around that. Fortunately, in most cases, it's not a very significant issue. A motor will rotate one-sixth more slowly on 50Hz as opposed to 60Hz. So your mixer will run about 17% more slowly, as will your blender or food processor. But that's usually not a big deal, it might just take a little getting used to. A slightly more significant issue might be the timer on your microwave. If you set it for 5 minutes, it's going to actually run for 6 minutes, because the difference in frequency is making the timer count one-sixth more slowly. Again, this can usually be overcome by just getting used to making some mental adjustments when using the appliance. The problem gets more significant the longer the appliance is used at a time. For example, over an 8 hour slow cooker cycle, the timer will be off by more than a full hour!
Major Household Appliances, including Refrigerators, Air Conditioners, Washing Machines, Dishwashers, etc.
Most major appliances with fractional horsepower motors (like a washing machine or dishwasher) or compressors (like a refrigerator or air conditioner) can be safely used abroad with a voltage transformer. However, these kinds of appliances require a special type of voltage transformer known as a "3-tap" or "triple-tap" transformer.
Why? Fractional horsepower motors (FHP motors) and compressors are particularly heat-sensitive to the difference in the frequency (60Hz vs. 50Hz) of the alternating current. For smaller motors like those in small kitchen appliances, it's not a very significant issue. But larger motors, particularly ones that either run non-stop (refrigerators) or that continuously stop-and-start (washing machines) will overheat and burn out in short order if the difference in frequency isn't compensated for. A triple-tap transformer is an effective workaround for that issue.
To avoid overheating these FHP motors and/or compressors, a 60Hz motor should be run at roughly 10% lower voltage when operated on 50Hz frequency. So, for example, a 115V 60Hz motor should be run at roughly 100-105V 50Hz. Normal step-down voltage transformers only output 110-120V, and will therefore allow the frequency difference to overheat and burn out the motor. On the other hand, a triple-tap transformer outputs 100-105V, compensating for the difference in frequency and protecting the motor from overheating and eventual burnout.
Exceptions to this are clothes dryers, stoves/ovens/cooktops, and US and Canadian air conditioners intended to be run on a North American 220-240 volt circuit. You're probably already aware of the fact that clothes dryers and cooking appliances (stoves/ovens) typically plug into different types of outlets to begin with, as opposed to normal household outlets. This is because those appliances run on two-phase circuits. A normal household circuit has one 120 volt phase wire and one neutral wire, whereas a circuit for a clothes dryer or stove/oven has two 120 volt phase wires. This is also different from Europe, the UK and other countries where normal household outlets are 220-240 volts, because in those countries, those circuits consist of a single 220-240 volt phase wire and a neutral wire, as opposed to two 120 volt phase wires. Bottom line? They're incompatible, even with a voltage transformer. A local electrician may be able to solve the problem, but it's going to require some re-wiring. A gadget like a voltage transformer isn't going to help.
Lamps, Lights, Wall Sconces, Chandeliers, and Other Lighting Fixtures
Okay, let's get the easy part out of the way first: Chandeliers, wall sconces, fluorescent lighting fixtures, etc. are permanently-installed and hard-wired directly to the building's electrical system. Consult with a local electrician. There's probably a solution, but it will require some re-wiring. A gadget like a voltage converter or transformer doesn't apply to this kind of situation. (Well, it might, but it would be something an electrician needs to supply and install into a wall, or in the ceiling, etc.)
Freestanding lamps may be able to be used with a voltage transformer, albeit with some associated issues which may prove to be deal-breakers.
For one thing, are you even able to easily obtain replacement bulbs? In North America, light bulbs generally have screw-type connectors, whereas abroad they usually have bayonet-type connectors. Powering a lamp via a voltage transformer is likely to shorten the lifespan of the bulbs significantly, so expect to have to change bulbs out frequently.
Fluorescent bulbs are sensitive to the difference in frequency (60Hz vs. 50Hz) which will result in an annoying flicker if the frequency isn't what the bulb was designed for. Unfortunately, there's no practical solution for the frequency issue.
And then there's the matter of voltage transformers not exactly being the prettiest things in the world. Let's say your lamp has five 100-watt bulbs. You'd need at least a 500-watt voltage transformer, which isn't exactly tiny and unobtrusive. Perhaps you could conceal it behind a couch, or a plant, or something like that. But otherwise, your beautiful lamp would have a bulky, ugly piece of machinery sitting right next to it. You'll want to ask yourself whether it's really worth it.
The other solution would be to have an electrician completely re-wire the lamp, including the bulb sockets, if it's even possible to do so given any physical limitations/barriers based on the way the lamp was originally built. The question remains: Is it really worth all the trouble?
Lately, LED string lights seem to be gaining in popularity, and these things are often shipped directly from China or Japan via marketplace web sites like eBay. If you're buying LED string lights, pay very close attention to their electrical input requirements before you buy. If the information isn't published, ask the seller, and be sure they're telling you the truth.
LED string lights are often powered by way of a "brick" type power supply or an AC adapter, similar to the kind of power supply a laptop uses. And those are often multi-voltage compatible. Check its label and look for something like "Input: 100-240V" and if it says that, then you're in luck, because you just need a simple plug adapter that matches the type of outlet you need to plug into.
Otherwise, you may end up with LED string lights which were designed for Chinese 220 volt electricity, or Japanese 100 volt electricity. And at that point, your only solution is a voltage transformer. You'll need to determine how many watts your light string requires, and select a voltage transformer that can handle the wattage required by the lights.
Power Tools and Other Shop / Factory Machines
Charging stations for many newer model cordless power tools are multi-voltage compatible. Check the label on the bottom of the charging station and look for something to the effect of "Input: 100-240V"
If that's the case for your particular tool's charging station, then the difference in voltage is irrelevant, and the only issue is changing the shape of the charging station's plug so that it can physically interface with the foreign outlet. That requires only a simple plug adapter (for a Type C or Type F European outlet, that would be our item #EA9C or EA9.) The tool itself is running on direct current (DC) power from the battery, so things like frequency (Hz) are also irrelevant. Frequency only applies to alternating current (AC) power.
Corded power tools are a different and more complicated situation, because they're running directly on the alternating current (AC) power coming from the wall outlet, and therefore things like frequency (Hz) come into play. Corded power tools built to be powered by 110-120 volt North American electricity can be safely powered abroad by way of a voltage transformer, which will change the 220-240 volt electricity coming from the wall outlet to 110-120 volt power for use by the tool.
Check the nameplate on the tool, where the brand name and model number appear, and determine the tool's wattage (W) requirement. Sometimes the nameplate will list amps (A) instead of watts (W) and if that's the case, simply multiply the volts by the amps to get a reasonable approximation of the watts. For example: "Input: 120V 60Hz 10.0A" 120 volts x 10.0 amps = 1200 watts. You'll need a voltage transformer with a wattage capacity sufficient to handle the tool's wattage load.
In normal household applications, a "regular" voltage transformer will do the job just fine. But "regular" transformers are vented, and that can be a problem if you're in a shop or factory or other "harsh environment" where, for example, there might be sawdust flying all over the place. Sawdust gets inside the transformer, stuff burns up, bad situation. Don't even get us started on the potential hazards of thrown metal shavings coming into contact with other metal which is carrying electric current. Yikes!
If you're in an industrial environment, you might want to consider one of our Todd Systems transformers instead. The outer chassis of Todd Systems transformers are sealed with a modified polyester heat-cured varnish, thus protecting the transformer's internal metal windings from moisture, airborne particulates and other contaminants. They're (quite a bit) more expensive, but not nearly as expensive as a fire. (They can also be bolted down to a workbench or sawhorse or other work surface, which can be a significant feature.)
Back to the frequency issue.... Again, with cordless power tools, frequency isn't an issue because the tool itself is actually running on direct current (DC) power from the battery, and frequency only relates to alternating current (AC) power. But when a corded tool is running directly on AC power, the difference in frequency (60Hz vs. 50Hz) will affect the performance and the lifespan of the tool's fractional horsepower (FHP) motor.
One effect may not be all that significant. The difference in frequency will cause a 60Hz motor to rotate one-sixth more slowly when powered on 50Hz. That's objectively a 17% performance degradation, but how big an issue that is depends on the work being done. It might not even be noticeable with, for example, a drill. Or it might be a slight issue, but really just something you'll need to get used to. Or the tool being used may be entirely dependent on the motor running at a precise speed, and a 17% difference might be a deal-breaker. You'll need to draw your own conclusions on that.
The second effect is potentially a lot more serious. A 60Hz FHP motor will heat up a lot more quickly when run on 50Hz. Again, the degree to which this is significant depends on the work being done. If it's a circular saw, which will make a cut for a couple minutes, then sit for a couple minutes until the next cut, chances are it's never going to get to the point where the difference in frequency causes the motor to overheat and/or potentially burn out. But if it's a band saw, which will be running continuously for hours, the difference in frequency is likely to burn out the motor pretty quickly. Again, that's an assessment you'll need to make.
As a workaround for the overheating issue, you might consider a "3-tap" or "triple-tap" transformer. To avoid overheating a long-running FHP motor, a 60Hz motor should be run at roughly 10% lower voltage when operated on 50Hz frequency. So, for example, a 115V 60Hz motor should be run at roughly 100-105V 50Hz. Normal step-down voltage transformers only output 110-120V, and will therefore allow the frequency difference to overheat and burn out the motor. On the other hand, a triple-tap transformer outputs 100-105V, compensating for the difference in frequency and protecting the motor from overheating and eventual burnout.


Electrical Plug/Outlet and Voltage Information for Georgia
Electrical Plug/Outlet and Voltage Information for Georgia

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Availability : Out of stock
Wall outlets in Georgia are Type C (CEE 7/16 Europlug) and Type F (CEE 7/4 Schuko) and supply electricity at 220 volts AC / 50 Hz frequency. Chances are you're reading this because you're traveling there from the United States or Canada and are bringing things that will need to be plugged in there. The good news is that it's not nearly as complicated as you may think. In fact, in most cases, it's actually pretty simple. Once you've determined the electrical input requirements of the specific device(s) or appliance(s) you need to plug in abroad, you're already about 90% there. And that's also pretty simple, actually.
Note: While Type C and Type F outlets are very similar, their respective plugs' pins are different in size, and therefore ultimately they're physically incompatible and not interchangeable. Type C pins are 4.0mm in diameter, while Type F pins are 4.8mm in diameter. Outlets in any given specific building or room could be of either type, so you'll need to account for both.
Laptops, tablets / iPads, smartphones / iPhones, digital cameras and other digital-age "techie" electronic devices that run on batteries
These devices generally have chargers that are already compatible with any standard household voltage from 100 volts in Japan, to 240 volts in the UK. Simply check the charger's label and look for something to the effect of "Input: 100-240V"
If your charger says that, then stop right there! Because, guess what, you're done! Yes, it's just that easy.
Since your charger is already compatible with the 220 volt electricity coming from the European wall outlet, the only issue is changing the shape of the plug so that it can actually interface with the outlet. And that can be accomplished with a simple plug adapter. The adapter for a Type C outlet is our item #EA9C and the adapter for a Type F outlet is our item #EA9.
Hair dryers, curling irons, hair straighteners / flat irons and other bathroom appliances
As manufacturers smarten up to the fact that people tend to want to travel abroad with these things, more and more newer models are built to be dual-voltage compatible. Dual-voltage "travel models" are usually available just about anywhere you'd ordinarily buy this kind of thing, and they often don't cost any more than a regular single-voltage model.
Look for a voltage selector switch, usually somewhere on the handle. Don't worry about whether it says "110/220V" or "115/230V" or "120/240V" or "125/250V" because it's basically all the same, the specific numbers don't really matter. Simply set the switch to the higher voltage setting, attach a plug adapter (our item #EA9C or EA9 for the European Type C or Type F outlet) to the cord's plug, and you're all set.
But while dual-voltage models are widely available these days, most hair dryers, curling irons, etc. are still single-voltage. And if you plug a single-voltage (120 volts for the US and Canada) appliance into a 220-240 volt outlet, even with a plug adapter, you'll "fry" it, because 220-240 volts is just too much for the appliance to handle. You could even start a fire. If you don't see a voltage selector switch on the appliance, it's almost certainly single-voltage.
So what do you do if yours is single-voltage? Well, one option would be to buy a new one that's dual-voltage. But that can be expensive, especially if yours is fairly high-end, and/or if we're talking about a number of different appliances. And, hey, we can get attached to our particular bathroom appliances. We get it.
Another option is to use a voltage converter. Like, for example, our item #PB1650. A voltage converter will "step down" the voltage from 220-240 volts supplied by the outlet to 110-120 volts so that you can safely use the appliance without "frying" it. A voltage converter is often more economical than replacing one or more appliances, and you can use it with your hair dryer and curling iron and whatever else (one appliance at a time.) You'll also still need an adapter (item #EA9C or EA9 for a Type C or Type F European outlet) so that the voltage converter can plug into the European outlet. Outlet adapter voltage converter appliance. Problem solved!
PLEASE NOTE: While curling irons, flat irons and such are usually around 300-500 watts, hair dryers can sometimes be 1500-2000 watts! The model pictured above is actually 1875 watts, it says so right there on the side in big bold letters. Good thing it's dual-voltage, because a voltage converter wouldn't be able to handle it. Voltage converters only support up to 1600 watts. So if you have a single-voltage hair dryer that needs more than 1600 watts, you're out of luck. You'll need to buy a dual-voltage model.
CPAP and BiPAP Machines
Most newer model CPAP and BiPAP machines are multi-voltage compatible, from 100 volts in Japan to 240 volts in the UK, and therefore only need a simple plug adapter (in this case, for a Type C or Type F European outlet, that would be our item #EA9C or EA9) to change the shape of the plug so that it can interface with the foreign outlet.
To confirm this for your particular CPAP or BiPAP machine, check the label on its power supply. Most of them use a "brick" type power supply (if you're of a certain age, you may refer to this as an AC adapter) that's a lot like the kind you'd find with a laptop. Check its label and look for something to the effect of "Input: 100-240V"
If your machine's power supply says that, then just attach an adapter to its plug and you're all set!
Older models may be only compatible with a single voltage (for example, "Input: 120V") and if that's the case, then the next question is, is the "brick" power supply detachable? It probably is. If so, then you could just replace that part with one that's multi-voltage compatible. Power supplies like this are converting the AC power coming from the wall outlet to low-voltage direct current (DC) power for use by the appliance. The appliance itself runs on DC. So, for about $20, you could replace just that part with a multi-voltage equivalent. Just make sure it outputs the same DC voltage (usually 5, 12 or 24 volts DC) and amperage / wattage, and that its connector matches the connector on your CPAP or BiPAP machine. Then just attach an EA9C or EA9 adapter to the new multi-voltage power supply, and you're good to go!
Or, as a last resort, you could use a voltage transformer. A voltage transformer will convert the voltage from 220-240 volts at the outlet, to 110-120 volts at the plug, so that you can safely use your CPAP or BiPAP machine abroad. The downside is that voltage transformers can be fairly bulky and heavy. They're not exactly the most convenient things to carry around with you. But hey, if you've got no other choice, a voltage transformer will do the job.
Whatever you do, don't mistake a voltage converter for a voltage transformer. They're entirely different things, and while voltage converters like you'd use for a hair dryer are smaller and lighter, they're not suitable for electronics or devices like CPAP and BiPAP machines.
Consumer Grade Audio/Video Equipment, including Televisions, A/V Receivers, CD/DVD/Blu-Ray Players, Game Consoles, Etc.
The short answer? Don't even bother. It's probably not worth the trouble.
The somewhat longer answer: When it comes to audio/video equipment, the electrical input is probably the least of your worries. Even if you're able to properly supply electricity to the equipment, there are numerous other compatibility issues which need to be addressed. And even if you address them all, you'll probably end up in a situation where the cure is worse than the disease -- hundreds of dollars worth of gadgets and cables scattered all over the place, and conversion after conversion, each of which (assuming they even work) degrading the eventual output to the point of frustration.
The bottom line is that A/V equipment just isn't built to be taken abroad. Even if your television is 100-240V multi-voltage compatible, there are differences in scan rates (30/60/120 frames per second in North America vs. 25/50/110 frames per second in Europe, for example) and broadcast standards (PAL vs. NTSC vs. SECAM) and tuning frequencies and DVD/Blu-Ray region coding, and on and on like that. It's a mess.
You'd need to talk to an A/V expert if you're really REALLY intent on taking your A/V equipment abroad. But even then, the answer will probably be the same: it's just not worth all the trouble. Manufacturers deliberately build these various incompatibilities in specifically so that A/V equipment can't be used outside of the country / region for which it's intended to be bought, sold and used. You could try to fight The Man on this, but The Man is almost certainly going to win.
Now, you might be saying "Okay, but I'm going to be running a completely closed system when I get there. All my equipment is American, and I won't be bringing any signals in from the outside. Just my own DVDs, maybe some internet streaming like Netflix, and stuff from my PC. Shouldn't that be okay?" Maybe, but again, probably not. You could give it a shot with a voltage transformer, but even then, there will probably be issues. Voltage transformers output "modified sine wave" or "stepped wave" electricity, and A/V equipment can be particularly sensitive to that. The degree to which it degrades the picture/sound output varies depending on the equipment, but it can be a significant problem. And signals from internet streaming services like Netflix, Hulu, PS Vue, Amazon, etc. will be fed to your devices according to the local standards, which will be incompatible with the standards your equipment was built for. Again, it's a mess.
We get it, you want to conquer this thing. The best way to do that? Concede, regroup at Red Lobster, and live to fight another day.
Small Kitchen Appliances, including Mixers, Toasters, Coffee Makers, Slow Cookers, Blenders, Food Processors, Microwave Ovens, etc.
For the sake of simplicity, let's just say small kitchen appliances are "never" dual-voltage or multi-voltage. Surely there are a handful of exceptions out there somewhere, but in the US and Canada, there's basically a 100% chance that your kitchen appliances are only compatible with 110-120 volt North American electricity.
But most small kitchen appliances can be safely (albeit less-effectively) used abroad with a voltage transformer. A voltage transformer takes the 220-240 volt electricity supplied by the outlet, and changes it to 110-120 volts for use by the appliance. (For a Type C or Type F European outlet, you would also need to attach a plug adapter, our item #EA9C or EA9, to the voltage transformer's plug, so that the transformer can plug into the British outlet.)
You'll need to determine the wattage requirement for your specific appliance. Some things, like hand mixers, require relatively little wattage, while things with heating elements, like coffee makers and toasters, require a much higher amount of wattage. Check the label on the bottom or back of your appliance, where the brand name and model number appear, and locate its electrical specifications. It should look something like "Input: 120V 60Hz 240W" where W indicates the wattage. You'll need a voltage transformer that's capable of supporting that amount of wattage or greater.
Sometimes the label will list amps (A) instead of watts (W) and if that's the case, simply multiply the volts by the amps to get a reasonable approximation of the watts. For example: "Input: 120V 60Hz 2.0A" 120 volts x 2.0 amps = 240 watts.
Want to use a power strip to gain additional outlets and plug multiple appliances into a single transformer? You can do that. But the transformer's wattage rating needs to be greater than the total combined wattage of all the appliances plugged into it at the same time. So for a 500 watt mixer, and a 500 watt blender, the transformer's capacity needs to be greater than 1000 watts. Also, make sure to use a simple power strip, and not a surge protector. Voltage transformers and surge protectors don't play nice together, and in certain rare but possible circumstances, it could create a fire or electrocution hazard.
Voltage transformers can be bulky and heavy, particularly at higher wattages. A 3000 watt transformer can weigh upwards of 35 pounds! So, while you may love that 2000 watt toaster, you'll want to think about whether it's really worth the trouble of plugging it into something that weighs over 30 pounds and is larger than the appliance itself.
Appliances with motors and clocks/timers will be affected by the difference in frequency (60Hz vs. 50Hz) and unfortunately there's just no way around that. Fortunately, in most cases, it's not a very significant issue. A motor will rotate one-sixth more slowly on 50Hz as opposed to 60Hz. So your mixer will run about 17% more slowly, as will your blender or food processor. But that's usually not a big deal, it might just take a little getting used to. A slightly more significant issue might be the timer on your microwave. If you set it for 5 minutes, it's going to actually run for 6 minutes, because the difference in frequency is making the timer count one-sixth more slowly. Again, this can usually be overcome by just getting used to making some mental adjustments when using the appliance. The problem gets more significant the longer the appliance is used at a time. For example, over an 8 hour slow cooker cycle, the timer will be off by more than a full hour!
Major Household Appliances, including Refrigerators, Air Conditioners, Washing Machines, Dishwashers, etc.
Most major appliances with fractional horsepower motors (like a washing machine or dishwasher) or compressors (like a refrigerator or air conditioner) can be safely used abroad with a voltage transformer. However, these kinds of appliances require a special type of voltage transformer known as a "3-tap" or "triple-tap" transformer.
Why? Fractional horsepower motors (FHP motors) and compressors are particularly heat-sensitive to the difference in the frequency (60Hz vs. 50Hz) of the alternating current. For smaller motors like those in small kitchen appliances, it's not a very significant issue. But larger motors, particularly ones that either run non-stop (refrigerators) or that continuously stop-and-start (washing machines) will overheat and burn out in short order if the difference in frequency isn't compensated for. A triple-tap transformer is an effective workaround for that issue.
To avoid overheating these FHP motors and/or compressors, a 60Hz motor should be run at roughly 10% lower voltage when operated on 50Hz frequency. So, for example, a 115V 60Hz motor should be run at roughly 100-105V 50Hz. Normal step-down voltage transformers only output 110-120V, and will therefore allow the frequency difference to overheat and burn out the motor. On the other hand, a triple-tap transformer outputs 100-105V, compensating for the difference in frequency and protecting the motor from overheating and eventual burnout.
Exceptions to this are clothes dryers, stoves/ovens/cooktops, and US and Canadian air conditioners intended to be run on a North American 220-240 volt circuit. You're probably already aware of the fact that clothes dryers and cooking appliances (stoves/ovens) typically plug into different types of outlets to begin with, as opposed to normal household outlets. This is because those appliances run on two-phase circuits. A normal household circuit has one 120 volt phase wire and one neutral wire, whereas a circuit for a clothes dryer or stove/oven has two 120 volt phase wires. This is also different from Europe, the UK and other countries where normal household outlets are 220-240 volts, because in those countries, those circuits consist of a single 220-240 volt phase wire and a neutral wire, as opposed to two 120 volt phase wires. Bottom line? They're incompatible, even with a voltage transformer. A local electrician may be able to solve the problem, but it's going to require some re-wiring. A gadget like a voltage transformer isn't going to help.
Lamps, Lights, Wall Sconces, Chandeliers, and Other Lighting Fixtures
Okay, let's get the easy part out of the way first: Chandeliers, wall sconces, fluorescent lighting fixtures, etc. are permanently-installed and hard-wired directly to the building's electrical system. Consult with a local electrician. There's probably a solution, but it will require some re-wiring. A gadget like a voltage converter or transformer doesn't apply to this kind of situation. (Well, it might, but it would be something an electrician needs to supply and install into a wall, or in the ceiling, etc.)
Freestanding lamps may be able to be used with a voltage transformer, albeit with some associated issues which may prove to be deal-breakers.
For one thing, are you even able to easily obtain replacement bulbs? In North America, light bulbs generally have screw-type connectors, whereas abroad they usually have bayonet-type connectors. Powering a lamp via a voltage transformer is likely to shorten the lifespan of the bulbs significantly, so expect to have to change bulbs out frequently.
Fluorescent bulbs are sensitive to the difference in frequency (60Hz vs. 50Hz) which will result in an annoying flicker if the frequency isn't what the bulb was designed for. Unfortunately, there's no practical solution for the frequency issue.
And then there's the matter of voltage transformers not exactly being the prettiest things in the world. Let's say your lamp has five 100-watt bulbs. You'd need at least a 500-watt voltage transformer, which isn't exactly tiny and unobtrusive. Perhaps you could conceal it behind a couch, or a plant, or something like that. But otherwise, your beautiful lamp would have a bulky, ugly piece of machinery sitting right next to it. You'll want to ask yourself whether it's really worth it.
The other solution would be to have an electrician completely re-wire the lamp, including the bulb sockets, if it's even possible to do so given any physical limitations/barriers based on the way the lamp was originally built. The question remains: Is it really worth all the trouble?
Lately, LED string lights seem to be gaining in popularity, and these things are often shipped directly from China or Japan via marketplace web sites like eBay. If you're buying LED string lights, pay very close attention to their electrical input requirements before you buy. If the information isn't published, ask the seller, and be sure they're telling you the truth.
LED string lights are often powered by way of a "brick" type power supply or an AC adapter, similar to the kind of power supply a laptop uses. And those are often multi-voltage compatible. Check its label and look for something like "Input: 100-240V" and if it says that, then you're in luck, because you just need a simple plug adapter that matches the type of outlet you need to plug into.
Otherwise, you may end up with LED string lights which were designed for Chinese 220 volt electricity, or Japanese 100 volt electricity. And at that point, your only solution is a voltage transformer. You'll need to determine how many watts your light string requires, and select a voltage transformer that can handle the wattage required by the lights.
Power Tools and Other Shop / Factory Machines
Charging stations for many newer model cordless power tools are multi-voltage compatible. Check the label on the bottom of the charging station and look for something to the effect of "Input: 100-240V"
If that's the case for your particular tool's charging station, then the difference in voltage is irrelevant, and the only issue is changing the shape of the charging station's plug so that it can physically interface with the foreign outlet. That requires only a simple plug adapter (for a Type C or Type F European outlet, that would be our item #EA9C or EA9.) The tool itself is running on direct current (DC) power from the battery, so things like frequency (Hz) are also irrelevant. Frequency only applies to alternating current (AC) power.
Corded power tools are a different and more complicated situation, because they're running directly on the alternating current (AC) power coming from the wall outlet, and therefore things like frequency (Hz) come into play. Corded power tools built to be powered by 110-120 volt North American electricity can be safely powered abroad by way of a voltage transformer, which will change the 220-240 volt electricity coming from the wall outlet to 110-120 volt power for use by the tool.
Check the nameplate on the tool, where the brand name and model number appear, and determine the tool's wattage (W) requirement. Sometimes the nameplate will list amps (A) instead of watts (W) and if that's the case, simply multiply the volts by the amps to get a reasonable approximation of the watts. For example: "Input: 120V 60Hz 10.0A" 120 volts x 10.0 amps = 1200 watts. You'll need a voltage transformer with a wattage capacity sufficient to handle the tool's wattage load.
In normal household applications, a "regular" voltage transformer will do the job just fine. But "regular" transformers are vented, and that can be a problem if you're in a shop or factory or other "harsh environment" where, for example, there might be sawdust flying all over the place. Sawdust gets inside the transformer, stuff burns up, bad situation. Don't even get us started on the potential hazards of thrown metal shavings coming into contact with other metal which is carrying electric current. Yikes!
If you're in an industrial environment, you might want to consider one of our Todd Systems transformers instead. The outer chassis of Todd Systems transformers are sealed with a modified polyester heat-cured varnish, thus protecting the transformer's internal metal windings from moisture, airborne particulates and other contaminants. They're (quite a bit) more expensive, but not nearly as expensive as a fire. (They can also be bolted down to a workbench or sawhorse or other work surface, which can be a significant feature.)
Back to the frequency issue.... Again, with cordless power tools, frequency isn't an issue because the tool itself is actually running on direct current (DC) power from the battery, and frequency only relates to alternating current (AC) power. But when a corded tool is running directly on AC power, the difference in frequency (60Hz vs. 50Hz) will affect the performance and the lifespan of the tool's fractional horsepower (FHP) motor.
One effect may not be all that significant. The difference in frequency will cause a 60Hz motor to rotate one-sixth more slowly when powered on 50Hz. That's objectively a 17% performance degradation, but how big an issue that is depends on the work being done. It might not even be noticeable with, for example, a drill. Or it might be a slight issue, but really just something you'll need to get used to. Or the tool being used may be entirely dependent on the motor running at a precise speed, and a 17% difference might be a deal-breaker. You'll need to draw your own conclusions on that.
The second effect is potentially a lot more serious. A 60Hz FHP motor will heat up a lot more quickly when run on 50Hz. Again, the degree to which this is significant depends on the work being done. If it's a circular saw, which will make a cut for a couple minutes, then sit for a couple minutes until the next cut, chances are it's never going to get to the point where the difference in frequency causes the motor to overheat and/or potentially burn out. But if it's a band saw, which will be running continuously for hours, the difference in frequency is likely to burn out the motor pretty quickly. Again, that's an assessment you'll need to make.
As a workaround for the overheating issue, you might consider a "3-tap" or "triple-tap" transformer. To avoid overheating a long-running FHP motor, a 60Hz motor should be run at roughly 10% lower voltage when operated on 50Hz frequency. So, for example, a 115V 60Hz motor should be run at roughly 100-105V 50Hz. Normal step-down voltage transformers only output 110-120V, and will therefore allow the frequency difference to overheat and burn out the motor. On the other hand, a triple-tap transformer outputs 100-105V, compensating for the difference in frequency and protecting the motor from overheating and eventual burnout.


Electrical Plug/Outlet and Voltage Information for Germany
Electrical Plug/Outlet and Voltage Information for Germany

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Wall outlets in the Federal Republic of Germany are Type C (CEE 7/16 Europlug) and Type F (CEE 7/4 Schuko) and supply electricity at 230 volts AC / 50 Hz frequency. Chances are you're reading this because you're traveling there from the United States or Canada and are bringing things that will need to be plugged in there. The good news is that it's not nearly as complicated as you may think. In fact, in most cases, it's actually pretty simple. Once you've determined the electrical input requirements of the specific device(s) or appliance(s) you need to plug in abroad, you're already about 90% there. And that's also pretty simple, actually.
Note: While Type C and Type F outlets are very similar, their respective plugs' pins are different in size, and therefore ultimately they're physically incompatible and not interchangeable. Type C pins are 4.0mm in diameter, while Type F pins are 4.8mm in diameter. Outlets in any given specific building or room could be of either type, so you'll need to account for both.
Laptops, tablets / iPads, smartphones / iPhones, digital cameras and other digital-age "techie" electronic devices that run on batteries
These devices generally have chargers that are already compatible with any standard household voltage from 100 volts in Japan, to 240 volts in the UK. Simply check the charger's label and look for something to the effect of "Input: 100-240V"
If your charger says that, then stop right there! Because, guess what, you're done! Yes, it's just that easy.
Since your charger is already compatible with the 220 volt electricity coming from the European wall outlet, the only issue is changing the shape of the plug so that it can actually interface with the outlet. And that can be accomplished with a simple plug adapter. The adapter for a Type C outlet is our item #EA9C and the adapter for a Type F outlet is our item #EA9.
Hair dryers, curling irons, hair straighteners / flat irons and other bathroom appliances
As manufacturers smarten up to the fact that people tend to want to travel abroad with these things, more and more newer models are built to be dual-voltage compatible. Dual-voltage "travel models" are usually available just about anywhere you'd ordinarily buy this kind of thing, and they often don't cost any more than a regular single-voltage model.
Look for a voltage selector switch, usually somewhere on the handle. Don't worry about whether it says "110/220V" or "115/230V" or "120/240V" or "125/250V" because it's basically all the same, the specific numbers don't really matter. Simply set the switch to the higher voltage setting, attach a plug adapter (our item #EA9C or EA9 for the European Type C or Type F outlet) to the cord's plug, and you're all set.
But while dual-voltage models are widely available these days, most hair dryers, curling irons, etc. are still single-voltage. And if you plug a single-voltage (120 volts for the US and Canada) appliance into a 220-240 volt outlet, even with a plug adapter, you'll "fry" it, because 220-240 volts is just too much for the appliance to handle. You could even start a fire. If you don't see a voltage selector switch on the appliance, it's almost certainly single-voltage.
So what do you do if yours is single-voltage? Well, one option would be to buy a new one that's dual-voltage. But that can be expensive, especially if yours is fairly high-end, and/or if we're talking about a number of different appliances. And, hey, we can get attached to our particular bathroom appliances. We get it.
Another option is to use a voltage converter. Like, for example, our item #PB1650. A voltage converter will "step down" the voltage from 220-240 volts supplied by the outlet to 110-120 volts so that you can safely use the appliance without "frying" it. A voltage converter is often more economical than replacing one or more appliances, and you can use it with your hair dryer and curling iron and whatever else (one appliance at a time.) You'll also still need an adapter (item #EA9C or EA9 for a Type C or Type F European outlet) so that the voltage converter can plug into the European outlet. Outlet adapter voltage converter appliance. Problem solved!
PLEASE NOTE: While curling irons, flat irons and such are usually around 300-500 watts, hair dryers can sometimes be 1500-2000 watts! The model pictured above is actually 1875 watts, it says so right there on the side in big bold letters. Good thing it's dual-voltage, because a voltage converter wouldn't be able to handle it. Voltage converters only support up to 1600 watts. So if you have a single-voltage hair dryer that needs more than 1600 watts, you're out of luck. You'll need to buy a dual-voltage model.
CPAP and BiPAP Machines
Most newer model CPAP and BiPAP machines are multi-voltage compatible, from 100 volts in Japan to 240 volts in the UK, and therefore only need a simple plug adapter (in this case, for a Type C or Type F European outlet, that would be our item #EA9C or EA9) to change the shape of the plug so that it can interface with the foreign outlet.
To confirm this for your particular CPAP or BiPAP machine, check the label on its power supply. Most of them use a "brick" type power supply (if you're of a certain age, you may refer to this as an AC adapter) that's a lot like the kind you'd find with a laptop. Check its label and look for something to the effect of "Input: 100-240V"
If your machine's power supply says that, then just attach an adapter to its plug and you're all set!
Older models may be only compatible with a single voltage (for example, "Input: 120V") and if that's the case, then the next question is, is the "brick" power supply detachable? It probably is. If so, then you could just replace that part with one that's multi-voltage compatible. Power supplies like this are converting the AC power coming from the wall outlet to low-voltage direct current (DC) power for use by the appliance. The appliance itself runs on DC. So, for about $20, you could replace just that part with a multi-voltage equivalent. Just make sure it outputs the same DC voltage (usually 5, 12 or 24 volts DC) and amperage / wattage, and that its connector matches the connector on your CPAP or BiPAP machine. Then just attach an EA9C or EA9 adapter to the new multi-voltage power supply, and you're good to go!
Or, as a last resort, you could use a voltage transformer. A voltage transformer will convert the voltage from 220-240 volts at the outlet, to 110-120 volts at the plug, so that you can safely use your CPAP or BiPAP machine abroad. The downside is that voltage transformers can be fairly bulky and heavy. They're not exactly the most convenient things to carry around with you. But hey, if you've got no other choice, a voltage transformer will do the job.
Whatever you do, don't mistake a voltage converter for a voltage transformer. They're entirely different things, and while voltage converters like you'd use for a hair dryer are smaller and lighter, they're not suitable for electronics or devices like CPAP and BiPAP machines.
Consumer Grade Audio/Video Equipment, including Televisions, A/V Receivers, CD/DVD/Blu-Ray Players, Game Consoles, Etc.
The short answer? Don't even bother. It's probably not worth the trouble.
The somewhat longer answer: When it comes to audio/video equipment, the electrical input is probably the least of your worries. Even if you're able to properly supply electricity to the equipment, there are numerous other compatibility issues which need to be addressed. And even if you address them all, you'll probably end up in a situation where the cure is worse than the disease -- hundreds of dollars worth of gadgets and cables scattered all over the place, and conversion after conversion, each of which (assuming they even work) degrading the eventual output to the point of frustration.
The bottom line is that A/V equipment just isn't built to be taken abroad. Even if your television is 100-240V multi-voltage compatible, there are differences in scan rates (30/60/120 frames per second in North America vs. 25/50/110 frames per second in Europe, for example) and broadcast standards (PAL vs. NTSC vs. SECAM) and tuning frequencies and DVD/Blu-Ray region coding, and on and on like that. It's a mess.
You'd need to talk to an A/V expert if you're really REALLY intent on taking your A/V equipment abroad. But even then, the answer will probably be the same: it's just not worth all the trouble. Manufacturers deliberately build these various incompatibilities in specifically so that A/V equipment can't be used outside of the country / region for which it's intended to be bought, sold and used. You could try to fight The Man on this, but The Man is almost certainly going to win.
Now, you might be saying "Okay, but I'm going to be running a completely closed system when I get there. All my equipment is American, and I won't be bringing any signals in from the outside. Just my own DVDs, maybe some internet streaming like Netflix, and stuff from my PC. Shouldn't that be okay?" Maybe, but again, probably not. You could give it a shot with a voltage transformer, but even then, there will probably be issues. Voltage transformers output "modified sine wave" or "stepped wave" electricity, and A/V equipment can be particularly sensitive to that. The degree to which it degrades the picture/sound output varies depending on the equipment, but it can be a significant problem. And signals from internet streaming services like Netflix, Hulu, PS Vue, Amazon, etc. will be fed to your devices according to the local standards, which will be incompatible with the standards your equipment was built for. Again, it's a mess.
We get it, you want to conquer this thing. The best way to do that? Concede, regroup at Red Lobster, and live to fight another day.
Small Kitchen Appliances, including Mixers, Toasters, Coffee Makers, Slow Cookers, Blenders, Food Processors, Microwave Ovens, etc.
For the sake of simplicity, let's just say small kitchen appliances are "never" dual-voltage or multi-voltage. Surely there are a handful of exceptions out there somewhere, but in the US and Canada, there's basically a 100% chance that your kitchen appliances are only compatible with 110-120 volt North American electricity.
But most small kitchen appliances can be safely (albeit less-effectively) used abroad with a voltage transformer. A voltage transformer takes the 220-240 volt electricity supplied by the outlet, and changes it to 110-120 volts for use by the appliance. (For a Type C or Type F European outlet, you would also need to attach a plug adapter, our item #EA9C or EA9, to the voltage transformer's plug, so that the transformer can plug into the British outlet.)
You'll need to determine the wattage requirement for your specific appliance. Some things, like hand mixers, require relatively little wattage, while things with heating elements, like coffee makers and toasters, require a much higher amount of wattage. Check the label on the bottom or back of your appliance, where the brand name and model number appear, and locate its electrical specifications. It should look something like "Input: 120V 60Hz 240W" where W indicates the wattage. You'll need a voltage transformer that's capable of supporting that amount of wattage or greater.
Sometimes the label will list amps (A) instead of watts (W) and if that's the case, simply multiply the volts by the amps to get a reasonable approximation of the watts. For example: "Input: 120V 60Hz 2.0A" 120 volts x 2.0 amps = 240 watts.
Want to use a power strip to gain additional outlets and plug multiple appliances into a single transformer? You can do that. But the transformer's wattage rating needs to be greater than the total combined wattage of all the appliances plugged into it at the same time. So for a 500 watt mixer, and a 500 watt blender, the transformer's capacity needs to be greater than 1000 watts. Also, make sure to use a simple power strip, and not a surge protector. Voltage transformers and surge protectors don't play nice together, and in certain rare but possible circumstances, it could create a fire or electrocution hazard.
Voltage transformers can be bulky and heavy, particularly at higher wattages. A 3000 watt transformer can weigh upwards of 35 pounds! So, while you may love that 2000 watt toaster, you'll want to think about whether it's really worth the trouble of plugging it into something that weighs over 30 pounds and is larger than the appliance itself.
Appliances with motors and clocks/timers will be affected by the difference in frequency (60Hz vs. 50Hz) and unfortunately there's just no way around that. Fortunately, in most cases, it's not a very significant issue. A motor will rotate one-sixth more slowly on 50Hz as opposed to 60Hz. So your mixer will run about 17% more slowly, as will your blender or food processor. But that's usually not a big deal, it might just take a little getting used to. A slightly more significant issue might be the timer on your microwave. If you set it for 5 minutes, it's going to actually run for 6 minutes, because the difference in frequency is making the timer count one-sixth more slowly. Again, this can usually be overcome by just getting used to making some mental adjustments when using the appliance. The problem gets more significant the longer the appliance is used at a time. For example, over an 8 hour slow cooker cycle, the timer will be off by more than a full hour!
Major Household Appliances, including Refrigerators, Air Conditioners, Washing Machines, Dishwashers, etc.
Most major appliances with fractional horsepower motors (like a washing machine or dishwasher) or compressors (like a refrigerator or air conditioner) can be safely used abroad with a voltage transformer. However, these kinds of appliances require a special type of voltage transformer known as a "3-tap" or "triple-tap" transformer.
Why? Fractional horsepower motors (FHP motors) and compressors are particularly heat-sensitive to the difference in the frequency (60Hz vs. 50Hz) of the alternating current. For smaller motors like those in small kitchen appliances, it's not a very significant issue. But larger motors, particularly ones that either run non-stop (refrigerators) or that continuously stop-and-start (washing machines) will overheat and burn out in short order if the difference in frequency isn't compensated for. A triple-tap transformer is an effective workaround for that issue.
To avoid overheating these FHP motors and/or compressors, a 60Hz motor should be run at roughly 10% lower voltage when operated on 50Hz frequency. So, for example, a 115V 60Hz motor should be run at roughly 100-105V 50Hz. Normal step-down voltage transformers only output 110-120V, and will therefore allow the frequency difference to overheat and burn out the motor. On the other hand, a triple-tap transformer outputs 100-105V, compensating for the difference in frequency and protecting the motor from overheating and eventual burnout.
Exceptions to this are clothes dryers, stoves/ovens/cooktops, and US and Canadian air conditioners intended to be run on a North American 220-240 volt circuit. You're probably already aware of the fact that clothes dryers and cooking appliances (stoves/ovens) typically plug into different types of outlets to begin with, as opposed to normal household outlets. This is because those appliances run on two-phase circuits. A normal household circuit has one 120 volt phase wire and one neutral wire, whereas a circuit for a clothes dryer or stove/oven has two 120 volt phase wires. This is also different from Europe, the UK and other countries where normal household outlets are 220-240 volts, because in those countries, those circuits consist of a single 220-240 volt phase wire and a neutral wire, as opposed to two 120 volt phase wires. Bottom line? They're incompatible, even with a voltage transformer. A local electrician may be able to solve the problem, but it's going to require some re-wiring. A gadget like a voltage transformer isn't going to help.
Lamps, Lights, Wall Sconces, Chandeliers, and Other Lighting Fixtures
Okay, let's get the easy part out of the way first: Chandeliers, wall sconces, fluorescent lighting fixtures, etc. are permanently-installed and hard-wired directly to the building's electrical system. Consult with a local electrician. There's probably a solution, but it will require some re-wiring. A gadget like a voltage converter or transformer doesn't apply to this kind of situation. (Well, it might, but it would be something an electrician needs to supply and install into a wall, or in the ceiling, etc.)
Freestanding lamps may be able to be used with a voltage transformer, albeit with some associated issues which may prove to be deal-breakers.
For one thing, are you even able to easily obtain replacement bulbs? In North America, light bulbs generally have screw-type connectors, whereas abroad they usually have bayonet-type connectors. Powering a lamp via a voltage transformer is likely to shorten the lifespan of the bulbs significantly, so expect to have to change bulbs out frequently.
Fluorescent bulbs are sensitive to the difference in frequency (60Hz vs. 50Hz) which will result in an annoying flicker if the frequency isn't what the bulb was designed for. Unfortunately, there's no practical solution for the frequency issue.
And then there's the matter of voltage transformers not exactly being the prettiest things in the world. Let's say your lamp has five 100-watt bulbs. You'd need at least a 500-watt voltage transformer, which isn't exactly tiny and unobtrusive. Perhaps you could conceal it behind a couch, or a plant, or something like that. But otherwise, your beautiful lamp would have a bulky, ugly piece of machinery sitting right next to it. You'll want to ask yourself whether it's really worth it.
The other solution would be to have an electrician completely re-wire the lamp, including the bulb sockets, if it's even possible to do so given any physical limitations/barriers based on the way the lamp was originally built. The question remains: Is it really worth all the trouble?
Lately, LED string lights seem to be gaining in popularity, and these things are often shipped directly from China or Japan via marketplace web sites like eBay. If you're buying LED string lights, pay very close attention to their electrical input requirements before you buy. If the information isn't published, ask the seller, and be sure they're telling you the truth.
LED string lights are often powered by way of a "brick" type power supply or an AC adapter, similar to the kind of power supply a laptop uses. And those are often multi-voltage compatible. Check its label and look for something like "Input: 100-240V" and if it says that, then you're in luck, because you just need a simple plug adapter that matches the type of outlet you need to plug into.
Otherwise, you may end up with LED string lights which were designed for Chinese 220 volt electricity, or Japanese 100 volt electricity. And at that point, your only solution is a voltage transformer. You'll need to determine how many watts your light string requires, and select a voltage transformer that can handle the wattage required by the lights.
Power Tools and Other Shop / Factory Machines
Charging stations for many newer model cordless power tools are multi-voltage compatible. Check the label on the bottom of the charging station and look for something to the effect of "Input: 100-240V"
If that's the case for your particular tool's charging station, then the difference in voltage is irrelevant, and the only issue is changing the shape of the charging station's plug so that it can physically interface with the foreign outlet. That requires only a simple plug adapter (for a Type C or Type F European outlet, that would be our item #EA9C or EA9.) The tool itself is running on direct current (DC) power from the battery, so things like frequency (Hz) are also irrelevant. Frequency only applies to alternating current (AC) power.
Corded power tools are a different and more complicated situation, because they're running directly on the alternating current (AC) power coming from the wall outlet, and therefore things like frequency (Hz) come into play. Corded power tools built to be powered by 110-120 volt North American electricity can be safely powered abroad by way of a voltage transformer, which will change the 220-240 volt electricity coming from the wall outlet to 110-120 volt power for use by the tool.
Check the nameplate on the tool, where the brand name and model number appear, and determine the tool's wattage (W) requirement. Sometimes the nameplate will list amps (A) instead of watts (W) and if that's the case, simply multiply the volts by the amps to get a reasonable approximation of the watts. For example: "Input: 120V 60Hz 10.0A" 120 volts x 10.0 amps = 1200 watts. You'll need a voltage transformer with a wattage capacity sufficient to handle the tool's wattage load.
In normal household applications, a "regular" voltage transformer will do the job just fine. But "regular" transformers are vented, and that can be a problem if you're in a shop or factory or other "harsh environment" where, for example, there might be sawdust flying all over the place. Sawdust gets inside the transformer, stuff burns up, bad situation. Don't even get us started on the potential hazards of thrown metal shavings coming into contact with other metal which is carrying electric current. Yikes!
If you're in an industrial environment, you might want to consider one of our Todd Systems transformers instead. The outer chassis of Todd Systems transformers are sealed with a modified polyester heat-cured varnish, thus protecting the transformer's internal metal windings from moisture, airborne particulates and other contaminants. They're (quite a bit) more expensive, but not nearly as expensive as a fire. (They can also be bolted down to a workbench or sawhorse or other work surface, which can be a significant feature.)
Back to the frequency issue.... Again, with cordless power tools, frequency isn't an issue because the tool itself is actually running on direct current (DC) power from the battery, and frequency only relates to alternating current (AC) power. But when a corded tool is running directly on AC power, the difference in frequency (60Hz vs. 50Hz) will affect the performance and the lifespan of the tool's fractional horsepower (FHP) motor.
One effect may not be all that significant. The difference in frequency will cause a 60Hz motor to rotate one-sixth more slowly when powered on 50Hz. That's objectively a 17% performance degradation, but how big an issue that is depends on the work being done. It might not even be noticeable with, for example, a drill. Or it might be a slight issue, but really just something you'll need to get used to. Or the tool being used may be entirely dependent on the motor running at a precise speed, and a 17% difference might be a deal-breaker. You'll need to draw your own conclusions on that.
The second effect is potentially a lot more serious. A 60Hz FHP motor will heat up a lot more quickly when run on 50Hz. Again, the degree to which this is significant depends on the work being done. If it's a circular saw, which will make a cut for a couple minutes, then sit for a couple minutes until the next cut, chances are it's never going to get to the point where the difference in frequency causes the motor to overheat and/or potentially burn out. But if it's a band saw, which will be running continuously for hours, the difference in frequency is likely to burn out the motor pretty quickly. Again, that's an assessment you'll need to make.
As a workaround for the overheating issue, you might consider a "3-tap" or "triple-tap" transformer. To avoid overheating a long-running FHP motor, a 60Hz motor should be run at roughly 10% lower voltage when operated on 50Hz frequency. So, for example, a 115V 60Hz motor should be run at roughly 100-105V 50Hz. Normal step-down voltage transformers only output 110-120V, and will therefore allow the frequency difference to overheat and burn out the motor. On the other hand, a triple-tap transformer outputs 100-105V, compensating for the difference in frequency and protecting the motor from overheating and eventual burnout.


Electrical Plug/Outlet and Voltage Information for Greece
Electrical Plug/Outlet and Voltage Information for Greece

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Availability : Out of stock
Wall outlets in the Hellenic Republic (Greece) are Type C (CEE 7/16 Europlug) and Type F (CEE 7/4 Schuko) and supply electricity at 230 volts AC / 50 Hz frequency. Chances are you're reading this because you're traveling there from the United States or Canada and are bringing things that will need to be plugged in there. The good news is that it's not nearly as complicated as you may think. In fact, in most cases, it's actually pretty simple. Once you've determined the electrical input requirements of the specific device(s) or appliance(s) you need to plug in abroad, you're already about 90% there. And that's also pretty simple, actually.
Note: While Type C and Type F outlets are very similar, their respective plugs' pins are different in size, and therefore ultimately they're physically incompatible and not interchangeable. Type C pins are 4.0mm in diameter, while Type F pins are 4.8mm in diameter. Outlets in any given specific building or room could be of either type, so you'll need to account for both.
Laptops, tablets / iPads, smartphones / iPhones, digital cameras and other digital-age "techie" electronic devices that run on batteries
These devices generally have chargers that are already compatible with any standard household voltage from 100 volts in Japan, to 240 volts in the UK. Simply check the charger's label and look for something to the effect of "Input: 100-240V"
If your charger says that, then stop right there! Because, guess what, you're done! Yes, it's just that easy.
Since your charger is already compatible with the 220 volt electricity coming from the European wall outlet, the only issue is changing the shape of the plug so that it can actually interface with the outlet. And that can be accomplished with a simple plug adapter. The adapter for a Type C outlet is our item #EA9C and the adapter for a Type F outlet is our item #EA9.
Hair dryers, curling irons, hair straighteners / flat irons and other bathroom appliances
As manufacturers smarten up to the fact that people tend to want to travel abroad with these things, more and more newer models are built to be dual-voltage compatible. Dual-voltage "travel models" are usually available just about anywhere you'd ordinarily buy this kind of thing, and they often don't cost any more than a regular single-voltage model.
Look for a voltage selector switch, usually somewhere on the handle. Don't worry about whether it says "110/220V" or "115/230V" or "120/240V" or "125/250V" because it's basically all the same, the specific numbers don't really matter. Simply set the switch to the higher voltage setting, attach a plug adapter (our item #EA9C or EA9 for the European Type C or Type F outlet) to the cord's plug, and you're all set.
But while dual-voltage models are widely available these days, most hair dryers, curling irons, etc. are still single-voltage. And if you plug a single-voltage (120 volts for the US and Canada) appliance into a 220-240 volt outlet, even with a plug adapter, you'll "fry" it, because 220-240 volts is just too much for the appliance to handle. You could even start a fire. If you don't see a voltage selector switch on the appliance, it's almost certainly single-voltage.
So what do you do if yours is single-voltage? Well, one option would be to buy a new one that's dual-voltage. But that can be expensive, especially if yours is fairly high-end, and/or if we're talking about a number of different appliances. And, hey, we can get attached to our particular bathroom appliances. We get it.
Another option is to use a voltage converter. Like, for example, our item #PB1650. A voltage converter will "step down" the voltage from 220-240 volts supplied by the outlet to 110-120 volts so that you can safely use the appliance without "frying" it. A voltage converter is often more economical than replacing one or more appliances, and you can use it with your hair dryer and curling iron and whatever else (one appliance at a time.) You'll also still need an adapter (item #EA9C or EA9 for a Type C or Type F European outlet) so that the voltage converter can plug into the European outlet. Outlet adapter voltage converter appliance. Problem solved!
PLEASE NOTE: While curling irons, flat irons and such are usually around 300-500 watts, hair dryers can sometimes be 1500-2000 watts! The model pictured above is actually 1875 watts, it says so right there on the side in big bold letters. Good thing it's dual-voltage, because a voltage converter wouldn't be able to handle it. Voltage converters only support up to 1600 watts. So if you have a single-voltage hair dryer that needs more than 1600 watts, you're out of luck. You'll need to buy a dual-voltage model.
CPAP and BiPAP Machines
Most newer model CPAP and BiPAP machines are multi-voltage compatible, from 100 volts in Japan to 240 volts in the UK, and therefore only need a simple plug adapter (in this case, for a Type C or Type F European outlet, that would be our item #EA9C or EA9) to change the shape of the plug so that it can interface with the foreign outlet.
To confirm this for your particular CPAP or BiPAP machine, check the label on its power supply. Most of them use a "brick" type power supply (if you're of a certain age, you may refer to this as an AC adapter) that's a lot like the kind you'd find with a laptop. Check its label and look for something to the effect of "Input: 100-240V"
If your machine's power supply says that, then just attach an adapter to its plug and you're all set!
Older models may be only compatible with a single voltage (for example, "Input: 120V") and if that's the case, then the next question is, is the "brick" power supply detachable? It probably is. If so, then you could just replace that part with one that's multi-voltage compatible. Power supplies like this are converting the AC power coming from the wall outlet to low-voltage direct current (DC) power for use by the appliance. The appliance itself runs on DC. So, for about $20, you could replace just that part with a multi-voltage equivalent. Just make sure it outputs the same DC voltage (usually 5, 12 or 24 volts DC) and amperage / wattage, and that its connector matches the connector on your CPAP or BiPAP machine. Then just attach an EA9C or EA9 adapter to the new multi-voltage power supply, and you're good to go!
Or, as a last resort, you could use a voltage transformer. A voltage transformer will convert the voltage from 220-240 volts at the outlet, to 110-120 volts at the plug, so that you can safely use your CPAP or BiPAP machine abroad. The downside is that voltage transformers can be fairly bulky and heavy. They're not exactly the most convenient things to carry around with you. But hey, if you've got no other choice, a voltage transformer will do the job.
Whatever you do, don't mistake a voltage converter for a voltage transformer. They're entirely different things, and while voltage converters like you'd use for a hair dryer are smaller and lighter, they're not suitable for electronics or devices like CPAP and BiPAP machines.
Consumer Grade Audio/Video Equipment, including Televisions, A/V Receivers, CD/DVD/Blu-Ray Players, Game Consoles, Etc.
The short answer? Don't even bother. It's probably not worth the trouble.
The somewhat longer answer: When it comes to audio/video equipment, the electrical input is probably the least of your worries. Even if you're able to properly supply electricity to the equipment, there are numerous other compatibility issues which need to be addressed. And even if you address them all, you'll probably end up in a situation where the cure is worse than the disease -- hundreds of dollars worth of gadgets and cables scattered all over the place, and conversion after conversion, each of which (assuming they even work) degrading the eventual output to the point of frustration.
The bottom line is that A/V equipment just isn't built to be taken abroad. Even if your television is 100-240V multi-voltage compatible, there are differences in scan rates (30/60/120 frames per second in North America vs. 25/50/110 frames per second in Europe, for example) and broadcast standards (PAL vs. NTSC vs. SECAM) and tuning frequencies and DVD/Blu-Ray region coding, and on and on like that. It's a mess.
You'd need to talk to an A/V expert if you're really REALLY intent on taking your A/V equipment abroad. But even then, the answer will probably be the same: it's just not worth all the trouble. Manufacturers deliberately build these various incompatibilities in specifically so that A/V equipment can't be used outside of the country / region for which it's intended to be bought, sold and used. You could try to fight The Man on this, but The Man is almost certainly going to win.
Now, you might be saying "Okay, but I'm going to be running a completely closed system when I get there. All my equipment is American, and I won't be bringing any signals in from the outside. Just my own DVDs, maybe some internet streaming like Netflix, and stuff from my PC. Shouldn't that be okay?" Maybe, but again, probably not. You could give it a shot with a voltage transformer, but even then, there will probably be issues. Voltage transformers output "modified sine wave" or "stepped wave" electricity, and A/V equipment can be particularly sensitive to that. The degree to which it degrades the picture/sound output varies depending on the equipment, but it can be a significant problem. And signals from internet streaming services like Netflix, Hulu, PS Vue, Amazon, etc. will be fed to your devices according to the local standards, which will be incompatible with the standards your equipment was built for. Again, it's a mess.
We get it, you want to conquer this thing. The best way to do that? Concede, regroup at Red Lobster, and live to fight another day.
Small Kitchen Appliances, including Mixers, Toasters, Coffee Makers, Slow Cookers, Blenders, Food Processors, Microwave Ovens, etc.
For the sake of simplicity, let's just say small kitchen appliances are "never" dual-voltage or multi-voltage. Surely there are a handful of exceptions out there somewhere, but in the US and Canada, there's basically a 100% chance that your kitchen appliances are only compatible with 110-120 volt North American electricity.
But most small kitchen appliances can be safely (albeit less-effectively) used abroad with a voltage transformer. A voltage transformer takes the 220-240 volt electricity supplied by the outlet, and changes it to 110-120 volts for use by the appliance. (For a Type C or Type F European outlet, you would also need to attach a plug adapter, our item #EA9C or EA9, to the voltage transformer's plug, so that the transformer can plug into the British outlet.)
You'll need to determine the wattage requirement for your specific appliance. Some things, like hand mixers, require relatively little wattage, while things with heating elements, like coffee makers and toasters, require a much higher amount of wattage. Check the label on the bottom or back of your appliance, where the brand name and model number appear, and locate its electrical specifications. It should look something like "Input: 120V 60Hz 240W" where W indicates the wattage. You'll need a voltage transformer that's capable of supporting that amount of wattage or greater.
Sometimes the label will list amps (A) instead of watts (W) and if that's the case, simply multiply the volts by the amps to get a reasonable approximation of the watts. For example: "Input: 120V 60Hz 2.0A" 120 volts x 2.0 amps = 240 watts.
Want to use a power strip to gain additional outlets and plug multiple appliances into a single transformer? You can do that. But the transformer's wattage rating needs to be greater than the total combined wattage of all the appliances plugged into it at the same time. So for a 500 watt mixer, and a 500 watt blender, the transformer's capacity needs to be greater than 1000 watts. Also, make sure to use a simple power strip, and not a surge protector. Voltage transformers and surge protectors don't play nice together, and in certain rare but possible circumstances, it could create a fire or electrocution hazard.
Voltage transformers can be bulky and heavy, particularly at higher wattages. A 3000 watt transformer can weigh upwards of 35 pounds! So, while you may love that 2000 watt toaster, you'll want to think about whether it's really worth the trouble of plugging it into something that weighs over 30 pounds and is larger than the appliance itself.
Appliances with motors and clocks/timers will be affected by the difference in frequency (60Hz vs. 50Hz) and unfortunately there's just no way around that. Fortunately, in most cases, it's not a very significant issue. A motor will rotate one-sixth more slowly on 50Hz as opposed to 60Hz. So your mixer will run about 17% more slowly, as will your blender or food processor. But that's usually not a big deal, it might just take a little getting used to. A slightly more significant issue might be the timer on your microwave. If you set it for 5 minutes, it's going to actually run for 6 minutes, because the difference in frequency is making the timer count one-sixth more slowly. Again, this can usually be overcome by just getting used to making some mental adjustments when using the appliance. The problem gets more significant the longer the appliance is used at a time. For example, over an 8 hour slow cooker cycle, the timer will be off by more than a full hour!
Major Household Appliances, including Refrigerators, Air Conditioners, Washing Machines, Dishwashers, etc.
Most major appliances with fractional horsepower motors (like a washing machine or dishwasher) or compressors (like a refrigerator or air conditioner) can be safely used abroad with a voltage transformer. However, these kinds of appliances require a special type of voltage transformer known as a "3-tap" or "triple-tap" transformer.
Why? Fractional horsepower motors (FHP motors) and compressors are particularly heat-sensitive to the difference in the frequency (60Hz vs. 50Hz) of the alternating current. For smaller motors like those in small kitchen appliances, it's not a very significant issue. But larger motors, particularly ones that either run non-stop (refrigerators) or that continuously stop-and-start (washing machines) will overheat and burn out in short order if the difference in frequency isn't compensated for. A triple-tap transformer is an effective workaround for that issue.
To avoid overheating these FHP motors and/or compressors, a 60Hz motor should be run at roughly 10% lower voltage when operated on 50Hz frequency. So, for example, a 115V 60Hz motor should be run at roughly 100-105V 50Hz. Normal step-down voltage transformers only output 110-120V, and will therefore allow the frequency difference to overheat and burn out the motor. On the other hand, a triple-tap transformer outputs 100-105V, compensating for the difference in frequency and protecting the motor from overheating and eventual burnout.
Exceptions to this are clothes dryers, stoves/ovens/cooktops, and US and Canadian air conditioners intended to be run on a North American 220-240 volt circuit. You're probably already aware of the fact that clothes dryers and cooking appliances (stoves/ovens) typically plug into different types of outlets to begin with, as opposed to normal household outlets. This is because those appliances run on two-phase circuits. A normal household circuit has one 120 volt phase wire and one neutral wire, whereas a circuit for a clothes dryer or stove/oven has two 120 volt phase wires. This is also different from Europe, the UK and other countries where normal household outlets are 220-240 volts, because in those countries, those circuits consist of a single 220-240 volt phase wire and a neutral wire, as opposed to two 120 volt phase wires. Bottom line? They're incompatible, even with a voltage transformer. A local electrician may be able to solve the problem, but it's going to require some re-wiring. A gadget like a voltage transformer isn't going to help.
Lamps, Lights, Wall Sconces, Chandeliers, and Other Lighting Fixtures
Okay, let's get the easy part out of the way first: Chandeliers, wall sconces, fluorescent lighting fixtures, etc. are permanently-installed and hard-wired directly to the building's electrical system. Consult with a local electrician. There's probably a solution, but it will require some re-wiring. A gadget like a voltage converter or transformer doesn't apply to this kind of situation. (Well, it might, but it would be something an electrician needs to supply and install into a wall, or in the ceiling, etc.)
Freestanding lamps may be able to be used with a voltage transformer, albeit with some associated issues which may prove to be deal-breakers.
For one thing, are you even able to easily obtain replacement bulbs? In North America, light bulbs generally have screw-type connectors, whereas abroad they usually have bayonet-type connectors. Powering a lamp via a voltage transformer is likely to shorten the lifespan of the bulbs significantly, so expect to have to change bulbs out frequently.
Fluorescent bulbs are sensitive to the difference in frequency (60Hz vs. 50Hz) which will result in an annoying flicker if the frequency isn't what the bulb was designed for. Unfortunately, there's no practical solution for the frequency issue.
And then there's the matter of voltage transformers not exactly being the prettiest things in the world. Let's say your lamp has five 100-watt bulbs. You'd need at least a 500-watt voltage transformer, which isn't exactly tiny and unobtrusive. Perhaps you could conceal it behind a couch, or a plant, or something like that. But otherwise, your beautiful lamp would have a bulky, ugly piece of machinery sitting right next to it. You'll want to ask yourself whether it's really worth it.
The other solution would be to have an electrician completely re-wire the lamp, including the bulb sockets, if it's even possible to do so given any physical limitations/barriers based on the way the lamp was originally built. The question remains: Is it really worth all the trouble?
Lately, LED string lights seem to be gaining in popularity, and these things are often shipped directly from China or Japan via marketplace web sites like eBay. If you're buying LED string lights, pay very close attention to their electrical input requirements before you buy. If the information isn't published, ask the seller, and be sure they're telling you the truth.
LED string lights are often powered by way of a "brick" type power supply or an AC adapter, similar to the kind of power supply a laptop uses. And those are often multi-voltage compatible. Check its label and look for something like "Input: 100-240V" and if it says that, then you're in luck, because you just need a simple plug adapter that matches the type of outlet you need to plug into.
Otherwise, you may end up with LED string lights which were designed for Chinese 220 volt electricity, or Japanese 100 volt electricity. And at that point, your only solution is a voltage transformer. You'll need to determine how many watts your light string requires, and select a voltage transformer that can handle the wattage required by the lights.
Power Tools and Other Shop / Factory Machines
Charging stations for many newer model cordless power tools are multi-voltage compatible. Check the label on the bottom of the charging station and look for something to the effect of "Input: 100-240V"
If that's the case for your particular tool's charging station, then the difference in voltage is irrelevant, and the only issue is changing the shape of the charging station's plug so that it can physically interface with the foreign outlet. That requires only a simple plug adapter (for a Type C or Type F European outlet, that would be our item #EA9C or EA9.) The tool itself is running on direct current (DC) power from the battery, so things like frequency (Hz) are also irrelevant. Frequency only applies to alternating current (AC) power.
Corded power tools are a different and more complicated situation, because they're running directly on the alternating current (AC) power coming from the wall outlet, and therefore things like frequency (Hz) come into play. Corded power tools built to be powered by 110-120 volt North American electricity can be safely powered abroad by way of a voltage transformer, which will change the 220-240 volt electricity coming from the wall outlet to 110-120 volt power for use by the tool.
Check the nameplate on the tool, where the brand name and model number appear, and determine the tool's wattage (W) requirement. Sometimes the nameplate will list amps (A) instead of watts (W) and if that's the case, simply multiply the volts by the amps to get a reasonable approximation of the watts. For example: "Input: 120V 60Hz 10.0A" 120 volts x 10.0 amps = 1200 watts. You'll need a voltage transformer with a wattage capacity sufficient to handle the tool's wattage load.
In normal household applications, a "regular" voltage transformer will do the job just fine. But "regular" transformers are vented, and that can be a problem if you're in a shop or factory or other "harsh environment" where, for example, there might be sawdust flying all over the place. Sawdust gets inside the transformer, stuff burns up, bad situation. Don't even get us started on the potential hazards of thrown metal shavings coming into contact with other metal which is carrying electric current. Yikes!
If you're in an industrial environment, you might want to consider one of our Todd Systems transformers instead. The outer chassis of Todd Systems transformers are sealed with a modified polyester heat-cured varnish, thus protecting the transformer's internal metal windings from moisture, airborne particulates and other contaminants. They're (quite a bit) more expensive, but not nearly as expensive as a fire. (They can also be bolted down to a workbench or sawhorse or other work surface, which can be a significant feature.)
Back to the frequency issue.... Again, with cordless power tools, frequency isn't an issue because the tool itself is actually running on direct current (DC) power from the battery, and frequency only relates to alternating current (AC) power. But when a corded tool is running directly on AC power, the difference in frequency (60Hz vs. 50Hz) will affect the performance and the lifespan of the tool's fractional horsepower (FHP) motor.
One effect may not be all that significant. The difference in frequency will cause a 60Hz motor to rotate one-sixth more slowly when powered on 50Hz. That's objectively a 17% performance degradation, but how big an issue that is depends on the work being done. It might not even be noticeable with, for example, a drill. Or it might be a slight issue, but really just something you'll need to get used to. Or the tool being used may be entirely dependent on the motor running at a precise speed, and a 17% difference might be a deal-breaker. You'll need to draw your own conclusions on that.
The second effect is potentially a lot more serious. A 60Hz FHP motor will heat up a lot more quickly when run on 50Hz. Again, the degree to which this is significant depends on the work being done. If it's a circular saw, which will make a cut for a couple minutes, then sit for a couple minutes until the next cut, chances are it's never going to get to the point where the difference in frequency causes the motor to overheat and/or potentially burn out. But if it's a band saw, which will be running continuously for hours, the difference in frequency is likely to burn out the motor pretty quickly. Again, that's an assessment you'll need to make.
As a workaround for the overheating issue, you might consider a "3-tap" or "triple-tap" transformer. To avoid overheating a long-running FHP motor, a 60Hz motor should be run at roughly 10% lower voltage when operated on 50Hz frequency. So, for example, a 115V 60Hz motor should be run at roughly 100-105V 50Hz. Normal step-down voltage transformers only output 110-120V, and will therefore allow the frequency difference to overheat and burn out the motor. On the other hand, a triple-tap transformer outputs 100-105V, compensating for the difference in frequency and protecting the motor from overheating and eventual burnout.


Electrical Plug/Outlet and Voltage Information for Finland
Electrical Plug/Outlet and Voltage Information for Finland

0 Reviews
Availability : Out of stock
Wall outlets in the Republic of Finland are Type C (CEE 7/16 Europlug) and Type F (CEE 7/4 Schuko) and supply electricity at 230 volts AC / 50 Hz frequency. Chances are you're reading this because you're traveling there from the United States or Canada and are bringing things that will need to be plugged in there. The good news is that it's not nearly as complicated as you may think. In fact, in most cases, it's actually pretty simple. Once you've determined the electrical input requirements of the specific device(s) or appliance(s) you need to plug in abroad, you're already about 90% there. And that's also pretty simple, actually.
Note: While Type C and Type F outlets are very similar, their respective plugs' pins are different in size, and therefore ultimately they're physically incompatible and not interchangeable. Type C pins are 4.0mm in diameter, while Type F pins are 4.8mm in diameter. Outlets in any given specific building or room could be of either type, so you'll need to account for both.
Laptops, tablets / iPads, smartphones / iPhones, digital cameras and other digital-age "techie" electronic devices that run on batteries
These devices generally have chargers that are already compatible with any standard household voltage from 100 volts in Japan, to 240 volts in the UK. Simply check the charger's label and look for something to the effect of "Input: 100-240V"
If your charger says that, then stop right there! Because, guess what, you're done! Yes, it's just that easy.
Since your charger is already compatible with the 220 volt electricity coming from the European wall outlet, the only issue is changing the shape of the plug so that it can actually interface with the outlet. And that can be accomplished with a simple plug adapter. The adapter for a Type C outlet is our item #EA9C and the adapter for a Type F outlet is our item #EA9.
Hair dryers, curling irons, hair straighteners / flat irons and other bathroom appliances
As manufacturers smarten up to the fact that people tend to want to travel abroad with these things, more and more newer models are built to be dual-voltage compatible. Dual-voltage "travel models" are usually available just about anywhere you'd ordinarily buy this kind of thing, and they often don't cost any more than a regular single-voltage model.
Look for a voltage selector switch, usually somewhere on the handle. Don't worry about whether it says "110/220V" or "115/230V" or "120/240V" or "125/250V" because it's basically all the same, the specific numbers don't really matter. Simply set the switch to the higher voltage setting, attach a plug adapter (our item #EA9C or EA9 for the European Type C or Type F outlet) to the cord's plug, and you're all set.
But while dual-voltage models are widely available these days, most hair dryers, curling irons, etc. are still single-voltage. And if you plug a single-voltage (120 volts for the US and Canada) appliance into a 220-240 volt outlet, even with a plug adapter, you'll "fry" it, because 220-240 volts is just too much for the appliance to handle. You could even start a fire. If you don't see a voltage selector switch on the appliance, it's almost certainly single-voltage.
So what do you do if yours is single-voltage? Well, one option would be to buy a new one that's dual-voltage. But that can be expensive, especially if yours is fairly high-end, and/or if we're talking about a number of different appliances. And, hey, we can get attached to our particular bathroom appliances. We get it.
Another option is to use a voltage converter. Like, for example, our item #PB1650. A voltage converter will "step down" the voltage from 220-240 volts supplied by the outlet to 110-120 volts so that you can safely use the appliance without "frying" it. A voltage converter is often more economical than replacing one or more appliances, and you can use it with your hair dryer and curling iron and whatever else (one appliance at a time.) You'll also still need an adapter (item #EA9C or EA9 for a Type C or Type F European outlet) so that the voltage converter can plug into the European outlet. Outlet adapter voltage converter appliance. Problem solved!
PLEASE NOTE: While curling irons, flat irons and such are usually around 300-500 watts, hair dryers can sometimes be 1500-2000 watts! The model pictured above is actually 1875 watts, it says so right there on the side in big bold letters. Good thing it's dual-voltage, because a voltage converter wouldn't be able to handle it. Voltage converters only support up to 1600 watts. So if you have a single-voltage hair dryer that needs more than 1600 watts, you're out of luck. You'll need to buy a dual-voltage model.
CPAP and BiPAP Machines
Most newer model CPAP and BiPAP machines are multi-voltage compatible, from 100 volts in Japan to 240 volts in the UK, and therefore only need a simple plug adapter (in this case, for a Type C or Type F European outlet, that would be our item #EA9C or EA9) to change the shape of the plug so that it can interface with the foreign outlet.
To confirm this for your particular CPAP or BiPAP machine, check the label on its power supply. Most of them use a "brick" type power supply (if you're of a certain age, you may refer to this as an AC adapter) that's a lot like the kind you'd find with a laptop. Check its label and look for something to the effect of "Input: 100-240V"
If your machine's power supply says that, then just attach an adapter to its plug and you're all set!
Older models may be only compatible with a single voltage (for example, "Input: 120V") and if that's the case, then the next question is, is the "brick" power supply detachable? It probably is. If so, then you could just replace that part with one that's multi-voltage compatible. Power supplies like this are converting the AC power coming from the wall outlet to low-voltage direct current (DC) power for use by the appliance. The appliance itself runs on DC. So, for about $20, you could replace just that part with a multi-voltage equivalent. Just make sure it outputs the same DC voltage (usually 5, 12 or 24 volts DC) and amperage / wattage, and that its connector matches the connector on your CPAP or BiPAP machine. Then just attach an EA9C or EA9 adapter to the new multi-voltage power supply, and you're good to go!
Or, as a last resort, you could use a voltage transformer. A voltage transformer will convert the voltage from 220-240 volts at the outlet, to 110-120 volts at the plug, so that you can safely use your CPAP or BiPAP machine abroad. The downside is that voltage transformers can be fairly bulky and heavy. They're not exactly the most convenient things to carry around with you. But hey, if you've got no other choice, a voltage transformer will do the job.
Whatever you do, don't mistake a voltage converter for a voltage transformer. They're entirely different things, and while voltage converters like you'd use for a hair dryer are smaller and lighter, they're not suitable for electronics or devices like CPAP and BiPAP machines.
Consumer Grade Audio/Video Equipment, including Televisions, A/V Receivers, CD/DVD/Blu-Ray Players, Game Consoles, Etc.
The short answer? Don't even bother. It's probably not worth the trouble.
The somewhat longer answer: When it comes to audio/video equipment, the electrical input is probably the least of your worries. Even if you're able to properly supply electricity to the equipment, there are numerous other compatibility issues which need to be addressed. And even if you address them all, you'll probably end up in a situation where the cure is worse than the disease -- hundreds of dollars worth of gadgets and cables scattered all over the place, and conversion after conversion, each of which (assuming they even work) degrading the eventual output to the point of frustration.
The bottom line is that A/V equipment just isn't built to be taken abroad. Even if your television is 100-240V multi-voltage compatible, there are differences in scan rates (30/60/120 frames per second in North America vs. 25/50/110 frames per second in Europe, for example) and broadcast standards (PAL vs. NTSC vs. SECAM) and tuning frequencies and DVD/Blu-Ray region coding, and on and on like that. It's a mess.
You'd need to talk to an A/V expert if you're really REALLY intent on taking your A/V equipment abroad. But even then, the answer will probably be the same: it's just not worth all the trouble. Manufacturers deliberately build these various incompatibilities in specifically so that A/V equipment can't be used outside of the country / region for which it's intended to be bought, sold and used. You could try to fight The Man on this, but The Man is almost certainly going to win.
Now, you might be saying "Okay, but I'm going to be running a completely closed system when I get there. All my equipment is American, and I won't be bringing any signals in from the outside. Just my own DVDs, maybe some internet streaming like Netflix, and stuff from my PC. Shouldn't that be okay?" Maybe, but again, probably not. You could give it a shot with a voltage transformer, but even then, there will probably be issues. Voltage transformers output "modified sine wave" or "stepped wave" electricity, and A/V equipment can be particularly sensitive to that. The degree to which it degrades the picture/sound output varies depending on the equipment, but it can be a significant problem. And signals from internet streaming services like Netflix, Hulu, PS Vue, Amazon, etc. will be fed to your devices according to the local standards, which will be incompatible with the standards your equipment was built for. Again, it's a mess.
We get it, you want to conquer this thing. The best way to do that? Concede, regroup at Red Lobster, and live to fight another day.
Small Kitchen Appliances, including Mixers, Toasters, Coffee Makers, Slow Cookers, Blenders, Food Processors, Microwave Ovens, etc.
For the sake of simplicity, let's just say small kitchen appliances are "never" dual-voltage or multi-voltage. Surely there are a handful of exceptions out there somewhere, but in the US and Canada, there's basically a 100% chance that your kitchen appliances are only compatible with 110-120 volt North American electricity.
But most small kitchen appliances can be safely (albeit less-effectively) used abroad with a voltage transformer. A voltage transformer takes the 220-240 volt electricity supplied by the outlet, and changes it to 110-120 volts for use by the appliance. (For a Type C or Type F European outlet, you would also need to attach a plug adapter, our item #EA9C or EA9, to the voltage transformer's plug, so that the transformer can plug into the British outlet.)
You'll need to determine the wattage requirement for your specific appliance. Some things, like hand mixers, require relatively little wattage, while things with heating elements, like coffee makers and toasters, require a much higher amount of wattage. Check the label on the bottom or back of your appliance, where the brand name and model number appear, and locate its electrical specifications. It should look something like "Input: 120V 60Hz 240W" where W indicates the wattage. You'll need a voltage transformer that's capable of supporting that amount of wattage or greater.
Sometimes the label will list amps (A) instead of watts (W) and if that's the case, simply multiply the volts by the amps to get a reasonable approximation of the watts. For example: "Input: 120V 60Hz 2.0A" 120 volts x 2.0 amps = 240 watts.
Want to use a power strip to gain additional outlets and plug multiple appliances into a single transformer? You can do that. But the transformer's wattage rating needs to be greater than the total combined wattage of all the appliances plugged into it at the same time. So for a 500 watt mixer, and a 500 watt blender, the transformer's capacity needs to be greater than 1000 watts. Also, make sure to use a simple power strip, and not a surge protector. Voltage transformers and surge protectors don't play nice together, and in certain rare but possible circumstances, it could create a fire or electrocution hazard.
Voltage transformers can be bulky and heavy, particularly at higher wattages. A 3000 watt transformer can weigh upwards of 35 pounds! So, while you may love that 2000 watt toaster, you'll want to think about whether it's really worth the trouble of plugging it into something that weighs over 30 pounds and is larger than the appliance itself.
Appliances with motors and clocks/timers will be affected by the difference in frequency (60Hz vs. 50Hz) and unfortunately there's just no way around that. Fortunately, in most cases, it's not a very significant issue. A motor will rotate one-sixth more slowly on 50Hz as opposed to 60Hz. So your mixer will run about 17% more slowly, as will your blender or food processor. But that's usually not a big deal, it might just take a little getting used to. A slightly more significant issue might be the timer on your microwave. If you set it for 5 minutes, it's going to actually run for 6 minutes, because the difference in frequency is making the timer count one-sixth more slowly. Again, this can usually be overcome by just getting used to making some mental adjustments when using the appliance. The problem gets more significant the longer the appliance is used at a time. For example, over an 8 hour slow cooker cycle, the timer will be off by more than a full hour!
Major Household Appliances, including Refrigerators, Air Conditioners, Washing Machines, Dishwashers, etc.
Most major appliances with fractional horsepower motors (like a washing machine or dishwasher) or compressors (like a refrigerator or air conditioner) can be safely used abroad with a voltage transformer. However, these kinds of appliances require a special type of voltage transformer known as a "3-tap" or "triple-tap" transformer.
Why? Fractional horsepower motors (FHP motors) and compressors are particularly heat-sensitive to the difference in the frequency (60Hz vs. 50Hz) of the alternating current. For smaller motors like those in small kitchen appliances, it's not a very significant issue. But larger motors, particularly ones that either run non-stop (refrigerators) or that continuously stop-and-start (washing machines) will overheat and burn out in short order if the difference in frequency isn't compensated for. A triple-tap transformer is an effective workaround for that issue.
To avoid overheating these FHP motors and/or compressors, a 60Hz motor should be run at roughly 10% lower voltage when operated on 50Hz frequency. So, for example, a 115V 60Hz motor should be run at roughly 100-105V 50Hz. Normal step-down voltage transformers only output 110-120V, and will therefore allow the frequency difference to overheat and burn out the motor. On the other hand, a triple-tap transformer outputs 100-105V, compensating for the difference in frequency and protecting the motor from overheating and eventual burnout.
Exceptions to this are clothes dryers, stoves/ovens/cooktops, and US and Canadian air conditioners intended to be run on a North American 220-240 volt circuit. You're probably already aware of the fact that clothes dryers and cooking appliances (stoves/ovens) typically plug into different types of outlets to begin with, as opposed to normal household outlets. This is because those appliances run on two-phase circuits. A normal household circuit has one 120 volt phase wire and one neutral wire, whereas a circuit for a clothes dryer or stove/oven has two 120 volt phase wires. This is also different from Europe, the UK and other countries where normal household outlets are 220-240 volts, because in those countries, those circuits consist of a single 220-240 volt phase wire and a neutral wire, as opposed to two 120 volt phase wires. Bottom line? They're incompatible, even with a voltage transformer. A local electrician may be able to solve the problem, but it's going to require some re-wiring. A gadget like a voltage transformer isn't going to help.
Lamps, Lights, Wall Sconces, Chandeliers, and Other Lighting Fixtures
Okay, let's get the easy part out of the way first: Chandeliers, wall sconces, fluorescent lighting fixtures, etc. are permanently-installed and hard-wired directly to the building's electrical system. Consult with a local electrician. There's probably a solution, but it will require some re-wiring. A gadget like a voltage converter or transformer doesn't apply to this kind of situation. (Well, it might, but it would be something an electrician needs to supply and install into a wall, or in the ceiling, etc.)
Freestanding lamps may be able to be used with a voltage transformer, albeit with some associated issues which may prove to be deal-breakers.
For one thing, are you even able to easily obtain replacement bulbs? In North America, light bulbs generally have screw-type connectors, whereas abroad they usually have bayonet-type connectors. Powering a lamp via a voltage transformer is likely to shorten the lifespan of the bulbs significantly, so expect to have to change bulbs out frequently.
Fluorescent bulbs are sensitive to the difference in frequency (60Hz vs. 50Hz) which will result in an annoying flicker if the frequency isn't what the bulb was designed for. Unfortunately, there's no practical solution for the frequency issue.
And then there's the matter of voltage transformers not exactly being the prettiest things in the world. Let's say your lamp has five 100-watt bulbs. You'd need at least a 500-watt voltage transformer, which isn't exactly tiny and unobtrusive. Perhaps you could conceal it behind a couch, or a plant, or something like that. But otherwise, your beautiful lamp would have a bulky, ugly piece of machinery sitting right next to it. You'll want to ask yourself whether it's really worth it.
The other solution would be to have an electrician completely re-wire the lamp, including the bulb sockets, if it's even possible to do so given any physical limitations/barriers based on the way the lamp was originally built. The question remains: Is it really worth all the trouble?
Lately, LED string lights seem to be gaining in popularity, and these things are often shipped directly from China or Japan via marketplace web sites like eBay. If you're buying LED string lights, pay very close attention to their electrical input requirements before you buy. If the information isn't published, ask the seller, and be sure they're telling you the truth.
LED string lights are often powered by way of a "brick" type power supply or an AC adapter, similar to the kind of power supply a laptop uses. And those are often multi-voltage compatible. Check its label and look for something like "Input: 100-240V" and if it says that, then you're in luck, because you just need a simple plug adapter that matches the type of outlet you need to plug into.
Otherwise, you may end up with LED string lights which were designed for Chinese 220 volt electricity, or Japanese 100 volt electricity. And at that point, your only solution is a voltage transformer. You'll need to determine how many watts your light string requires, and select a voltage transformer that can handle the wattage required by the lights.
Power Tools and Other Shop / Factory Machines
Charging stations for many newer model cordless power tools are multi-voltage compatible. Check the label on the bottom of the charging station and look for something to the effect of "Input: 100-240V"
If that's the case for your particular tool's charging station, then the difference in voltage is irrelevant, and the only issue is changing the shape of the charging station's plug so that it can physically interface with the foreign outlet. That requires only a simple plug adapter (for a Type C or Type F European outlet, that would be our item #EA9C or EA9.) The tool itself is running on direct current (DC) power from the battery, so things like frequency (Hz) are also irrelevant. Frequency only applies to alternating current (AC) power.
Corded power tools are a different and more complicated situation, because they're running directly on the alternating current (AC) power coming from the wall outlet, and therefore things like frequency (Hz) come into play. Corded power tools built to be powered by 110-120 volt North American electricity can be safely powered abroad by way of a voltage transformer, which will change the 220-240 volt electricity coming from the wall outlet to 110-120 volt power for use by the tool.
Check the nameplate on the tool, where the brand name and model number appear, and determine the tool's wattage (W) requirement. Sometimes the nameplate will list amps (A) instead of watts (W) and if that's the case, simply multiply the volts by the amps to get a reasonable approximation of the watts. For example: "Input: 120V 60Hz 10.0A" 120 volts x 10.0 amps = 1200 watts. You'll need a voltage transformer with a wattage capacity sufficient to handle the tool's wattage load.
In normal household applications, a "regular" voltage transformer will do the job just fine. But "regular" transformers are vented, and that can be a problem if you're in a shop or factory or other "harsh environment" where, for example, there might be sawdust flying all over the place. Sawdust gets inside the transformer, stuff burns up, bad situation. Don't even get us started on the potential hazards of thrown metal shavings coming into contact with other metal which is carrying electric current. Yikes!
If you're in an industrial environment, you might want to consider one of our Todd Systems transformers instead. The outer chassis of Todd Systems transformers are sealed with a modified polyester heat-cured varnish, thus protecting the transformer's internal metal windings from moisture, airborne particulates and other contaminants. They're (quite a bit) more expensive, but not nearly as expensive as a fire. (They can also be bolted down to a workbench or sawhorse or other work surface, which can be a significant feature.)
Back to the frequency issue.... Again, with cordless power tools, frequency isn't an issue because the tool itself is actually running on direct current (DC) power from the battery, and frequency only relates to alternating current (AC) power. But when a corded tool is running directly on AC power, the difference in frequency (60Hz vs. 50Hz) will affect the performance and the lifespan of the tool's fractional horsepower (FHP) motor.
One effect may not be all that significant. The difference in frequency will cause a 60Hz motor to rotate one-sixth more slowly when powered on 50Hz. That's objectively a 17% performance degradation, but how big an issue that is depends on the work being done. It might not even be noticeable with, for example, a drill. Or it might be a slight issue, but really just something you'll need to get used to. Or the tool being used may be entirely dependent on the motor running at a precise speed, and a 17% difference might be a deal-breaker. You'll need to draw your own conclusions on that.
The second effect is potentially a lot more serious. A 60Hz FHP motor will heat up a lot more quickly when run on 50Hz. Again, the degree to which this is significant depends on the work being done. If it's a circular saw, which will make a cut for a couple minutes, then sit for a couple minutes until the next cut, chances are it's never going to get to the point where the difference in frequency causes the motor to overheat and/or potentially burn out. But if it's a band saw, which will be running continuously for hours, the difference in frequency is likely to burn out the motor pretty quickly. Again, that's an assessment you'll need to make.
As a workaround for the overheating issue, you might consider a "3-tap" or "triple-tap" transformer. To avoid overheating a long-running FHP motor, a 60Hz motor should be run at roughly 10% lower voltage when operated on 50Hz frequency. So, for example, a 115V 60Hz motor should be run at roughly 100-105V 50Hz. Normal step-down voltage transformers only output 110-120V, and will therefore allow the frequency difference to overheat and burn out the motor. On the other hand, a triple-tap transformer outputs 100-105V, compensating for the difference in frequency and protecting the motor from overheating and eventual burnout.


Electrical Plug/Outlet and Voltage Information for Georgia
Electrical Plug/Outlet and Voltage Information for Georgia

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Wall outlets in Georgia are Type C (CEE 7/16 Europlug) and Type F (CEE 7/4 Schuko) and supply electricity at 220 volts AC / 50 Hz frequency. Chances are you're reading this because you're traveling there from the United States or Canada and are bringing things that will need to be plugged in there. The good news is that it's not nearly as complicated as you may think. In fact, in most cases, it's actually pretty simple. Once you've determined the electrical input requirements of the specific device(s) or appliance(s) you need to plug in abroad, you're already about 90% there. And that's also pretty simple, actually.
Note: While Type C and Type F outlets are very similar, their respective plugs' pins are different in size, and therefore ultimately they're physically incompatible and not interchangeable. Type C pins are 4.0mm in diameter, while Type F pins are 4.8mm in diameter. Outlets in any given specific building or room could be of either type, so you'll need to account for both.
Laptops, tablets / iPads, smartphones / iPhones, digital cameras and other digital-age "techie" electronic devices that run on batteries
These devices generally have chargers that are already compatible with any standard household voltage from 100 volts in Japan, to 240 volts in the UK. Simply check the charger's label and look for something to the effect of "Input: 100-240V"
If your charger says that, then stop right there! Because, guess what, you're done! Yes, it's just that easy.
Since your charger is already compatible with the 220 volt electricity coming from the European wall outlet, the only issue is changing the shape of the plug so that it can actually interface with the outlet. And that can be accomplished with a simple plug adapter. The adapter for a Type C outlet is our item #EA9C and the adapter for a Type F outlet is our item #EA9.
Hair dryers, curling irons, hair straighteners / flat irons and other bathroom appliances
As manufacturers smarten up to the fact that people tend to want to travel abroad with these things, more and more newer models are built to be dual-voltage compatible. Dual-voltage "travel models" are usually available just about anywhere you'd ordinarily buy this kind of thing, and they often don't cost any more than a regular single-voltage model.
Look for a voltage selector switch, usually somewhere on the handle. Don't worry about whether it says "110/220V" or "115/230V" or "120/240V" or "125/250V" because it's basically all the same, the specific numbers don't really matter. Simply set the switch to the higher voltage setting, attach a plug adapter (our item #EA9C or EA9 for the European Type C or Type F outlet) to the cord's plug, and you're all set.
But while dual-voltage models are widely available these days, most hair dryers, curling irons, etc. are still single-voltage. And if you plug a single-voltage (120 volts for the US and Canada) appliance into a 220-240 volt outlet, even with a plug adapter, you'll "fry" it, because 220-240 volts is just too much for the appliance to handle. You could even start a fire. If you don't see a voltage selector switch on the appliance, it's almost certainly single-voltage.
So what do you do if yours is single-voltage? Well, one option would be to buy a new one that's dual-voltage. But that can be expensive, especially if yours is fairly high-end, and/or if we're talking about a number of different appliances. And, hey, we can get attached to our particular bathroom appliances. We get it.
Another option is to use a voltage converter. Like, for example, our item #PB1650. A voltage converter will "step down" the voltage from 220-240 volts supplied by the outlet to 110-120 volts so that you can safely use the appliance without "frying" it. A voltage converter is often more economical than replacing one or more appliances, and you can use it with your hair dryer and curling iron and whatever else (one appliance at a time.) You'll also still need an adapter (item #EA9C or EA9 for a Type C or Type F European outlet) so that the voltage converter can plug into the European outlet. Outlet adapter voltage converter appliance. Problem solved!
PLEASE NOTE: While curling irons, flat irons and such are usually around 300-500 watts, hair dryers can sometimes be 1500-2000 watts! The model pictured above is actually 1875 watts, it says so right there on the side in big bold letters. Good thing it's dual-voltage, because a voltage converter wouldn't be able to handle it. Voltage converters only support up to 1600 watts. So if you have a single-voltage hair dryer that needs more than 1600 watts, you're out of luck. You'll need to buy a dual-voltage model.
CPAP and BiPAP Machines
Most newer model CPAP and BiPAP machines are multi-voltage compatible, from 100 volts in Japan to 240 volts in the UK, and therefore only need a simple plug adapter (in this case, for a Type C or Type F European outlet, that would be our item #EA9C or EA9) to change the shape of the plug so that it can interface with the foreign outlet.
To confirm this for your particular CPAP or BiPAP machine, check the label on its power supply. Most of them use a "brick" type power supply (if you're of a certain age, you may refer to this as an AC adapter) that's a lot like the kind you'd find with a laptop. Check its label and look for something to the effect of "Input: 100-240V"
If your machine's power supply says that, then just attach an adapter to its plug and you're all set!
Older models may be only compatible with a single voltage (for example, "Input: 120V") and if that's the case, then the next question is, is the "brick" power supply detachable? It probably is. If so, then you could just replace that part with one that's multi-voltage compatible. Power supplies like this are converting the AC power coming from the wall outlet to low-voltage direct current (DC) power for use by the appliance. The appliance itself runs on DC. So, for about $20, you could replace just that part with a multi-voltage equivalent. Just make sure it outputs the same DC voltage (usually 5, 12 or 24 volts DC) and amperage / wattage, and that its connector matches the connector on your CPAP or BiPAP machine. Then just attach an EA9C or EA9 adapter to the new multi-voltage power supply, and you're good to go!
Or, as a last resort, you could use a voltage transformer. A voltage transformer will convert the voltage from 220-240 volts at the outlet, to 110-120 volts at the plug, so that you can safely use your CPAP or BiPAP machine abroad. The downside is that voltage transformers can be fairly bulky and heavy. They're not exactly the most convenient things to carry around with you. But hey, if you've got no other choice, a voltage transformer will do the job.
Whatever you do, don't mistake a voltage converter for a voltage transformer. They're entirely different things, and while voltage converters like you'd use for a hair dryer are smaller and lighter, they're not suitable for electronics or devices like CPAP and BiPAP machines.
Consumer Grade Audio/Video Equipment, including Televisions, A/V Receivers, CD/DVD/Blu-Ray Players, Game Consoles, Etc.
The short answer? Don't even bother. It's probably not worth the trouble.
The somewhat longer answer: When it comes to audio/video equipment, the electrical input is probably the least of your worries. Even if you're able to properly supply electricity to the equipment, there are numerous other compatibility issues which need to be addressed. And even if you address them all, you'll probably end up in a situation where the cure is worse than the disease -- hundreds of dollars worth of gadgets and cables scattered all over the place, and conversion after conversion, each of which (assuming they even work) degrading the eventual output to the point of frustration.
The bottom line is that A/V equipment just isn't built to be taken abroad. Even if your television is 100-240V multi-voltage compatible, there are differences in scan rates (30/60/120 frames per second in North America vs. 25/50/110 frames per second in Europe, for example) and broadcast standards (PAL vs. NTSC vs. SECAM) and tuning frequencies and DVD/Blu-Ray region coding, and on and on like that. It's a mess.
You'd need to talk to an A/V expert if you're really REALLY intent on taking your A/V equipment abroad. But even then, the answer will probably be the same: it's just not worth all the trouble. Manufacturers deliberately build these various incompatibilities in specifically so that A/V equipment can't be used outside of the country / region for which it's intended to be bought, sold and used. You could try to fight The Man on this, but The Man is almost certainly going to win.
Now, you might be saying "Okay, but I'm going to be running a completely closed system when I get there. All my equipment is American, and I won't be bringing any signals in from the outside. Just my own DVDs, maybe some internet streaming like Netflix, and stuff from my PC. Shouldn't that be okay?" Maybe, but again, probably not. You could give it a shot with a voltage transformer, but even then, there will probably be issues. Voltage transformers output "modified sine wave" or "stepped wave" electricity, and A/V equipment can be particularly sensitive to that. The degree to which it degrades the picture/sound output varies depending on the equipment, but it can be a significant problem. And signals from internet streaming services like Netflix, Hulu, PS Vue, Amazon, etc. will be fed to your devices according to the local standards, which will be incompatible with the standards your equipment was built for. Again, it's a mess.
We get it, you want to conquer this thing. The best way to do that? Concede, regroup at Red Lobster, and live to fight another day.
Small Kitchen Appliances, including Mixers, Toasters, Coffee Makers, Slow Cookers, Blenders, Food Processors, Microwave Ovens, etc.
For the sake of simplicity, let's just say small kitchen appliances are "never" dual-voltage or multi-voltage. Surely there are a handful of exceptions out there somewhere, but in the US and Canada, there's basically a 100% chance that your kitchen appliances are only compatible with 110-120 volt North American electricity.
But most small kitchen appliances can be safely (albeit less-effectively) used abroad with a voltage transformer. A voltage transformer takes the 220-240 volt electricity supplied by the outlet, and changes it to 110-120 volts for use by the appliance. (For a Type C or Type F European outlet, you would also need to attach a plug adapter, our item #EA9C or EA9, to the voltage transformer's plug, so that the transformer can plug into the British outlet.)
You'll need to determine the wattage requirement for your specific appliance. Some things, like hand mixers, require relatively little wattage, while things with heating elements, like coffee makers and toasters, require a much higher amount of wattage. Check the label on the bottom or back of your appliance, where the brand name and model number appear, and locate its electrical specifications. It should look something like "Input: 120V 60Hz 240W" where W indicates the wattage. You'll need a voltage transformer that's capable of supporting that amount of wattage or greater.
Sometimes the label will list amps (A) instead of watts (W) and if that's the case, simply multiply the volts by the amps to get a reasonable approximation of the watts. For example: "Input: 120V 60Hz 2.0A" 120 volts x 2.0 amps = 240 watts.
Want to use a power strip to gain additional outlets and plug multiple appliances into a single transformer? You can do that. But the transformer's wattage rating needs to be greater than the total combined wattage of all the appliances plugged into it at the same time. So for a 500 watt mixer, and a 500 watt blender, the transformer's capacity needs to be greater than 1000 watts. Also, make sure to use a simple power strip, and not a surge protector. Voltage transformers and surge protectors don't play nice together, and in certain rare but possible circumstances, it could create a fire or electrocution hazard.
Voltage transformers can be bulky and heavy, particularly at higher wattages. A 3000 watt transformer can weigh upwards of 35 pounds! So, while you may love that 2000 watt toaster, you'll want to think about whether it's really worth the trouble of plugging it into something that weighs over 30 pounds and is larger than the appliance itself.
Appliances with motors and clocks/timers will be affected by the difference in frequency (60Hz vs. 50Hz) and unfortunately there's just no way around that. Fortunately, in most cases, it's not a very significant issue. A motor will rotate one-sixth more slowly on 50Hz as opposed to 60Hz. So your mixer will run about 17% more slowly, as will your blender or food processor. But that's usually not a big deal, it might just take a little getting used to. A slightly more significant issue might be the timer on your microwave. If you set it for 5 minutes, it's going to actually run for 6 minutes, because the difference in frequency is making the timer count one-sixth more slowly. Again, this can usually be overcome by just getting used to making some mental adjustments when using the appliance. The problem gets more significant the longer the appliance is used at a time. For example, over an 8 hour slow cooker cycle, the timer will be off by more than a full hour!
Major Household Appliances, including Refrigerators, Air Conditioners, Washing Machines, Dishwashers, etc.
Most major appliances with fractional horsepower motors (like a washing machine or dishwasher) or compressors (like a refrigerator or air conditioner) can be safely used abroad with a voltage transformer. However, these kinds of appliances require a special type of voltage transformer known as a "3-tap" or "triple-tap" transformer.
Why? Fractional horsepower motors (FHP motors) and compressors are particularly heat-sensitive to the difference in the frequency (60Hz vs. 50Hz) of the alternating current. For smaller motors like those in small kitchen appliances, it's not a very significant issue. But larger motors, particularly ones that either run non-stop (refrigerators) or that continuously stop-and-start (washing machines) will overheat and burn out in short order if the difference in frequency isn't compensated for. A triple-tap transformer is an effective workaround for that issue.
To avoid overheating these FHP motors and/or compressors, a 60Hz motor should be run at roughly 10% lower voltage when operated on 50Hz frequency. So, for example, a 115V 60Hz motor should be run at roughly 100-105V 50Hz. Normal step-down voltage transformers only output 110-120V, and will therefore allow the frequency difference to overheat and burn out the motor. On the other hand, a triple-tap transformer outputs 100-105V, compensating for the difference in frequency and protecting the motor from overheating and eventual burnout.
Exceptions to this are clothes dryers, stoves/ovens/cooktops, and US and Canadian air conditioners intended to be run on a North American 220-240 volt circuit. You're probably already aware of the fact that clothes dryers and cooking appliances (stoves/ovens) typically plug into different types of outlets to begin with, as opposed to normal household outlets. This is because those appliances run on two-phase circuits. A normal household circuit has one 120 volt phase wire and one neutral wire, whereas a circuit for a clothes dryer or stove/oven has two 120 volt phase wires. This is also different from Europe, the UK and other countries where normal household outlets are 220-240 volts, because in those countries, those circuits consist of a single 220-240 volt phase wire and a neutral wire, as opposed to two 120 volt phase wires. Bottom line? They're incompatible, even with a voltage transformer. A local electrician may be able to solve the problem, but it's going to require some re-wiring. A gadget like a voltage transformer isn't going to help.
Lamps, Lights, Wall Sconces, Chandeliers, and Other Lighting Fixtures
Okay, let's get the easy part out of the way first: Chandeliers, wall sconces, fluorescent lighting fixtures, etc. are permanently-installed and hard-wired directly to the building's electrical system. Consult with a local electrician. There's probably a solution, but it will require some re-wiring. A gadget like a voltage converter or transformer doesn't apply to this kind of situation. (Well, it might, but it would be something an electrician needs to supply and install into a wall, or in the ceiling, etc.)
Freestanding lamps may be able to be used with a voltage transformer, albeit with some associated issues which may prove to be deal-breakers.
For one thing, are you even able to easily obtain replacement bulbs? In North America, light bulbs generally have screw-type connectors, whereas abroad they usually have bayonet-type connectors. Powering a lamp via a voltage transformer is likely to shorten the lifespan of the bulbs significantly, so expect to have to change bulbs out frequently.
Fluorescent bulbs are sensitive to the difference in frequency (60Hz vs. 50Hz) which will result in an annoying flicker if the frequency isn't what the bulb was designed for. Unfortunately, there's no practical solution for the frequency issue.
And then there's the matter of voltage transformers not exactly being the prettiest things in the world. Let's say your lamp has five 100-watt bulbs. You'd need at least a 500-watt voltage transformer, which isn't exactly tiny and unobtrusive. Perhaps you could conceal it behind a couch, or a plant, or something like that. But otherwise, your beautiful lamp would have a bulky, ugly piece of machinery sitting right next to it. You'll want to ask yourself whether it's really worth it.
The other solution would be to have an electrician completely re-wire the lamp, including the bulb sockets, if it's even possible to do so given any physical limitations/barriers based on the way the lamp was originally built. The question remains: Is it really worth all the trouble?
Lately, LED string lights seem to be gaining in popularity, and these things are often shipped directly from China or Japan via marketplace web sites like eBay. If you're buying LED string lights, pay very close attention to their electrical input requirements before you buy. If the information isn't published, ask the seller, and be sure they're telling you the truth.
LED string lights are often powered by way of a "brick" type power supply or an AC adapter, similar to the kind of power supply a laptop uses. And those are often multi-voltage compatible. Check its label and look for something like "Input: 100-240V" and if it says that, then you're in luck, because you just need a simple plug adapter that matches the type of outlet you need to plug into.
Otherwise, you may end up with LED string lights which were designed for Chinese 220 volt electricity, or Japanese 100 volt electricity. And at that point, your only solution is a voltage transformer. You'll need to determine how many watts your light string requires, and select a voltage transformer that can handle the wattage required by the lights.
Power Tools and Other Shop / Factory Machines
Charging stations for many newer model cordless power tools are multi-voltage compatible. Check the label on the bottom of the charging station and look for something to the effect of "Input: 100-240V"
If that's the case for your particular tool's charging station, then the difference in voltage is irrelevant, and the only issue is changing the shape of the charging station's plug so that it can physically interface with the foreign outlet. That requires only a simple plug adapter (for a Type C or Type F European outlet, that would be our item #EA9C or EA9.) The tool itself is running on direct current (DC) power from the battery, so things like frequency (Hz) are also irrelevant. Frequency only applies to alternating current (AC) power.
Corded power tools are a different and more complicated situation, because they're running directly on the alternating current (AC) power coming from the wall outlet, and therefore things like frequency (Hz) come into play. Corded power tools built to be powered by 110-120 volt North American electricity can be safely powered abroad by way of a voltage transformer, which will change the 220-240 volt electricity coming from the wall outlet to 110-120 volt power for use by the tool.
Check the nameplate on the tool, where the brand name and model number appear, and determine the tool's wattage (W) requirement. Sometimes the nameplate will list amps (A) instead of watts (W) and if that's the case, simply multiply the volts by the amps to get a reasonable approximation of the watts. For example: "Input: 120V 60Hz 10.0A" 120 volts x 10.0 amps = 1200 watts. You'll need a voltage transformer with a wattage capacity sufficient to handle the tool's wattage load.
In normal household applications, a "regular" voltage transformer will do the job just fine. But "regular" transformers are vented, and that can be a problem if you're in a shop or factory or other "harsh environment" where, for example, there might be sawdust flying all over the place. Sawdust gets inside the transformer, stuff burns up, bad situation. Don't even get us started on the potential hazards of thrown metal shavings coming into contact with other metal which is carrying electric current. Yikes!
If you're in an industrial environment, you might want to consider one of our Todd Systems transformers instead. The outer chassis of Todd Systems transformers are sealed with a modified polyester heat-cured varnish, thus protecting the transformer's internal metal windings from moisture, airborne particulates and other contaminants. They're (quite a bit) more expensive, but not nearly as expensive as a fire. (They can also be bolted down to a workbench or sawhorse or other work surface, which can be a significant feature.)
Back to the frequency issue.... Again, with cordless power tools, frequency isn't an issue because the tool itself is actually running on direct current (DC) power from the battery, and frequency only relates to alternating current (AC) power. But when a corded tool is running directly on AC power, the difference in frequency (60Hz vs. 50Hz) will affect the performance and the lifespan of the tool's fractional horsepower (FHP) motor.
One effect may not be all that significant. The difference in frequency will cause a 60Hz motor to rotate one-sixth more slowly when powered on 50Hz. That's objectively a 17% performance degradation, but how big an issue that is depends on the work being done. It might not even be noticeable with, for example, a drill. Or it might be a slight issue, but really just something you'll need to get used to. Or the tool being used may be entirely dependent on the motor running at a precise speed, and a 17% difference might be a deal-breaker. You'll need to draw your own conclusions on that.
The second effect is potentially a lot more serious. A 60Hz FHP motor will heat up a lot more quickly when run on 50Hz. Again, the degree to which this is significant depends on the work being done. If it's a circular saw, which will make a cut for a couple minutes, then sit for a couple minutes until the next cut, chances are it's never going to get to the point where the difference in frequency causes the motor to overheat and/or potentially burn out. But if it's a band saw, which will be running continuously for hours, the difference in frequency is likely to burn out the motor pretty quickly. Again, that's an assessment you'll need to make.
As a workaround for the overheating issue, you might consider a "3-tap" or "triple-tap" transformer. To avoid overheating a long-running FHP motor, a 60Hz motor should be run at roughly 10% lower voltage when operated on 50Hz frequency. So, for example, a 115V 60Hz motor should be run at roughly 100-105V 50Hz. Normal step-down voltage transformers only output 110-120V, and will therefore allow the frequency difference to overheat and burn out the motor. On the other hand, a triple-tap transformer outputs 100-105V, compensating for the difference in frequency and protecting the motor from overheating and eventual burnout.


Krieger ULT850 Professional Grade Step-Up/Step-Down Voltage Transformer (850 Watt Capacity)
Krieger ULT850 Professional Grade Step-Up/Step-Down Voltage Transformer (850 Watt Capacity)

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Krieger Professional Grade voltage transformers can be used as either a step up transformer or a step down transformer. This professional grade voltage transformer can be used in 110 volt countries and 220 volt countries. It will convert from 220-240 volts to 110-120 volts AND from 110-120 volts to 220-240 volts. Simply select the input voltage coming from the wall outlet via a voltage selector switch on the back of the unit, and plug your appliance into the outlet on the front of the unit which matches your appliance's required input voltage.
- Can be used in 110-120 volt countries and 220-240 volt countries
- Convert from 220-240 volts to 110-120 volts (step down mode)
- Converts from 110-120 volt to 220-240 volt (step up mode)
- Includes 2 IEC cords (US Grounded and European Schuko)
- On/Off Switch
- Dual fuse protection (120 & 230V)
- Conforms to UL 1012, Certified to CSA std. C22.2 No. 107.1


Krieger ULT850 Professional Grade Step-Up/Step-Down Voltage Transformer (850 Watt Capacity)
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Krieger ULT1700 Professional Grade Step-Up/Step-Down Voltage Transformer (1700 Watt Capacity)
Krieger ULT1700 Professional Grade Step-Up/Step-Down Voltage Transformer (1700 Watt Capacity)

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Availability : Out of stock
Krieger Professional Grade voltage transformers can be used as either a step up transformer or a step down transformer. This professional grade voltage transformer can be used in 110 volt countries and 220 volt countries. It will convert from 220-240 volts to 110-120 volts AND from 110-120 volts to 220-240 volts. Simply select the input voltage coming from the wall outlet via a voltage selector switch on the back of the unit, and plug your appliance into the outlet on the front of the unit which matches your appliance's required input voltage.
- Can be used in 110-120 volt countries and 220-240 volt countries
- Convert from 220-240 volts to 110-120 volts (step down mode)
- Converts from 110-120 volt to 220-240 volt (step up mode)
- Includes 2 IEC cords (US Grounded and European Schuko)
- On/Off Switch
- Dual fuse protection (120 & 230V)
- Conforms to UL 1012, Certified to CSA std. C22.2 No. 107.1


Krieger ULT1700 Professional Grade Step-Up/Step-Down Voltage Transformer (1700 Watt Capacity)
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Krieger ULT600 Professional Grade Step-Up/Step-Down Voltage Transformer (600 Watt Capacity)
Krieger ULT600 Professional Grade Step-Up/Step-Down Voltage Transformer (600 Watt Capacity)

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Availability : In stock
Krieger Professional Grade voltage transformers can be used as either a step up transformer or a step down transformer. This professional grade voltage transformer can be used in 110 volt countries and 220 volt countries. It will convert from 220-240 volts to 110-120 volts AND from 110-120 volts to 220-240 volts. Simply select the input voltage coming from the wall outlet via a voltage selector switch on the back of the unit, and plug your appliance into the outlet on the front of the unit which matches your appliance's required input voltage.
- Can be used in 110-120 volt countries and 220-240 volt countries
- Convert from 220-240 volts to 110-120 volts (step down mode)
- Converts from 110-120 volt to 220-240 volt (step up mode)
- Includes 2 IEC cords (US Grounded and European Schuko)
- On/Off Switch
- Dual fuse protection (120 & 230V)
- Conforms to UL 1012, Certified to CSA std. C22.2 No. 107.1


Krieger ULT600 Professional Grade Step-Up/Step-Down Voltage Transformer (600 Watt Capacity)
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Krieger ULT1150 Professional Grade Step-Up/Step-Down Voltage Transformer (1150 Watt Capacity)
Krieger ULT1150 Professional Grade Step-Up/Step-Down Voltage Transformer (1150 Watt Capacity)

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Save: 26% off
Availability : In stock
Krieger Professional Grade voltage transformers can be used as either a step up transformer or a step down transformer. This professional grade voltage transformer can be used in 110 volt countries and 220 volt countries. It will convert from 220-240 volts to 110-120 volts AND from 110-120 volts to 220-240 volts. Simply select the input voltage coming from the wall outlet via a voltage selector switch on the back of the unit, and plug your appliance into the outlet on the front of the unit which matches your appliance's required input voltage.
- Can be used in 110-120 volt countries and 220-240 volt countries
- Convert from 220-240 volts to 110-120 volts (step down mode)
- Converts from 110-120 volt to 220-240 volt (step up mode)
- Includes 2 IEC cords (US Grounded and European Schuko)
- On/Off Switch
- Dual fuse protection (120 & 230V)
- Conforms to UL 1012, Certified to CSA std. C22.2 No. 107.1


Krieger ULT1150 Professional Grade Step-Up/Step-Down Voltage Transformer (1150 Watt Capacity)
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Krieger ULT850 Professional Grade Step-Up/Step-Down Voltage Transformer (850 Watt Capacity)
Krieger ULT850 Professional Grade Step-Up/Step-Down Voltage Transformer (850 Watt Capacity)

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Save: 28% off
Availability : In stock
Krieger Professional Grade voltage transformers can be used as either a step up transformer or a step down transformer. This professional grade voltage transformer can be used in 110 volt countries and 220 volt countries. It will convert from 220-240 volts to 110-120 volts AND from 110-120 volts to 220-240 volts. Simply select the input voltage coming from the wall outlet via a voltage selector switch on the back of the unit, and plug your appliance into the outlet on the front of the unit which matches your appliance's required input voltage.
- Can be used in 110-120 volt countries and 220-240 volt countries
- Convert from 220-240 volts to 110-120 volts (step down mode)
- Converts from 110-120 volt to 220-240 volt (step up mode)
- Includes 2 IEC cords (US Grounded and European Schuko)
- On/Off Switch
- Dual fuse protection (120 & 230V)
- Conforms to UL 1012, Certified to CSA std. C22.2 No. 107.1


Krieger ULT850 Professional Grade Step-Up/Step-Down Voltage Transformer (850 Watt Capacity)
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Krieger ULT1700 Professional Grade Step-Up/Step-Down Voltage Transformer (1700 Watt Capacity)
Krieger ULT1700 Professional Grade Step-Up/Step-Down Voltage Transformer (1700 Watt Capacity)

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Save: 21% off
Availability : Out of stock
Krieger Professional Grade voltage transformers can be used as either a step up transformer or a step down transformer. This professional grade voltage transformer can be used in 110 volt countries and 220 volt countries. It will convert from 220-240 volts to 110-120 volts AND from 110-120 volts to 220-240 volts. Simply select the input voltage coming from the wall outlet via a voltage selector switch on the back of the unit, and plug your appliance into the outlet on the front of the unit which matches your appliance's required input voltage.
- Can be used in 110-120 volt countries and 220-240 volt countries
- Convert from 220-240 volts to 110-120 volts (step down mode)
- Converts from 110-120 volt to 220-240 volt (step up mode)
- Includes 2 IEC cords (US Grounded and European Schuko)
- On/Off Switch
- Dual fuse protection (120 & 230V)
- Conforms to UL 1012, Certified to CSA std. C22.2 No. 107.1


Krieger ULT1700 Professional Grade Step-Up/Step-Down Voltage Transformer (1700 Watt Capacity)
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Krieger ULT600 Professional Grade Step-Up/Step-Down Voltage Transformer (600 Watt Capacity)
Krieger ULT600 Professional Grade Step-Up/Step-Down Voltage Transformer (600 Watt Capacity)

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Save: 27% off
Availability : In stock
Krieger Professional Grade voltage transformers can be used as either a step up transformer or a step down transformer. This professional grade voltage transformer can be used in 110 volt countries and 220 volt countries. It will convert from 220-240 volts to 110-120 volts AND from 110-120 volts to 220-240 volts. Simply select the input voltage coming from the wall outlet via a voltage selector switch on the back of the unit, and plug your appliance into the outlet on the front of the unit which matches your appliance's required input voltage.
- Can be used in 110-120 volt countries and 220-240 volt countries
- Convert from 220-240 volts to 110-120 volts (step down mode)
- Converts from 110-120 volt to 220-240 volt (step up mode)
- Includes 2 IEC cords (US Grounded and European Schuko)
- On/Off Switch
- Dual fuse protection (120 & 230V)
- Conforms to UL 1012, Certified to CSA std. C22.2 No. 107.1


Krieger ULT600 Professional Grade Step-Up/Step-Down Voltage Transformer (600 Watt Capacity)
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Krieger ULT1150 Professional Grade Step-Up/Step-Down Voltage Transformer (1150 Watt Capacity)
Krieger ULT1150 Professional Grade Step-Up/Step-Down Voltage Transformer (1150 Watt Capacity)

0 Reviews
Save: 26% off
Availability : In stock
Krieger Professional Grade voltage transformers can be used as either a step up transformer or a step down transformer. This professional grade voltage transformer can be used in 110 volt countries and 220 volt countries. It will convert from 220-240 volts to 110-120 volts AND from 110-120 volts to 220-240 volts. Simply select the input voltage coming from the wall outlet via a voltage selector switch on the back of the unit, and plug your appliance into the outlet on the front of the unit which matches your appliance's required input voltage.
- Can be used in 110-120 volt countries and 220-240 volt countries
- Convert from 220-240 volts to 110-120 volts (step down mode)
- Converts from 110-120 volt to 220-240 volt (step up mode)
- Includes 2 IEC cords (US Grounded and European Schuko)
- On/Off Switch
- Dual fuse protection (120 & 230V)
- Conforms to UL 1012, Certified to CSA std. C22.2 No. 107.1


Krieger ULT1150 Professional Grade Step-Up/Step-Down Voltage Transformer (1150 Watt Capacity)
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EA9 Type E/F Travel Plug Adapter for Europe (CEE 7/7 Schuko)
This plug adapter changes the shape of an appliance's plug so that it can plug into a Type F (German Style CEE 7/4) European Schuko wall outlet, or a Type E (French Style CEE 7/5) European Schuko wall outlet.
The receptacle side of the adapter can accept any standard household plug type from any country, except the Type M (South African SABS 1661) plug.
The plug side is a CEE 7/7 hybrid Schuko plug, which is compatible with both the German and French variations of the Schuko wall outlet. Its pins are 4.8mm in diameter, 19mm long and spaced 19mm apart. The plug has both side grounding clips and a receptacle for the male grounding pin found in French Schuko sockets.
Our EA Series plug adapters have recently been completely re-engineered from the inside out. It's the first significant advancement in plug adapter technology in 25 years! The redesigned internal structure makes these plug adapters the only ones on the market that meet IEC 60884-2-5 Amperage Rating / Temperature Rise standards.
Don't know what that means? We'll explain why it's incredibly important. But in the meantime, here's the short answer: It's
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Energizer EN1500 12V DC to 120V AC Power Inverter (1500 Watt Capacity)
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